2011 dodge journey rear suspension diagram

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Rear Suspension, Axle, and Differential Diagram

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What cha doing with it?  

Looking at a cheaper way to replace the entire back end with either 3.92 or 4.10 gears with the mopar LSD from a salvage yard. I just needed to know what I need to get so I don't end up getting screwed. It's about half the price, but haven't decided if I want to go this route yet.  

Unless it is coming out of an '09, you are going to have to fab all the brackets for the rear suspension.  

no questions about it. it MUST be out of a 09' or 10'.  

That's what was suggested by the dealer parts guy if I wanted a cheaper option then spending $1,800+. Go find a '09 or '10 that had only front end damage that was considered wrecked. I know I can pick it all up for $1,200 from a discount parts area but can't beat same parts for $600. Now to wonder if the 12k or 12 month warranty is worth the extra cost.  

where did you find it for 1200  

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214996&chapter=&sectionids=23,0&groupid=10047&subgroupid=60083&make=8&model=Ram%201500&year=2009&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0  

Depending on how hard of an impact, the crush collar that locates the pinion gear could also be damaged. Make sure when you look at the junk yard rear, that you give the pinion a good tug to see if there is any play.  

There's no way it should cost that much to re-gear even with an LSD. Call some local offroad shops and see what they would charge. I had my Grand Cherokee regeared front and rear with an LSD in the front for $800. That included the gears and install kits.  

How long ago was that?I will call arround here local but I bet it is over 1k without the parts.  

It was about 3 years ago, but R&P sets haven't gone up that much. Dealer's will rob you for re-gearing, but offroad shops do it pretty routinely and are really good at it.  

Ya my dealer wants 5k to do the gear swap on my truck for 4.56's.There is noway I will let them touch it for that price.  

Hell I'm getting my rear gear swap "Done Dirt Cheap!" I'm getting a brand new Detroit True Trac for $320 from a friend, a brand new set of Motive 4.56's with master install kit for $140 shipped and the install itself for $250 from a friends gear shop. Not bad for a high performance upgrade from my weak sauce 3.21 open diff combo.  

Wow that is awesome!!! Hook me up bro!! :rck:  

2500 better cover it! LOL, thats nuts  

I will call Chux today and see what place they use.I hope it is't that high but I was just saying the high side would be around 2500.00.I hope not though lol.  

It was mentioned that for us with the 3.21 gears, it's not as simple as replacing the gears and the Diff., the trucks just have a dinky back end with those tiny 3.21 gears. That's why I was looking at swapping out the entire back end. I'm kind of dumb to the way of gears but it seemed a safe bet to do an entire swap.  

I wonder if the carrier is a different size for the 3.21 and 4.11, that could be what he is talking about... any reputable rear end service should have no problem doing it, I paid $600 per axle when I put junkyard dana 44's on my jeep, and that was with ox lockers (a real pita to install).....It really shouldnt cost you more than $600... the only problem I see with the 9.25 is the c-clips, but they are pleanty strong for what these trucks are being used for...I'd say just do the re-gear, and if it requires the next size carrier get an aftermarket LSD....  

??Dinky back end?? Huh? The chrysler 9.25 tear axle is plenty strong. Thats why they've been using it virtually untouched for over 30 years. As for the gear swap its not that big of a deal and shouldn't cost more then $350 for the labor on a 2wd truck.  

You would know better than me. When I brought it up at the dealership they mentioned that it wasn't as easy as replacing the gears and the differential. It took more work than that, but then again it is the dealership.  

My truck is getting the 4.56's and DTT installed as we speak. As far as i or the installer is concerned it's the same as a 02-08.  

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2015 Dodge Journey 4dr SUV

283-horsepower 3.6L V6 6-speed shiftable automatic FWD

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2014 Dodge Journey 4dr SUV

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235-horsepower 3.5L V6 6-speed shiftable automatic FWD

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2009 Dodge Journey

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turbocharged 138hp 2.0L I4 Diesel 6-speed manual FWD

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suspension diagram???????

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Does anyone know where I can see a suspension diagram or pictures with the name of the parts? I need to know how these parts look and where they are exactly; rear, knuckle, lower control arm, tie rod w/ toe bolt, and bearings/hubs. front; inner/outer tie rod ends. thanks in advance  

dannyh86 said: anyone know where i can see a suspension diagram or pictures with the name of the parts? i need to know how these parts look and where the are exactly; rear, knuckle, lower control arm, tie rod w/ toe bolt, and bearings/hubs. front; inner/outter tie rod ends. thanks in advance Click to expand...

Can u send to my phone  

Here are some pics.  

Attachments

More pics....  

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Wow excellent information! :beerchug:  

slip thanks for the info, really great info. really appreciate it  

I've been trying to find a solution to my suspension/steering problem and came upon this old thread, because I am no mechanic and don't know which parts are what. I've recently had coilovers installed, and an issue that's been bugging me prior to the swap are still there, which leads me to believe that whatever parts the coilovers replaced wasn't the source. 1) When I turn my streering wheel, I hear this groaning noise from the outside of the car. I don't think this is normal as it didn't do this when my car was new. What's the cause? 2) When I go over bumps, I hear an old rusted spring bed creeking sound. What's causing this? I've read that there's some parts on the front suspension that are prone to failure in these cars. What are they, and are there any aftermarket solutions? Or did they fix the issue at a certain year? Are any mopar parts like from the SRT interchangeable with the RT? 3) I am getting a harsh steering wheel shake/shudder when braking from high speeds. I don't think it could be my rotors/pads as they are new and I have bedded them in properly and have retorqued the nuts as per recommendations. I've noticed that on one of my wheels, there's an empty spot where a balancing weight may have been on before, but it could have been there from when I first got the wheels and had them balanced. What do you think? Any help would be appreciated. My specs: 2010 Charger R/T AWD  

how cool would it be to have arrows to the bolts with torque specs .......... hint hint  

Subscribed Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App  

Hey slip, how do i remove the lower control arm, i cant find the screw, i see the nut , but the nut turns with the SCREW , is the screw behind the say bar bushing?  

Need help  

Slip hasn't posted here since January 2011. I don't think he will answer.  

Can you help me? Ddaddy  

Dade, front lower control arm? Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App  

Yes front lower control arm, not the tension bar  

The tension strut, commonly none as the lower control arm is easily found. I don't know if you referring to the other ball joint that's in the steering knuckle... If so, you have to replace that whole piece. Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App  

WideBlueEyes said: The tension strut, commonly none as the lower control arm is easily found. I don't know if you referring to the other ball joint that's in the steering knuckle... If so, you have to replace that whole piece. Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App Click to expand...

Can u text my phone  

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