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per 7 giorni

• 20 Minuti  per chiamate effettuate/ricevute

per 30 giorni

• 50 Minuti  per chiamate effettuate/ricevute

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Attiva l’offerta prima di partire per essere subito connesso quando sei all’Estero. Paghi subito il costo di attivazione e poi il costo mensile o settimanale quando la usi nei Paesi di validità. L’offerta si disattiva automaticamente dopo 3 mesi.

Quando sei all’Estero, se finisci prima la tua offerta, puoi farla ripartire nuovamente e sei libero di comunicare quando vuoi.

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Il traffico incluso all’Estero è valido nei seguenti Paesi:

Albania | Bosnia | Montenegro | Macedonia | Serbia

Scegli l'offerta più adatta a te

Informazioni utili, come attivare.

COME ATTIVARE Tre modalità per attivare l’offerta: - l'App Windtre, scaricala al seguente link  www.windtre.it/W3 - chiamando il 159  - recandoti in un WINDTRE Store. L'attivazione dell'opzione e il contestuale addebito verranno confermati con un SMS. Tutti gli importi si intendono IVA inclusa. Ricorda che attivando il servizio si accettano le Condizioni Generali di Contratto relative ai servizi di Telecomunicazione Wind Tre attualmente in vigore.

WINDTRE Ricorda

COSTO DI ATTIVAZIONE DELL'OFFERTA Nel momento in cui si attiva l’offerta, viene addebitato il costo di attivazione pari a 1,99€. Il pagamento del costo di attivazione e il costo dell’opzione TRAVEL è su credito residuo, anche se la tua offerta nazionale prevede un addebito su conto corrente/carta di credito. L’offerta si disattiva in automatico dopo 3 mesi dall’attivazione. All’interno di questi 3 mesi, il primo evento di traffico generato all’estero, addebita il costo dell’opzione e avvia attivando la TRAVEL scelta contenente il traffico voce, DATI e SMS (dove previsti) che potrai utilizzare nel Paese di destinazione (ospitante). Assicurati di avere credito sufficiente per l'addebito dell'intero importo ed un credito residuo positivo, altrimenti non potrai usufruire del traffico incluso. Ricorda che se esaurisci anche solo uno dei componenti del traffico incluso prima della scadenza settimanale o mensile della TRAVEL scelta (minuti, GIGA o SMS se previsti) si applicheranno le tariffe base del Paese ospitante, a meno che non scegli di usufruire anticipatamente del servizio RESTART, per riavviare l’opzione TRAVEL al medesimo costo. Al termine della settimana o del mese relativo alla durata della TRAVEL scelta, non ci sarà un nuovo addebito a meno che non avvenga un nuovo evento di traffico generato nel Paese ospitante. Nel caso in cui cambi Paese ospitante, dovrai attivare una nuova TRAVEL specifica (se prevista) per il nuovo Paese dove ti stai recando. Nel caso in cui nel nuovo Paese in cui ti stai recando non siano previste TRAVEL, si applicheranno le tariffe base del Paese ospitante, puoi verificare i costi al link windtre.it/offerte-all-estero/tariffe-base-mondo.L’opzione TRAVEL scelta non è compatibile con le altre offerte per l’estero.L’attivazione di una nuova TRAVEL (anche se della stessa tipologia ma con durata diversa (settimanale o mensile), automaticamente disattiva la TRAVEL in uso.Puoi verificare la data di disattivazione e il traffico ancora disponibile sull'App WINDTRE.

RESTART Nel caso in cui termini il traffico incluso prima della scadenza dell’opzione (componente dati, voce, SMS se previsti, oppure una sola componente del bundle ad esempio i GIGA), con il servizio Restart puoi anticipare il rinnovo inviando un SMS al 4011 con testo RESTART SI. L'eventuale residuo del bundle non utilizzato, scade improrogabilmente e si potrà usufruire nuovamente dell’intero traffico, incluso nell’opzione attivata.

TRAFFICO VOCE   Il bundle voce sarà valido per chiamate effettuate o generate verso il paese in cui ti trovi e verso l’Italia, sarà inoltre valido per le chiamate ricevute da tutte le destinazioni.

INFO ROAMING EXTRA UE Ti ricordiamo, quando sei in Roaming all’Estero, di anteporre sempre al numero chiamato il prefisso internazionale sia per le chiamate locali che per le chiamate internazionali. Per effettuare chiamate con tecnologia VoLTE è necessario che il terminale sia compatibile e la funzionalità sia attiva sulla SIM. La funzionalità VoLTE non è attivabile se sulla tua SIM sono attivi i seguenti servizi: autoricarica, VPN (Jambala) e Dual SIM. Ti consigliamo, prima di partire, di verificare i dettagli del servizio di Roaming VoLTE e sul suo utilizzo nel Paese di destinazione nella pagina della  copertura internazionale . Per verificare il bonus residuo relativo all’offerta invia un SMS, con testo SALDO, al 4155. 

VALIDITÀ E RINNOVO OPZIONE WEEKLY L’opzione settimanale (WEEKLY), ha una durata di 7 giorni e scade alla stessa ora del settimo giorno in cui si è verificato il primo evento di traffico all’estero. Dopo il settimo giorno, nel caso si dovesse effettuare un nuovo evento di traffico all'estero, verrà addebbitato nuovamento il costo dell'opzione. Verifica la data di disattivazione e il traffico ancora disponibile sull'App WINDTRE. 

VALIDITÀ E RINNOVO OPZIONE MONTHLY L’opzione mensile (MONTHLY), ha una durata di 30 giorni e scade alla stessa ora del trentesimo giorno in cui si è verificato il primo evento di traffico all’estero. Dopo il trentesimo giorno, nel caso si dovesse effettuare un nuovo evento di traffico all'estero, verrà addebbitato nuovamento il costo dell'opzione. Verifica la data di disattivazione e il traffico ancora disponibile sull'App WINDTRE.

SUPERAMENTO SOGLIA Al superamento delle soglie di traffico nei Paesi di validità vengono applicati i costi consultabili alla pagina  Tariffe base nel mondo . Se pensi di non utilizzare la connessione internet all'Estero e non vuoi avere addebiti inaspettati ti consigliamo di disattivare la connessione dati in roaming dalle impostazioni del tuo smartphone o tablet.

Il traffico incluso all’Estero è valido nei seguenti Paesi Balcani: Albania, Bosnia, Montenegro, Macedonia, Serbia.

DISATTIVAZIONE L’opzione può essere disattivata inviando un SMS al numero 4033 con testo NO TRAVEL. Il traffico incluso nell'opzione se non utilizzato nel periodo di validità, scade improrogabilmente. 

ESCLUSIONE ZONE I costi applicati si intendono IVA Inclusa. Al momento e fino a diversa comunicazione, sono escluse dal roaming voce e dati, i seguenti paesi:  Bahamas, Belize, Burundi, Comoros, Fiji, Guam, Iran, Libia, Maldive, Mauritania, Namibia, Sudan, Togo e Zimbabwe. Sono esclusi solo dal traffico roaming dati i seguenti paesi: Andorra, Angola, Etiopia, Gibuti.

Condizioni d'Uso del Servizio e limitazioni di traffico

WINDTRE, come previsto nelle  Condizioni Generali di Contratto  all’art.3.2, si riserva di limitare temporaneamente la velocità della connessione dati ai Clienti che presentino modalità di utilizzo tali da pregiudicare le prestazioni della rete stessa. Ciò può accadere durante l’utilizzo di Servizi che impiegano in maniera intensa le risorse di rete e/o in zone con un numero particolarmente elevato di connessioni.

Il traffico (voce e/o dati) è  illimitato salvo uso contrario a buona fede e correttezza o per finalità diverse dall’uso personale secondo quanto previsto dall’art. 6 delle  Condizioni Generali di Contratto . In caso di uso improprio o che superi i ragionevoli limiti di utilizzo a scopo personale da parte del cliente, WINDTRE avrà facoltà di sospendere il Servizio, in tutto o in parte, previo preavviso, o sostituire il piano sottoscritto. Il Cliente avrà facoltà di recedere con effetto immediato senza applicazione di penali.

Tali limiti di riferimento sono:

Per tutte le offerte che includono Voce ed SMS  1. traffico uscente giornaliero per SIM non superiore a 160 minuti e/o 200 SMS/MMS 2. traffico uscente mensile per SIM non superiore a 1250 minuti e/o 2000 SMS/MMS 3. traffico (minuti e/o SMS/MMS) uscente giornaliero/mensile per SIM indirizzato verso altri operatori non superiore al 60% del traffico uscente complessivo e comunque non superiore ad 50% del traffico vs mobile complessivo 4. traffico (minuti e/o SMS/MMS) uscente giornaliero/mensile per SIM indirizzato verso un singolo operatore mobile diverso da WINDTRE non superiore al 40% del traffico uscente complessivo e comunque non superiore ad 30% del traffico vs mobile complessivo 5. traffico (minuti e/o SMS/MMS) uscente giornaliero/mensile per SIM indirizzato verso la propria rete di utenze WINDTRE non sia superiore al 80% del traffico uscente complessivo 6. traffico giornaliero uscente o entrante finalizzato ad autoricarica non superiore a due ore di conversazione ed a 50 SMS o MMS

Per tutte le offerte che includono Voce, SMS o dati illimitato Non si applicano i parametri 1, 2, 3, 4 e 5 di cui sopra e si presume personale l’utilizzo del Servizio che rispetta i seguenti parametri: 7. traffico giornaliero voce o SMS uscente complessivo verso altri operatori non superiore al 60% del traffico totale voce o SMS uscente. 8. rapporto tra traffico giornaliero voce o sms uscente verso altri operatori e traffico voce o SMS entrante da altri operatori non superiore a 3 (tre); ferma restando l’assenza di alcun automatismo nell’applicazione delle cautele previste per il loro superamento.

Non si applicano i parametri 1, 2, 3, 4 e 5 di cui sopra e si presume non personale, ferma restando l’assenza di alcun automatismo nell’applicazione delle cautele previste per il loro superamento, l’utilizzo del Servizio dati illimitato che superi i seguenti parametri: 1. volumi di traffico mensili anomali e almeno superiori a 5 volte rispetto alla media di consumo di clienti con offerte omogenee o analoghe; 2. volumi di traffico dati superiore per tre mesi consecutivi al volume del traffico medio mensile di clienti con offerte omogenee o analoghe. Ricordiamo che il dettaglio del traffico effettuato è reso disponibile da Area Clienti fisso/mobile e da App WINDTRE. Il traffico ricevuto può essere verificato mediante le funzionalità del proprio Smartphone.

A first-time guide to Albania

Jun 30, 2024 • 6 min read

Here's what every first-time visitor needs to know ahead of a trip to Albania © DaveLongMedia / Getty Images

Albania has never been more popular with travelers than it is now. Joel Balsam, author of the Albania chapter in the new Western Balkans guidebook , shares his expert tips for exploring this singular country.

Is it just me or does it feel like everyone is talking about traveling to Albania ? It’s been like that for a few years, and it’s easy to see why.

TikTok-adored Adriatic beaches with turquoise-painted water line the southwestern coast, the Albanian Alps provide perfect hiking terrain, there’s amazing ancient architecture, and Albania is far cheaper than nearby Croatia, Greece and Italy.

But for every positive pitch about why you should book a trip to Albania right this instant, there are its detractors – some seem to think that Albanian gangs elsewhere in Europe represent the average person in Albania. In short: they don’t, and the locals you’ll encounter in Albania are honest, curious and welcoming.

Here’s what you should know for your first time visiting Albania.

When should I go to Albania?

Europe’s obsession with lazy beach days and cheap flights make Albania’s best accessible beaches, Ksamil and Saranda, good and truly swarming from June through September. If you want a little more peace and quiet, plan a visit in May, though the sea will be chilly. Better yet, go between September and December, which are probably the best months to visit Albania overall as the weather is still lovely and there are fewer visitors.

If visiting in winter, stick to Tirana , the capital city, where you can warm up in its many atmospheric restaurants and bars like Komiteti , which serves many different flavors of rakija  (fruit brandy). Activities in much of the rest of the country shut during winter.

How much time should I spend in Albania?

If you only have a weekend, fly to Corfu in Greece and take the ferry over to Saranda to see the Albanian Riviera . Or land in Tirana to enjoy the capital’s terrific food and historic sights.

If you have time for a road trip, you can cover Albania highlights like Tirana, a beach on the coast and one of Berat or Gjirokastra in a week. Allow for more time if you want to hike in the Accursed Mountains or if you plan to take public transport – Albanian buses are notoriously unreliable and slow.

Is it easy to get in and around Albania?

There’s just one international transport hub in Albania at Tirana International Airport. But if you want to visit the southwestern beaches it’s better to fly to Corfu and take the short ferry ride over.

Once inside Albania, getting around is, sadly, very challenging. Communist-era furgon shared minibuses that run between towns belong in a museum and don’t have consistent timetables. They also have a bad habit of breaking down.

Driving is more convenient, though it comes with plenty of warnings. Many complain about Albania’s aggressive drivers and speedy sports cars (likely to be a Volkswagen or Mercedes). Personally, I don’t find driving in Albania to be that bad, especially on the main highways – and you really should stick to the highways as country roads aren’t always well maintained.

Hiring a car is also a headache, with international brands charging a premium and only maintaining offices at Tirana airport. Local car hire companies are cheaper and can be found outside the airport, but you’ll have to pay cash or bank transfer, meaning you won’t be able to use insurance protections from your credit card if it comes with those.

Top things to do in Albania

Enjoy albania's beautiful coastline.

You may have seen it on Instagram – now’s your chance to swim from Albania’s picture-perfect beaches. Ksamil, the country’s most popular beach, is indeed gorgeous, but more expensive than anywhere in the country and stupidly crowded in summer – there isn’t even room to put down a beach towel. Travel up the coastline to find quieter beaches in and around Himara and Dhërmi and take a boat tour to “secret” beaches inaccessible to cars. 

If you do go to Ksamil, don’t you dare miss Butrint , a jaw-dropping Greek and Roman city.

Bar hop in Tirana's Blloku neighborhood

During Albania’s communist era from 1946–1991, Tirana’s Blloku neighborhood was blocked off to the public as a private residence for party officials. When Albania’s democratic revolution finally toppled the regime, the gates to Blloku swung open and the neighborhood has since become a place to see and be seen. Hip cafes and bars with plant-filled terraces line the streets, and there are plenty of cool clubs as well. My personal favorite is Radio Bar .

Visit the "museum towns" of Berat and Gjirokastra

For amazing architecture, travel to Albania’s UNESCO-recognized “museum towns”. In Berat, explore a city-sized castle atop the hill and wind through tiny stone alleyways. Don’t miss the city’s prized windows, which are best viewed from across the Osum River.

In Gjirokastra, the architecture is no less remarkable. Walk up the hill (you’ll be doing a lot of that here), to see ancient homes with heavy stone tile roofs and its impressive castle. Underneath the city, wander through communist-era bunkers – there’s a huge one beside the town hall.

My favorite thing to do in Albania

What truly won me over in Albania is the country’s mountainous north, starting with Shkodra . The artsy student city is easily the most bike-friendly place I’ve seen in Eastern Europe and a great base for exploring nearby peaks.

In three days, you can take a ferry to Valbona , hike a section of the Peaks of the Balkans trail linking Albania with Kosovo and Montenegro and jump into cobalt “blue eye” ponds in Theth . Accommodations in Shkodra can organize the circuit for you.

How much money do I need for Albania?

Few places in Albania accept card payments. You can take out local currency, lek, from ATMs, with a steep transaction fee or exchange cash at money changers. At the time of writing, €1 equals 100 lekë.

• Hostel room: 1500 lekë
• Basic room for two: 5000 lekë per night
• Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): 5000 lekë per night
• Ticket for a bus in Tirana: 40 lekë
• Inter-city bus: prices vary. A trip between Saranda and Tirana is 1600 lekë
• Coffee: 100 to 200 lekë
• Sandwich: 600 lekë
• Dinner for two: 2000 lekë
• Beer/pint at the bar: 300 lekë

Is Albania safe?

Contrary to what many say, Albania is safe. Pickpocketing barely happens, and crime associated with Albanian organized crime elsewhere in Europe has little to do with the average traveler’s experience.

Is Albania religious?

Most Albanians identify as Muslim, but you’ll rarely see locals display their faith in public with traditional clothing. You will, however, see plenty of mosques as well as a lot of churches. 

Despite Albania appearing quite secular, it’s still respectful to dress conservatively outside of Tirana and the beaches. If entering a popular mosque, there should be extra clothing to cover up during your visit.

Is it worth visiting Kosovo while in Albania?

A visit to Kosovo, Albania’s neighbor to the east, is easy, and border guards will rarely even stop you to check your passport. The two countries are strongly linked, with the vast majority of people in both identifying as ethnic Albanian – their division is a result of border lines drawn by Western European powers.

In Kosovo, you’ll find prettier mountain trails along with historic Prizren, with its many gorgeous places of worship and castles. Also, check out burgeoning Pristina , which looks more like a Western European city by the day.

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HOW TO SPEND 10 DAYS IN ALBANIA – ITINERARY

ALBANIA ITINERARY FOR 10 DAYS

Table of Contents

Beautiful Albania! I had Albania on my radar for a while but always had to postpone my trip to this country t ucked away in southeastern Europe’s Balkan Peninsula. But I finally went. And fell in love. 

I got to spend about two weeks in Albania and if you are looking for an exciting Albania itinerary, then read on. In this post, I will share many travel tips on how to spend 10 days in Albania plus many travel tips for your trip.

And this post is all about the best Albania itinerary for 10 days.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. This means I might earn a small commission when you buy a product/service via my link (at no extra cost to you). More about it  here .

TRAVEL TIPS FOR YOUR ALBANIA ITINERARY

So, here are some of the most important travel tips I can give you for your itinerary.

HOW MANY DAYS IN ALBANIA?

I stayed about two weeks, but I think you can see the most beautiful places in 10 days in Albania. Two weeks would allow you to add 2-3 more places to your itinerary but even with ten days, you get to see the many different sides the country has to offer. If you have only one week, then you can just skip a few places but you will not regret adding a few extra days in Albania.

HOW TO GET TO ALBANIA

PLANE:  If you arrive via plane, you will most likely arrive in Tirana – the main international airport , so I only focus on that airport. If you arrive in Tirana, you can easily take a bus and get to the city center by bus. Buses run frequently, and there is no need to book train tickets in advance.

If you arrive late at night or very early in the morning, you might want to take a taxi to the city center. Alternatively, you can also pick up your rental car here at the airport. There are many rental companies -just outside the airport.

This is what I did: I arrived quite late at night and thus booked a night at this hotel near the airport. They had a free shuttle bus and picked me up – the next morning they dropped me off at the rental company at the airport and then only my Albania road trip started.

CAR/BUS : Many visitors also come from neighboring countries. There are international buses, e.g. from Kosovo or Macedonia –  riding them might be an experience in themselves (at least that is my experience) but safe and you can get to Tirana and start your trip also from there.

10 DAYS IN ALBANIA – HOW TO GET AROUND

Following this itinerary, I highly suggest renting a car. I checked out options for public transportation but hate to say it but public transportation in Albania is not that far advanced to allow you to see these places within that short amount of time (yes, 10 days is not a lot). 

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION FOR AN ALBANIA ITINERARY

Public transportation in Albania is still developing , and it varies in quality and availability in different parts of the country.

Major cities in Albania, such as Tirana, have public transportation networks, including bus and minibus services. However, outside of these cities, public transportation options can be limited. Additionally, while schedules are typically displayed at bus stations, departures tend to be based on a flexible, “when full” model, so it may be necessary to factor time into your travel plans.

Following this Albania itinerary it will be almost impossible (if not impossible) if you just use public transport.

DRIVING IN ALBANIA

I have driven in many countries in Europe and overall can say, that driving a car CAN be a good idea if you are an experienced driver. Driving behavior on the roads in Albania can be somewhat unpredictable.

Overall, driving in Albania is an experience – from being frustrated to being in awe, I experienced all that while driving there. There are some new roads and streets – they are fine – but there are also many streets in terrible condition . This is why a 300km drive will take 7-8 hours (without the breaks). 

Stick to the speed limit (they take it very seriously there) – there is quite a lot of police on the road. I was never stopped by them but I know from friends who were stopped several times – if you do not drive too fast and have the car papers/license, you should not worry about that though.

RENT A CAR IN ALBANIA

Do thorough research in advance, familiarize yourself with local road rules, and ensure that you have comprehensive insurance coverage to protect against any unforeseen incidents.

I rented my car via this site.  While I most often drive in my own van/car, it was not possible for this trip, so I used the site to find a good deal. If I rent cars, I always buy full insurance, so it costs more but it covers all costs in case something happens. After this positive experience, I really do recommend finding your rental car there.

GET YOUR RENTAL CAR HERE

10 DAYS IN ALBANIA – PLACES TO VISIT

Okay, without further ado, here is how I would create my 10-day Albania itinerary. 

DAY 1 – TIRANA

Drenched in culture, history, and distinctive architecture, Tirana is a fantastic starting point for your Albanian itinerary. It enjoys a central location surrounded by the Dajti mountains and hills to the east and a valley overlooking the Adriatic Sea to the west.

Tirana’s lively and fun atmosphere is perhaps best experienced by strolling through Skanderbeg Square in the center of the city. It’s Tirana’s focal point and home to places like the Et’hem Bey Mosque and Skanderbeg Monument as well as several restaurants.

Bunk’Art 1 sits on the outskirts of town and was initially intended to be a hideout in the event of a nuclear attack. Today, it’s now a museum detailing Albania’s history through conceptual art, preserved rooms, and eerie sound effects. This was probably one of my favorite activities in Tirana.

Tip: If you’re a history buff, consider this communism history tour which includes a tour of several museums and landmarks.

• TRAVEL TIME TIRANA – BERAT: About 2 hours (100 km)

WHERE TO STAY IN TIRANA

DAY 2 – BERAT

Berat is set in the middle of the nation  and is home to stunning buildings, scenic natural surroundings, and vibrant culture.

Berat is often referred to as “ The Town of a Thousand Windows” . This nickname is due to the gorgeous sandstone houses with antique window frames perched side-by-side on a hilltop overlooking the city.

Berat Castle is one of its most iconic landmarks, an ancient fortress with roots dating back to the fourth century . Within its walls, you will find old Byzantine churches mixed in with ruins from other periods. Given its hillside location, I loved the  panoramic views of the city and its surrounding scenic landscapes.

You can also enjoy a view of the city along the Osumi River . Also by the stream, you’ll find Dimal where remnants date back to 200 BC.

There are a few museums   – the best one might be the National Ethnographic Museum , an 18th-century building that details how life has changed since Berat’s beginnings. However, given your limited time, you might have to prioritize what you want to do in Berat.

TIP: The famous Blue Eyes are a pair of otherworldly water springs in Albania, one in the north and one in the south. The one in the south is beautiful – but not as stunning as the one in the north, in my opinion. With only 10 days in Albania, I would skip this one – it is just quite a detour from Berat, and remember the roads of Albania make distances even longer.

• TRAVE TIME BERAT – GJIROKASTER: Almost 3 hours (180 km)

WHERE TO STAY IN BERAT

DAY 3: GJIROKASTER

Situated on a hillside in the south of Albania lies Gjirokastёr, fondly referred to by locals as “the City of Stones”. This ancient town perfectly illustrates the country’s well-preserved Ottoman architecture and rich history and was one of my highlights in Albania.

Gorgeous cobblestone streets wind their way to the city’s most dominant feature – Gjirokastёr Castle. This eerie 13th-century fortress was initially a communist regime prison. However, it now contains many interesting and unusual artifacts. Inside the castle are two museums, an arsenal collection, crumbling ruins to inspect, and many more unusual communist-era relics.

I loved exploring the Gjirokastër Bazaar, which features Ottoman-style architecture throughout, where I did some great shopping for new and second-hand treasures and souvenirs.

Gjirokastër is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful towns on the Balkan Peninsula. It was my favorite town as it is livelier than Berat, so I highly recommend making this a must-see spot. 

• TRAVE TIME  GJIROKASTER – HIMARE: Almost 3 hours (180 km)

WHERE TO STAY IN GJROKASTER

DAY 4 AND 5: ALBANIAN RIVIERA

The Albanian Riviera is a popular seaside destination. The coastline along the Riviera features rocky mountains, white sand, and clear blue waters. As such, it’s a paradise for beachgoers. 

Check out this guide to help you plan what to pack for Europe in the summer . There are a couple of places you can add to your Albania itinerary when it comes to the Albanian Riviera.

The stunning coastal town of Himarё was originally a quiet fishing village. But, it has steadily grown into a popular beach holiday destination. There is a lot of natural beauty in the area, from secret coves and golden beaches to crystal-clear turquoise waters ideal for swimming.

Himarё is generally less crowded than neighboring Ksamil, which makes it a great spot if you are looking for relaxation and tranquillity. I visited in October, so it was too cold for a beach vacation, but if you want to spend time in the water, then you might only be able to visit one town at the Riviera.

TIP: If you do not mind driving, you can also visit Ksamil, which is located a bit more south.

WHERE TO STAY IN HIMARE

Rea Boutique Hotel

Ksamil is a gem of the Albanian seaside with its picturesque beaches and fun water activities. These include jet skiing, kayaking, paddleboarding, and speed boat rides. However, the most idyllic experience is swimming to one of the three stunning islands a short distance from the shoreline.

The town is also known for its vibrant nightlife, especially during the summer months (July to September). Its promenade is full of vendors selling local produce and souvenirs. 

As mentioned above, I visited in the fall and it was much quieter and too cold to spend time in the water, so I did not spend much time here.

• TRAVEL TIME HIMARE – THETH: About 7 hours (a bit less than 400 km)

DAY 6: THETH

It will be a long drive – from the Albanian Riveria, it is time to head to the north. And believe me – this is heaven. Beautiful. Stunning. Jaw-dropping. Gorgeous as Switzerland.

Up in Albania’s northern reaches is the tiny mountain village of Theth . I consider this to be one of the most stunning destinations in the country. It has only a handful of residents and has the magnificent Albanian Alps in its surroundings. This makes it look like a village out of a fairytale. And it is not only the village – it is the whole region.

The traditional houses in Theth feature stone walls and wooden roofs, adding to the charming scenery. Its most iconic landmark is the small stone church with its astonishingly beautiful backdrop. This quaint, picture-perfect village is one of Europe ‘s best-kept secrets.

Stunning waterfalls and a dramatic canyon await in the surrounding Theth National Park . The park has two fantastic hiking trails leading you to various picturesque viewing points before meeting up at the stunning Grunas waterfall .  Another can’t-miss sight here is the Church of Theth. It’s a small building with an awe-inspiring backdrop of mountains and lush greenery.

Personally, this area has been one of my favorites, and if you are into mountains, then you will adore it, too.

• TRAVEL TIME THETH VILLAGE TO BLUE EYE: About 30 minutes

DAY 7: NORTHERN BLUE EYE

Similar to the Southern Blue Eye, this natural spring water pool with magnificent blue colors is a breathtaking sight. What sets the Northern Blue Eye apart is the beautiful small waterfall feeding into it and the many scenic hiking trails around it.

Jagged mountain peaks and a deep river valley surround the pool, which adds even more beauty to the picture-perfect scenery. Nature enthusiasts will enjoy the natural landscapes, wildlife, and variety of bird species that frequent the area.  The Northern Blue Eye is about four miles from Theth Village.

There is an easy hiking trail that starts in the village and leads to the spring. If you’re brave enough to endure its cold temperatures, you’re free to jump in and swim in the azure waters.

I do believe it is so worth hiking up there – there were several people along the hike selling some drinks and snacks.

Then it is time to go to my most, absolute favorite place in Albania.

• TRAVEL TIME THETH VILLAGE TO VALBONA: About 6,5 hours (250 km)

DAY 8 AND 9: VALBONA VALLEY

Valbona Valley is a stunning natural area in Albania’s northern region. It is part of Valbona Valley National Park, established to protect the region’s diverse ecosystem and natural beauty.

Nestled within the valley lies the tiny village of Valbona. It has a long tradition of folk music and dance celebrated with many local festivals that take place throughout the year. It is also home to several ancient churches and monasteries, which offer a glimpse into the region’s rich history and cultural heritage. 

One of its main attractions is the Valbona Pass, a mountain pass that offers astonishing views of the surrounding landscape. It is particularly popular among hikers, and you can see the peaks of the Accursed Mountains and the Adriatic Sea in the distance. Many people hike from Valbona to Theth – this takes about 6-8 hours one way. While I wanted to do the hike, I just did not know how to organize it.

This was another absolute highlight of my Albania itinerary. If I were to visit Albania again, I would make sure to revisit this gorgeous area.

• TRAVEL TIME VALBONA – TIRANA: About 5 hours (265 km)

WHERE TO STAY IN VALBONE

DAY 10: RETURN TO TIRANA

It is time to say goodbye to the stunning part of Albania and head back to Tirana. The travel time is about 5 hours, so you might have some time left on your last day in Albania to explore the vibrant city of Tirana.

Make sure to leave on time and consider any possible delays, so you do not miss your flight.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON THE BEST ITINERARY FOR ALBANIA IN 10 DAYS

From its stunning coastlines to mountainous scenery, many castles, and archaeological sites, Albania is an upcoming holiday destination. Its affordable prices and lovely climate make it a great choice for a European adventure.

After spending a lot of time in Central Europe, especially in Switzerland , it was amazing to see that the beauty here is similarly stunning and it did not cost me a fortune to dine out or do certain activities.

And with 10 days in Albania, I saw some of the most beautiful places. Just keep in mind that things in Albania might still be a bit unorganized at times but the beautiful scenery, friendly locals, and budget-friendly activities make up for all that.

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Home > Epic One Week In Albania Itinerary: 7 Day Road Trip 

Epic One Week In Albania Itinerary: 7 Day Road Trip 

Written by our local expert Guru

Written by a local specialist we know and trust to bring you the most up-to-date travel information.

This is the best Albania itinerary. We list how you can spend 7 days in Albania. Where to go, what to see, and how long to stay in each place. 

Skip Ahead To My Advice Here!

Albania Road Trip Itinerary

Albania should be on top of your list if you are looking for an affordable, offbeat summer destination that combines pristine nature, enchanting castles, idyllic beaches, and recent history together!

Singing cicadas in pine trees, turquoise water, friendly people, and some of the Balkans’ best food —this post will give you ideas on how to spend seven days in this (wrongfully) underrated country!

Albania is a small mountainous country in Southeast Europe that belongs  to the Balkans . It has access to the Adriatic and Ionian coastlines and a Muslim majority. Furthermore, the country’s only Nobel Prize winner (born in the now-capital of Macedonia) , Mother Teresa, was Albanian!

Hiring a rental car is the best option to get the most out of one week in Albania, especially if you like to explore places and want a total road trip. Prices start from as low as 20 Euro per day and include insurance. 

The Albanian public transport system is another option if you are more money-conscious (& adventurous). You mainly find buses and furgons (shared minibusses) that work reasonably well, connecting most cities with each other.

Book your car rental in Albania here.

This 1 week Albania itinerary will provide distances and timings for both options.

One Week Itinerary For Albania

Let us help you make your Albania travel itinerary action-packed and enjoyable.

Experience Diverse Tirana

Tirana, Albania’s capital, is a refreshing city with a mix of colorful Ottoman architecture, street markets, and a hip food scene. Walking within the city center is easy, and there is enough to explore for at least 2-3 days! Many of Tirana’s sights are within close proximity to each other.

How To Get Into Tirana

Tirana can be easily reached by plane from every major European city. The international airport is well-connected and is only 17 km from the city center . A shuttle bus (called Rinas Express) drops you off in the middle of the city. The ride takes roughly 30 minutes and costs 250 leks (2 euros).

Alternatively, you can take a taxi for 2500 lek (20 euros), which would take around 20 – 25 minutes, or get your rental car from the airport.

Tip: Bring some  cash in Euros to pay for the fare and change it later in the city rather than at the airport.

Highlights Of Tirana For Your Albania Itinerary

For a complete list of what to do and see in Tirana, see here . These are my must-see sights, and we suggest you add them to your itinerary in Albania. 

Skanderbeg Square

The central plaza in the center of Tirana covers an area of 40.000 sq. m. and houses many major sights of the city, including the National Opera, the Palace of Culture, the National Historical Museum, the famous Clock Tower, and the City Hall. Join a free walking tour to learn about Albanian history from the source!

Bunk’Art Museum

If you ever wanted to visit a real bunker, you have the chance to do so in Tirana. The Bunk’Art museum is a highlight when visiting the city. Converted from a Cold War bunker, it spreads over 3000 sq meters underground. It lets you discover dark tunnels, private chambers, and exhibitions of contemporary art.

Take the City Centre – Porcelan bus line near the Clock Tower.

Et’hem Bey Mosque

A stunning city landmark, the little Et’hem Bey Mosque depicts waterfalls, trees, and other motifs not usually shown in Islamic art.

Where To Stay In Tirana

Situated in an old 1930s-era villa, Padam Hotel is one of Tirana’s most stylish boutique hotels, with one of the Balkan’s best restaurants on site. For a social and cheap stay, opt for Trip’n Hostel near Skanderbeg Square.

For a full list of places to stay in Tirana, check here.

Where to eat in tirana.

No itinerary for Albania would be complete without information on where to eat.

For some of the luxurious Albanian cuisine sourced directly from small farmers, head to Mullixhiu. Enjoy panoramic views of the town from a rotating restaurant at The Sky Bar, and make sure to try Rakija , Albania’s national drink! If you are after a cheap, traditional meal, go to Oda – Traditional Albanian Cuisine and try their stuffed peppers !

Check here for a full list of our favorite places to eat and drink in Tirana.

How to get out of tirana.

After your week in Albania, the most convenient way to leave town is by rental car . Tirana has no central bus station yet, but three terminals are distributed throughout the city.

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Day trip to historical shkodër.

Tirana – Shkodër: 1 hour 50 minutes by car | 2 hours by bus

One of the oldest cities in Europe, Shkodër is a real gem that quickly enchants you with its cultural heritage. Many poets, artists, musicians, and photographers were born there, serving as the gateway to the Albanian Alps .

Get Into Shkodër

Get settled into your rental car and make your way up north early in the morning. Buses from Tirana towards Shkodër leave roughly every hour and cost around 500 leks (4 euros). Head to Zogu I Zi, and you’ll find the furgon bus stop nearby.

Highlights of Shkodër

Rozafa castle.

The Rozafa Castle is a special place and a must-see when in Shkodër—a legend accompanying it that a woman had to be sacrificed to finish it.

Price: 200 leks (1.50 euro)

Lake Skadar

On a sunny day, hire a bike to cycle along the shores of the beautiful Lake Skadar . It’s a great half-day trip that leads you past fishing villages and carpet weavers and rewards you with the best scenic views!

Price: 9 euros | Duration: 3.5 hours

Venice Art Mask Factory

If you are after something very unique, go and visit the Venice Art Mask Factory. It has the most diverse and magnificent collection of Venetian masks! Each mask is a unique piece of art that went through the hands of 12 to 13 professionals. Just stunning!

Where To Eat In Shkodër

Settled in a beautiful old villa, Vila Bekteshi offers outdoor seating and outstanding traditional food . For some tasty, reasonably priced seafood, head to Rozafa Sea Food and try their octopus!

Tirana To Berat

Tirana – Berat: 1 hour 45 minutes (123km) by car | 2 hours 15 minutes by bus

To continue your journey towards Berat, take a bus from the Terminali i Autobusave të Veriut dhe Jugut for around 500 leks (4 euro). Berat, “The Town of a Thousand Windows,” as it’s lovingly called, is an absolute  must-visit . A prime example of Albanian architecture, Berat is a UNESCO world heritage site over 2,400 years old.

How To Get Into Berat

Berat: Take a bus from Terminali i Autobusave të Veriut dhe Jugut for around 500 leks (4 euros) to Terminali i Autobuzave të Jugt for buses going to the North and South of Albania. They regularly leave towards Berat and the coast for around 400 leks (3.25 euros).

The bus will stop at Terminali i Autobuzave Berat, from which you will take another local bus to the center.

Highlights Of Berat

Berat castle.

Towering over the city, Berat Castle (or the Citadel of Berat) is a well-preserved fortress with many Ottoman mosques and Byzantine churches. You get the city’s best panoramic views and the Osum River from the courtyard.

Unlike other castles, there is still a fully functioning town inside the castle! One with houses, bars, restaurants, churches, and museums. Don’t miss this one!

Price: 300 leks (2.45 euro)

Mangalem Area

Mangalem, a traditionally Muslim area, lies at the bottom of Berat Castle. It’s most famous for its three mosques and the Ethnographic Museum, which features artifacts from the Ottoman period.

Tip: For the perfect photo opportunity of Mangalem’s white Ottoman houses, head over the bridge into the Gorica area.

Where To Stay In Berat

For a cheap stay in a 300-year-old UNESCO house with many original features, book a night in Berat Backpackers. If staying a night in the castle intrigues you, book a room in the traditional Hotel Klea.

For a full list of places to stay in Berat, check here.

Where to eat in berat.

A unique dining experience, Homemade Food Lili is a restaurant run from the owner’s family home. There are only 3-5 tables, so make sure to arrive early – it’s worth it! For a wallet-friendly option serving vegan options , head to Temi Albanian Food.

Adventure Day Trip To Osum Canyon In Çorovodë

Berat – Çorovodë: 1 hour by car

Çorovodë is not only a convenient stopover on your way to the Albanian Riviera , but it also is a must-stop for every adventure and watersport lover! A tour through the Osum Gorge is one of Albania’s most exciting activities. The Osum Gorge is 26km long, with many unexplored caves and underground passages .

One way of exploring this natural attraction is going on a rafting tour. Rafting through the gorge allows you to explore the imposing Bogova Waterfall and impressive vertical slopes ranging up to 80 meters. The rapids are considered a Class II, which means no prior white water experience is needed – perfect!

Another option is to put on your hiking shoes and go on a guided walk through the gorge, with spectacular vistas of the surrounding area guaranteed!

Where To Stay In Çorovodë

To extend your time (and spend a night) in Çorovodë, think about ending your day at the Nurellari Winery Cellar and Guest House. The family-owned winery offers beautiful tours around the winery, followed by a wine tasting . They also serve delicious traditional food! Why not spend a night at their adjacent guest house?

Berat To Sarandë

Çorovodë – Sarandë: 3 hours 15 min or Berat – Sarandë: 3 hours 30 min

Considered the unofficial capital of the Albanian Riviera, Sarandë is the perfect place for a summer getaway . If you are looking for pristine beaches , some vitamin sea, and a thriving nightlife – Sarandë has got all of this and more!

How To Get Into Sarandë

Two buses run from Berat to Sarandë, around 8 am and the other around 2.30 pm from the main bus stop. The bus will take 5-6 hours, with a visit to Girokaster , and costs 1200 lek (9.70 euro).

If you want to rent a car once in Sarandë, check here for tips.

Highlights of sarandë, ksamil beach.

Ksamil Beach, with its clear turquoise water, could easily be mistaken for a beach in a tropical country. This gem on the Ionian Sea is a famous summer destination for locals and tourists alike. The area comprises many small coves wrapped around a jagged coastline.

Butrint National Park

Easily the most romantic of Albania’s ancient sites , a visit to the UNESCO site of Butrint should definitely come onto your list! Settled within a national park , the ruins have been inhabited since prehistoric times. They used to be Greek colony sites and Roman cities. Only 20 km from the city, it takes around 2-3 hours to explore.

Price: 700lek (5.70 euro)

Buses from Sarandë leave outside the ZIT Information Centre on the hour and take 20 minutes.

Price: 100 leks (0.80 euro).

Tip: Try to visit early morning or late afternoon to avoid the cruise ship tourists !

Where To Stay In Sarandë

For a hostel with great views, friendly hosts, and 20 meters from the sea, choose Hairy Lemon Hostel. For a top-notch 4-star hotel on the beach, with breathtaking views of the ocean and in proximity to many bars, book at night at Hotel Brilant.

For a full list of places to stay in Saranda, check here

Where to eat in sarandë.

For an authentic meal or coffee next to the ocean, head to Limani Bar & Restaurant. This family-owned restaurant offers fine Mediterranean dining since 1998. Dishes are cheap, and portion sizes are big, a win-win! To see the sunset, try SunSet Saranda Restaurant.

How To Get Out Of Sarandë

The most convenient way to end a fantastic week in Albania is to leave from Corfu, Greece . From Sarande, you can take a ferry (70 minutes) or a speedboat (30 minutes) to Corfu to catch your flight back home.

Whatever option you choose, make sure to leave enough time between leaving Albania and getting to the airport two hours ahead of your scheduled flight!

Depending on the season, 2 – 13 departures are available, and ticket prices range from 18 to 24 euros. Three different companies operate the lines, so check for times for each individually: Ionian Seaways , Finikas Lines, or Joy Lines.

From the Port of Corfu , it takes only 15 minutes to the Corfu airport. An airport taxi costs around 15-20 euros and operates 24/7. Bus Line no. 15 costs 1.5 euros, takes about 20 minutes and runs between 7.50 am and 9.50 pm.

Hopefully, this post gives you enough ideas on how to spend seven wonderful, relaxing, adventurous, and history-packed days in this Balkan gem .

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Driving In Albania Overview

Driving in Albania can be an adventure all its own, and a car in Albania is your ticket to discovering the hidden gems this country has to offer.

Roads vary from the well-paved to the more adventurous types, making a trip around Albania exciting. Google Maps is a trusty companion but be prepared for the occasional detour that turns into an unexpected highlight of your journey.

Renting a car for your trip allows you to explore secluded beaches or quaint villages at your own pace. Remember, driving in Albania means you’ll pass breathtaking landscapes, so keep your camera ready. Just be sure to have travel insurance that covers driving in Albania, as it’ll give you peace of mind while you navigate the roads less traveled.

Is Albania Safe?

When it comes to safety, Albania is one of those underrated destinations that’s much safer than you might expect. Like any trip abroad , common sense is your best travel guide; keeping an eye on personal belongings and staying aware of your surroundings goes a long way.

Albania’s welcoming locals add to the feeling of security. However, don’t skip on travel insurance. It’s not just about safety; it’s about peace of mind. Whether you’re sunbathing right on the beach or exploring the old town of one of the cities in Albania, knowing you’re covered makes all the difference.

Albania’s charm lies not just in its landscapes but also in its ability to make you feel at home. It is a perfect one-week getaway or even a 10-day trip to dive deeper into its culture.

How Many Days In Albania?

Deciding how many days to spend in Albania isn’t easy, given all it has to offer. A perfect itinerary ranges from a compact 7 days to a more leisurely 10 days, allowing you to soak in the best of Albania.

With 7 hours, you can explore the beauty of the Blue Eye or spend an afternoon at the beach in one of Albania’s stunning beach towns. For those with more time, extending your stay to 10 days lets you delve deeper into places like the beautiful old town areas or the serene beaches in Albania, ensuring you experience the ultimate Albania.

Each day brings a new adventure, whether it’s Day 1 in the bustling capital or Day 7 when you find yourself in a great place known for its sensational views . Remember, whether it’s a quick trip or a longer stay, Albania promises to be one of the most memorable parts of your travel diary.

Final Word On Your Albania Travel Itinerary

Wrapping up your 7 days in Albania, it’s clear this trip is the perfect one-week escape to one of the most beautiful corners of Europe, from the serene waters of Gjipe Beach, a favorite for anyone seeking beautiful beaches, to the historical depths.

Your Albania trip will be a blend of relaxation and discovery.

Remember, while seven days can give you a taste of Albania, don’t be surprised if you find yourself dreaming of what 10 days in Albania could offer. This Albania travel guide was just the beginning; the rest of the journey awaits.

• 21 Ideas On Where To Go In Albania
• The Must-See Sights In Albania With Kids
• Guide To Albania’s National Parks
• Ultimate List Of Things To Do In Albania
• Explore The City Of Tirana, Albania
• Hotels Along The Albanian Riviera
• Top Things To Do In Saranda
• Our Top Picks For Albania Accommodation
• Things To See And Do In Albania In Winter
• Guide For The Theth To Valbona Hike

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A complete guide to travelling in Albania

Updated On 8th March, 2024

If you’re considering visiting Albania, add it to your Europe bucket list now. I’ve never had a country take me by surprise as much as Albania did. It’s one of Europe’s most hidden gems and if you haven’t been yet, book your tickets now.

My  8-day road trip through the Albanian Riviera  was eye-opening, jaw-dropping and memorising. We explored the capital of  Tirana  before moving towards the coastline and enjoying beach life in  Dhërmi ,  Vlorë ,  Himarë  and  Sarandë , some of the Riviera’s main towns. We also happened to be there for  Kala Festival , which added an upbeat element to our trip!

But that wasn’t all Albania had to offer. We were able to hike through forests and take in the mountain air in  Butrint National Park  and  Llogara National Park , as well as explore the underrated, barely touched, beautiful little towns and villages of  Berat  and  Gjirokaster.  The variety of landscapes and things to do in Albania only makes me want to visit again; I barely scratched the surface.

This travel guide will take you through everything you need to know before visiting Albania, including the best places to visit in Albania, and my top tips for travelling in Albania.

My Albania travel guide: everything you need to know about exploring Europe’s hidden gem

Basic facts about Albania…

• Currency:  Albanian Lek
• Language:  Albanian
• Capital:  Tirana
• Area:  28,748 km2 (11,100 sq mi)
• Population:  2,845,955
• Land borders:  Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia and Greece
• Maritime borders:  Greece, Montenegro and Italy
• Highest summit:  Mount Korab, 2,764m
• Plug sockets:  Most commonly, European (type C & F). Occasionally, UK (type G).
• Time zone:  CST/CEST (1 hour ahead of the UK)

Visa requirements for Albania…

Citizens of most EU countries can stay in Albania for 90 days in any 6-month period, visa-free. This rule also applies to citizens of the UK, USA, Australia, China, New Zealand, Singapore and more.  See a complete list of countries that can travel to Albania visa-free  here .

If you need a visa, or aren’t sure if you need a visa, check your local government’s travel advice.

See my  22 top tips for travelling in Europe here.

When’s the best time to visit Albania?

Albania has a Mediterranean climate with four distinct seasons. Hot dry summers, mild but wet winters, and springs and autumns that are warm enough to be comfortable, but not so hot that you’re sweating buckets! Bear in mind, however, that it does vary depending on where you are in the country. The coast tends to have higher summer temperatures and milder winters than the inland, more mountainous areas.

I’d say the best time to visit Albania is in spring (April-June) or autumn (September – November). For me, the balance of warm temperatures (but not too hot) and less chance of rainfall makes for perfect travelling conditions. Having said that though, if you like the heat or don’t mind a bit of rain, Albania is great for year-round travel!

See my  hidden gems you must visit when planning European adventure here.

Check out all my top tips for travelling in Albania  here .

How do you get to Albania?

Flying to albania:.

Albania’s main airport is Tirana Nënë Tereza International Airport (TIA). Here you can get direct flights from all over Europe, but if you’re travelling from another continent, expect a layover in a major European international airport.

Getting from Tirana airport to the city centre…

From the airport, you have a few options:

• Taxi:  The quickest option (20-25 minutes) but the most expensive (2,500 LEK)
• Shuttle bus:  LU-NA shpk  runs an hourly shuttle bus between 7:00-22:00 and is 300 LEK each way. It take about 30 minutes to get to Tirana city centre and it drops you by the National Museum of Tirana.

Top tip: Check out the flight deals on  Skyscanner here.

Here’s  how to pack a weekend away in a carry-on suitcase!

Ferries to Albania:

You can get the ferry to Albania from  Greece  or  Italy .  Check out ferry routes from Italy  here  and from Greece  here .

Buses to Albania:

You can get the bus to Albania from all over Europe, including but not only  Greece ,  Italy ,  Germany , Turkey, Kosovo, Bulgaria, North Macedonia and Montenegro.  Check bus tickets at the main stations in the country you are travelling from.

Where to stay in Albania…

Honestly, it depends on where you want to spend your time! Expect costs to be higher in the more touristy areas, such as in the capital of Tirana and the Albanian Riviera. Hostels are the cheapest option, with budget hotels and Airbnbs coming in a close second.

Places to stay in Albania that I’ve been to and can recommend include:

• Buff Hostel  in Tirana
• Altea  beach lodges at Drymades Beach, Dhërmi
• Old Bazaar 1790  in Gjirokastër
• Nefeli Apartments  in Sarandë
• Hotel Luxury  in Ksamil
• Guesthouse  Arben Elenzi  in Berat

Wild camping is completely legal in Albania, so great for a budget option! Paid campsites are also very cheap.  Check out my camping packing list here.

Check out hostels and hotels in Albania on  booking.com  here.

Use  this link  to get £25 off of your first Airbnb booking.

Transport in Albania…

The rail system isn’t well-developed, so locals and tourists tend to use buses. These are fairly cheap and have connections between most main towns in Albania. Timetables can be flexible though, and if a bus is full it will leave earlier than the timetable suggests, so get to the bus station/stop early to avoid disappointment!

Furgons (minibuses) are also an option, and definitely depart when they are full rather than according to a timetable. They’re a little dearer, but it’s a more comfortable experience and you can ask the driver to drop you off anywhere on the route (not necessarily waiting for a specific stop).

Hitchhiking in Albania is generally safe, although many drivers will expect some money towards the petrol before you get out.

BlaBlaCar is a ride-sharing app where you can connect with drivers who have space(s) in their car for a particular route, and then split the cost of the petrol.

We hired a 4×4 when we travelled Albania, which was an amazing experience and gave us the full flexibility of choosing when and where we wanted to go.

You’ll need an International Driving Permit for driving in Albania –  get yours here.

See my  bucket list of van life road trips in Europe here.

Safety in Albania…

Albania is a safe country to travel in. Like any country though, you need to be aware of your surroundings. Avoid flaunting any expensive equipment/technology, don’t walk home alone at night, and be cautious when you’re driving/crossing roads.

In terms of health and medical care, main towns have hospitals and doctors that you can access, although you’ll need to pay for these. The best healthcare is in the capital, Tirana. You cannot use an EHIC in Albania. Pharmacies in Albania, barnatore, have lots of medicines should you need anything (although bring your specific prescription meds with you) and private doctors and clinics in Tirana can speak English.

Always carry out travel insurance before you go anywhere! It’ll protect you in case of theft, illness or injury.  Check out my travel insurance  here.

Avoid drinking the tap water in Albania because it can give you a tummy ache. Take a reusable water bottle and try to fill up from restaurants, cafes, or larger, 5-litre bottles of water to reduce your plastic use. Get more  sustainability tips for travelling in Europe in this blog post !

Check out my top tips for staying safe when travelling  here.

Here’s my complete guide to travelling solo as a female, including all my safety top tips.

Food in Albania…

Albanian cuisine is fresh and delicious, with Ottoman and Mediterranean influences. There’s everything from fancy restaurants to street food here, so get your taste buds prepped!

Food you should try in Albania:

• Byrek : a savoury pie made with filo pastry, usually filled with spianch, gjize cheese or meat
• Fërgesë verore me speca dhe domate : fried (or oven baked) peppers and tomatoes, sometimes with feta cheese.
• Tavë Kosi : a quiche-like dish made with lamb, eggs and yogurt.
• Speça me gjize : stuffed peppers
• Kaçkavall : a famous Albanian cheese. You can eat it fried, baked or in salads or pies.
• Baklava : nuts, filo pastry and honey syrup.
• Qofte or kernaçka : fried or grilled meatballs
• Trilece : a traditional cake
• Fresh fish and seafood
• Grilled meat and vegatables
• Fresh seasonal fruit
• Local wine or raki  (grape brandy)

Note: when I visited Albania, I found it quite difficult to find vegan dishes, so you should research restaurants in the area you’ll be travelling in before you go out to eat.

Top tip: If you can, do a street food/culinary walking tour! Not only will you get to see the city, but you’ll have a happy tummy too!

Top tip: Check out  money-saving tips on my blog here.

The best places to visit in Albania…

Said to be one of the prettiest towns in Albania, and also known as the ‘Cinque Terre’ of Albania, this UNESCO world heritage site boasts beautiful architecture and an amazing amount of history. You can’t help but marvel at the Byzantine style windows that pop out the hillside in this beautiful little town.

See how I spent my time in Berat here.

The capital of Albania is likely to be the starting point on your Albanian adventure. With a mix of Ottoman and Italian architecture, it’s hard to believe this city was once full of grey, communist buildings. It’s a chaotic city, but it’s fun, especially at night in the trendy Blloku area. Don’t miss catching the cable car up to Mount Dajti for panoramic views across the city.

3. Theth National Park & Valbona Valley

This is the place to be for nature and hiking lovers. This village in the Albanian Alps is packed full of charming cottages and hiking trails, ready to take your breath away.

Here’s how to  keep fit when you’re travelling!

4. The Albanian Riviera

This is where I spent most of my time in Albania, and honestly, I was completely surprised that I fell in love with it so quickly. The area itself is absolutely stunning and one of Europe’s most hidden gems. This underrated stretch of coastline is home to the towns and villages of:

• Palasë
• Dhërmi.  Check out my stay in Dhërmi  here .
• Himarë.  Check out what I did in Himarë  here .
• Lukovë
• Sarandë.  Check out my stay in Sarandë  here .
• Vlorë.  Check out my stay in Vlorë  here . 
• Ksamil  (home to the famous  Blue Eye Spring ).  Check out my stay in Ksamil  here .
• Ksamil Islands

All of these are worth visiting in their own right! If you have the time, hire a car and spend a week or two exploring all the little towns and soaking up the sun.

The portion of the Ionian coastline that is known as the Albanian Riviera, or Bregu, is home to some of Europe’s best beaches and clearest waters. Grab your snorkel, and put these beaches on your bucket list:

• Puerto Palermo.  See what I got up to at Puerto Palermo  here .
• Drymades.  Check out out beach lodges on Drymades beach  here .

See my  21 cheap places to visit in Europe here

5. Gjirokastër.

I think Gjirokastër is my favourite place in Albania… so far. The mountain views, cobbled alleyways and the beautiful castle give this quaint little town so much character. If this town was anywhere else in the world it would be packed with tourists, but Albania really is a hidden gem and Gjirokastër is unspoilt.

Not far from Lake Skadar on the Albania-Montenegro border, Shkodra is a colourful town well worth exploring. The highlight is definitely Rozafel Castle, but if you prefer being at one with nature, the Buna River runs through the town and the Albanian Alps can be seen from the town centre.

7. Llogara National Park.

Centred on the Ceraunian Mountains along the Albanian Riviera, Llogara National Park is absolutely stunning. From dense forest to steep rock faces, here you can climb, hike, or simply let the wind run through your hair as you enjoy the views from the 4×4.

Not far from Tirana (you could easily visit for a day trip), the ‘Adriatic balcony’ is famous for Albania’s national hero, Skanderbeg. Climb up to the castle for fantastic panoramic views across the city!

9. Butrint National Park.

This ancient city and UNESCO World Heritage Site is surprisingly close to the Greek island of Corfu. This peninsula, bordered by Lake Butrint on one side and the Vivari Channel on the other, showcases Albania’s natural beauty and is one of the best places to visit in Albania.Famous for its perfect blend of history and nature, not only is it home to 1,200 species of animals and plants among the wetlands, hills, and islands, but the archaeological site covers over 2,500 years of history; this includes ancient city walls, remnants of a Roman theatre, a Byzantine Basilica and two castles.

Once the capital of Albania, this town is one of Albania’s best beach towns, and popular with tourists and locals alike. It can get crowded, but the town is full of history, the beach is beautiful, and the restaurants are full of fresh seafood. You can also hike to the ancient amphitheatre.

11. Apollonia

Another day trip from Tirana or Berat, the ruins of the ancient Illyiran city of Apollonia sit on an Albanian hilltop. This town, named after the Greek God Apollo, is less visited by tourists, but popular with locals for afternoon picnics in the olive groves.

See all the best things to do in Albania in this blog post. 

Watch my trip to Albania come to life in this travel video…

SEE ALL MY YOUTUBE TRAVEL VIDEOS HERE

EXPLORE ALBANIA ON MY BLOG HERE

Have you been to Albania?

What top tips would you add to this Albania guide? I’d love to know!

Love as always and happy adventuring,

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I’M MOLLIE AND I STARTED THIS BLOG BACK IN 2013 WHEN I HEADED OUT ON MY FIRST BACKPACKING ADVENTURE. 

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Wander-Lush

The Ultimate Albania Road Trip Itinerary — From the Riviera to the Vjosa & Lake Ohrid in 2 Weeks

Looking to check-off all the Albania must-sees and still venture off the tourist trail? My alternative Albania road trip itinerary offers a perfect balance of essential and offbeat destinations over two action-packed weeks.

With affordable rentals, excellent roads and an infinite supply of awe-inspiring landscapes, picturesque villages and dynamic cities, Albania is made for a self-driving adventure.

Driving around Albania this past autumn will go down in history as one of my favourite travel experiences of all time.

Having visited Albania for the first time a few years prior and exclusively relying on public transport, I am in a unique position to compare the two experiences. I can wholeheartedly assure you that renting a car in Albania is 100% worth it – particularly if you are travelling in the shoulder or low season.

While most Albania road trip itineraries focus on the Adriatic Coast, my route ventures to underrated and lesser-travelled parts of the country, including along the Vjosa River Valley and Lake Ohrid.

A tidy loop starting and finishing in the capital, Tirana, it covers all the must-sees in central-south Albania including Berat, Himara and Gjirokaster. It travels two of the country’s most scenic stretches of road, the coastal Llogara Pass and the newly sealed road from Permet to Korca, and includes ample opportunities for adventurous detours.

For all things parking, petrol and other practicalities, see my tips for driving in Albania (coming soon).

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

Transparency: Our car rental was sponsored by my long-term partners at Local Rent. All other expenses incurred during our trip were covered by us. I am solely responsible for creating this itinerary without any external input. All recommendations/criticisms are 100% my own.

Places visited on this Albania itinerary

Here is a quick summary of the main destinations on my 2-week itinerary. As you will soon see, there is a whole lot more to see and do between the major stops.

• Tirana — Albania’s fast-evolving capital city.
• Berat & Gjirokaster — twin UNESCO cities in Albania’s lush interior.
• The Albanian Riviera — beaches, canyons & a scenic drive down the Llogara Pass.
• Dhermi , Vuno & Upper Qeparo — charming Albanian villages hidden in the hills behind the beach.
• The Blue Eye — the famous natural pool between Ksamil and Gjirokaster.
• Benja & Sarandaporo — thermal springs in southeastern Albania.
• The Vjosa River — Europe’s last wild river.
• Permet — Albania’s capital of ecotourism & slow food.
• Leskovik — a hidden gem in the wine region & one of Albania’s best boutique accommodations.
• Lin — the oldest village in Europe on the Albanian side of Lake Ohrid.
• Korca — an underrated small city near the Greek border.
• Voskopoja — a village brimming with Byzantine churches.
• Butrint National Park & Apollonia — two of Albania’s premier archaeological sites.

Albania road trip route overview & map

This tried-and-tested driving route is essentially an exact replica of the road trip Ross and I did this autumn (with a few minor adjustments). It is well-paced, with only a couple of big driving days and plenty of down-time.

• Day 0: Arrive in Tirana – stay in Tirana at Konak I Skanderbeg Square
• Day 1: Lunch at Fustanella Farm – drive to Berat – stay in Berat at Josiph B&B
• Day 2: Full day in Berat & Osumi Canyon – stay at Josiph B&B
• Day 3: Visit Apollonia, Fier, Vlora & the Zvernec Islands – drive the Llogara Pass – stay in Dhermi at Roots
• Day 4: Full day in Dhermi – stay at Roots
• Day 5: Visit Vuno, Himara & Porto Palermo Castle – continue to Upper Qeparo – stay in Upper Qeparo at Villa Porta
• Day 6: Visit Saranda, Butrint NP, the Blue Eye & Field of Bunkers – stay in Gjirokaster at Jani Studio Apartments
• Day 7: Full day in Gjirokaster – stay at Jani Studio Apartments
• Day 8: Visit Tepelena & Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct – continue to Permet – walk to Leus – stay in Permet at Villa Permet or in Leus at Chri Chri Guest House
• Day 9: Visit the Benja Thermal Springs – return to Permet – stay at Villa Permet
• Day 10: Visit the Sarandaporo Thermal Springs – continue to Leskovik – stay in Leskovik at the Melesin Distillery
• Day 11: Visit Voskopoja – continue to Korca – stay in Korca at Villa Domenico or in Voskopoja at Stone Villas
• Day 12: Full day in Korca – stay at Villa Domenico
• Day 13: Visit Pogradec & the Royal Tombs of Selca – continue to Lin – stay in Lin at House 1960
• Day 14: Return to Tirana – stay in Tirana at Konak I Skanderbeg Square

How long should you spend in Tirana?

Most travellers will arrive in Albania via Tirana, where one of the country’s two international airports is located. While I have budgeted for 2 days in Tirana, you might need to add on some additional time in the capital depending on your arrival/departure schedule. I recommend doing this at the top of the itinerary.

We had enough time to spend four full days in Tirana before hitting the road. Most travellers will find 48 hours is ample time for the highlights.

You definitely do not need or want to drive in Tirana. The small spurts of city driving we did were by far the most stressful moments of our trip. Most of the city is walkable, while you can easily get to further-flung spots including Dajti Mountain and Bunk’Art using the excellent city bus network.

What about Theth, Valbona and Shkoder?

You will notice there is one glaring omission from this itinerary: the north.

The Accursed Mountains and particularly the hike from Valbona to Theth is definitely one of the highlights of Albania – and I do suggest you make time for it. Having previously visited the Alps and completed the hike in 2019, I felt no desire to go back and repeat it out of season.

My decision to leave Shkoder, Valbona and Theth out of this road trip itinerary is actually quite deliberate. You do not want to drive to these places. The windy roads in the north are the worst in the country, and a car can be a liability in the mountains.

Because Valbona-Theth is a thru trek, planning a driving route around it is very clunky. Some people choose to drive to Theth, hike to Valbona, then walk back to the car the following day. But this means skipping the Komani Lake Ferry, which is a huge mistake in my opinion. And do you really want to repeat the same hike on back to back days?

Provided it’s the right season for trekking (May to October most years, weather depending), add an additional 4-5 days for the north of Albania. It will look something like this (this is the exact plan Ross and I followed back in 2019):

• Day 1: Furgon from Tirana to Shkoder – afternoon in Shkoder – stay in Shkoder at Sweet Living Apartment
• Day 2: Transfer to Fierze – Komani Lake Ferry – afternoon in Valbona – stay in Valbona at Guesthouse Mehmeti
• Day 3: Hike to Theth – stay in Theth at Guesthouse Marashi
• Day 4 (optional): Extra day in Theth for hiking & the Blue Eye – stay in Theth at Guesthouse Marashi
• Day 5: Furgon from Theth to Tirana – afternoon in Tirana – stay in Tirana

Another option is to: 1. Drive to Shkoder from Tirana (stopping in Kruje on the way); 2. Organise to leave your car at your guesthouse; 3. Take the Komani Ferry to Valbona; 4. Do the one-way hike; 5. Return to Shkoder by bus from Theth to pick up your car. This would mean leaving your car idle for 3-4 days, which is a bit of a waste in my mind.

It is possible to take a car on the ferry, but spots are limited and from what I understand, it can be a stressful process. And again, you would have to repeat the hike twice.

The Tirana-Shkoder-Valbona-Theth route is very popular and easy to do with public transport by booking a combination bus-ferry ticket online via the official Berisha page .

Need more time on the coast?

If you are a regular reader of this blog, you will know that I am not a beach person. Growing up in Queensland either spoiled me or scarred me – or perhaps a bit of both.

I am entirely unfamiliar with Eastern European beaches (outside of Georgia and the Black Sea Coast), so when we landed on the Albanian Riviera, I was quite taken aback by the huge developments and amount of trash that’s around. This might be controversial, but I just don’t think the beaches in Albania are all that appealing.

If you do want more time on the beach, then I would recommend adding a night in Himara or Saranda between Qeparo and Gjirokaster. For a good range of restaurants and non-beach activities, Saranda would be my top choice. Parking is a bit tricky in Saranda, so be sure to choose a hotel or guesthouse with onsite parking.

What is the best time of year for an Albanian driving holiday?

Albania’s tourism star is rising, and I expect it will only get more popular in the years to come. Having visited in June/July the first time around and experienced the summer crowds, this time we chose the month of October for our road trip. It turned out to be a very wise decision.

It was still warm enough to swim, Tirana was quiet, and in the interior of the country, conditions were perfect for spending long periods outdoors.

Shoulder season (autumn or spring) is by far the best time of year for a road trip in Albania. We were able to get a great price on our rental car, had stress-free parking everywhere (including on the beaches and in all cities), and the roads were far less busy compared to summer.

One thing to consider is that the coast shuts down in the off-season. Restaurants and bars along the beach are mostly closed. On a few occasions we experienced zombie apocalypse scenes on the Riviera, where deserted bars still had liquor bottles and glasses set on the bar – as if everyone had picked up and left in a hurry.

Visiting smaller villages requires a bit more pre-planning and flexibility, as many businesses and services shut down after September. In October, we found all the accommodations we had earmarked were still accepting guests – but by November, many had closed off bookings for the year.

If you plan to add the north of Albania to your itinerary, note that the Komani Lake Ferry only runs in summer.

Where to rent a car in Albania

We used Local Rent to find our Ford Fiesta. I regularly use this platform to hire cars in Georgia , and in Albania, it was a similarly smooth process.

Local Rent differs from larger companies in that it sources cars from local agents. Prices are generally much lower – from 14 Euro a day in Albania. In October, our car cost 375 Euro for 2 weeks.

While all major agencies in Albania require a credit card in the driver’s name, Local Rent does not. ( No credit card was great news for us since we don’t have one.) There is no cash deposit required either – the only thing you pay in advance is a small online booking fee, which is refundable. The balance is settled in cash when you pick up the car.

Provided your licence meets the requirements, Local Rent agents in Albania do not require an International Driving Permit . All you need is your driving licence and ID (passport). Rules change, so for peace of mind I recommend contacting your agent in advance and asking them directly if they need an IDP.

Local Rent has a nice fleet of cars in Albania (including plenty of auto transmission options). Our small car did the job just fine, but it definitely struggled on some of the steeper roads.

You do not need a 4WD for this itinerary, but it’s not a bad idea to upgrade to a 4WD or SUV . In retrospect, I should have gone with a more robust car to tackle those hills and unexpected unpaved sections. I am still shocked that we didn’t get a single flat tire.

Use my affiliate link to search for a rental car in Albania via Local Rent .

5 quick tips for driving in Albania

1. Drive with dipped headlights at all times — Just like in Montenegro , it’s the law. This quirk definitely takes some getting used to. If you are driving an older car, my advice is to set a lights-off routine from day one to avoid a flat battery disaster.

2. Use Google Maps to navigate — Save for a few very minor glitches (mostly where new highways and bypasses had not yet been mapped), Google Maps never let us down. Pick up a local SIM card in Tirana before you set off. We had good coverage with Vodafone.

3. Don’t worry about tolls or vignettes — There is only one toll road in Albania on the A1 highway between Durres and Kosovo . Since you are not likely to be driving this way (my road trip itinerary doesn’t venture in this direction), you do not need to worry about tolls, vignettes or other permits provided you stay within Albania.

4. Carry cash for fuel & parking — Free street parking is plentiful in smaller cities and villages (especially in the shoulder/off season), but you will need cash to pay for parking in some cities and beach towns. The only place where we needed to pay for street parking was Korca. Most petrol stations are old-school and work on a cash basis. Regular gas goes by the name ‘Benzine’. Stay in the car; the attendant will do the pumping for you.

5. Relax! — For the most part, driving in Albania is an enjoyable experience. 99% of the roads we encountered were in good condition, and the local driving style is quite laid back.

The perfect 2-week Albania road trip: Detailed day-by-day itinerary

This route mostly follows state highways (SH) with a few backroad detours. As mentioned, all the major roads we drove were in near perfect condition with the exception of the road from Leskovic to Korce, which is unfinished in one section.

Approximate drive times for each leg are included in parenthesis.

This turned out to be a long post, so I have only included a couple of images for each stop. You can find plenty more photos along with detailed descriptions in my separate destination guides, linked throughout.

Day 0: Arrive in Tirana

If you’re flying into Albania, note that Tirana Airport is 30-45 minutes from the city centre. The easiest and most affordable way to get in from the airport is by using the shuttle bus. It departs every hour, on the hour, 24-7. Tickets cost 400 LEK per person and can be purchased using cash (LEK or Euro) on board. Find the full details here in my Tirana Airport arrivals guide .

Tirana Airport is small and self-explanatory. There are both ATMs and cash exchange booths inside the arrivals hall. I recommend withdrawing a small amount of local currency when you arrive, then finding an ATM in the centre that has lower fees (the cheapest we could find was the American Bank of Investment, which charges a fee of 500 LEK).

You will definitely need a local SIM card for navigating the roads in Albania. We chose Vodafone – even though the customer service was lacklustre, the price was satisfactory and coverage was good throughout our trip. We paid 2,000 LEK for 30 GB of data (valid for 30 days) plus an additional 200 LEK for the SIM. We bought ours in-store but prices at the airport appeared to be the same. Browse all packages here .

Depending on your flight schedule, you might have a full day or an evening in Tirana. I suggest spending it in the city centre, seeing the mandatory sights on Skanderbeg Square then crossing the river to the Blloku neighbourhood .

Do — Sightsee on Skanderbeg Square; visit Bunk’Art 2 Museum; climb the Pyramid of Tirana; dinner & drinks in Blloku.

Stay — Konak Skanderbeg Square offers self-contained apartments with a shared kitchen footsteps from the main square. The location is super convenient if you’re using the city bus to travel in from the airport and to the car rental office.

Further reading — My Tirana city guide .

Day 1: Tirana to Berat

• Distance covered today: 100 kilometres (62 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 2.5 hours
• Recommended route: Backroad through Picall > SH A3 via Kucove

Having arrived in Tirana a few days prior, we elected to collect our rental car from the agent’s office in the city centre. This meant we didn’t have to backtrack to the airport – to get to the office, we simply jumped on a city bus. It also meant that we could get straight onto the highway without driving through the city centre – a huge plus, since traffic in Tirana is always chaotic.

As is typical of my experience with Local Rent , the hand-over was very low-key. We signed our contract, paid in cash, and gave our car – a Ford Fiesta – a quick look over before setting off.

Whenever we drive in a new country, I find it helpful to pinpoint a couple of road stops within the first 30-60 minutes. The idea is to slowly warm up and have somewhere very specific to aim for.

Leaving Tirana, we headed straight to the Lapidari 2 Viewpoint (15 mins) on the southwestern side of the city. Our aim was to get a city view without putting in the legwork – it didn’t quite pan out, though. When we arrived, we discovered the road to the viewpoint was blocked to cars. We didn’t feel like walking for 45 minutes in the heat, so we abandoned ship.

It was still a good decision in hindsight because it introduced us to a backroad that we could use to travel down to our lunch spot, Fustanella Farm. The country road was completely empty and very scenic.

Fustanella Farm (30 mins) is a gorgeous farm-to-table restaurant on the outskirts of Tirana, with a rustic outdoor dining terrace set amongst olive and fig groves. It is perfectly positioned for a lunchtime stopover on the drive to Berat.

Halfway through an incredible lunch, we got a call from the rental office informing us we had left Ross’s driving licence in their photocopy machine. So unfortunately we had to turn around and head back to the city (luckily it was only a 20-minute detour on the highway). Driving back into Tirana at peak hour was a bit of a nightmare.

If it hadn’t been for that error, we could have connected directly to the highway and reached Berat in around 1.5 hours. Having wasted more than an hour backtracking to Tirana, we had to eliminate some stops from our itinerary. If you are making good time, there are several wineries located on the way into Berat, including Kantina Edoni and Kantina Luani . We only had time for a quick walk around the park in the industrial city of Kucove , which is arranged around old smokestacks.

It was late afternoon when we finally pulled into Berat . For a memorable experience, I highly recommend staying inside the castle grounds like we did. Be sure to take the turnoff after the bus station and use Rruga Muzak Topia to approach the castle from the back side (the main road is very steep and narrow). Some of the cobbled streets inside the castle peter out and turn into impassable laneways, so stick to the main streets and park wherever you see vehicles congregating. Our guesthouse provided clear instructions in advance.

After checking in, we went for an evening wander around the castle grounds before a well-deserved Birra Korca and an easy dinner at one of the restaurants inside the castle.

Stop — Lapidari 2 viewpoint; Fustanella Farm; Kucove; Kantina Edoni or Kantina Luani wineries.

Park — Free street parking is available inside Berat Castle.

Do — Evening walk through Berat Castle; sundowners at Te Zalua; dinner at TEMI.

Stay — Bed & Breakfast Josiph inside the Berat Castle walls (night 1/2).

Day 2: Full day in Berat

There is enough to see and do in Berat to comfortably fill a full day. A huge perk of staying inside the castle is being able to step out into the most beautiful part of Berat before the mid-morning crowds arrive.

We started our morning in the castle then made our way down the hill to cover Berat’s twin neighbourhoods, Gorica and Mangalem . During the hottest part of the day we found some respite by taking the audio tour at the Onufri Museum . Then we visited a few of the Byzantine churches , and enjoyed another stunning sunset from the castle grounds.

If a full day in Berat is too much, there is an option to take your car out for a drive in the afternoon. You can backtrack to a winery, or venture in the opposite direction to Osumi Canyon , 90 minutes away. There are waterfalls and caves nearby that you can also access by car. We visited Osumi on our first trip to Albania (in summer) and thoroughly enjoyed it.

Do — Early morning walk in the castle; explore the Gorica and Mangalem Quarters; afternoon at a winery or Osumi Canyon (optional).

Stay — Bed & Breakfast Josiph (night 2/2).

Further reading — My full guide to Berat .

Day 3: Berat to the Albanian Riviera

• Distance covered today: 203 kilometres (126 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 4.5 hours
• Recommended route: SH72 > SH4 > coastal road (SH8)

Despite having little interest in Albania’s beaches, we gave ourselves four full days on the Riviera with the goal of exploring the hillside villages behind the coast. If you are a beach person, three nights is ample time to get your dose of sand and sun.

Knowing we had a full day of sightseeing ahead of us, we organised to stay at the northern end of the Riviera to shave just that little bit of driving time off. The tiny village of Dhermi turned out to be one of my favourite places in Albania, with enough beach and non-beach activities to keep you occupied in any season.

Apollonia (75 mins) is a tentative UNESCO Site and the first of several Greek/Roman/Illyrian archaeological parks featured on this itinerary. In many ways I preferred it over the more-popular Butrint – you can be the judge (Butrint is coming up on day 6).

Founded in the 6th century BC, Apollonia was one of the largest settlements on the Adriatic. The thing that sets it apart (aside from its scale) is the fact that it had its own sculpture school. Thus the small museum inside the Archaeological Park is filled with incredible statues.

We set off early from Berat with the aim of arriving at Apollonia at opening time (9am during winter). The entire complex is outdoors and very spread out – it requires a fair bit of walking, so it’s best to avoid visiting during the hottest part of the day.

When preparing for this trip, I had read about an abandoned steam-power plant near the park. So we made a quick stop in the city of Fier for a hit of urbexing. A man in a reflective vest showed us around a few of the concrete carcasses and took us inside one of the abandoned cooling towers – unfortunately things went sour when he started demanding money from us for the ‘tour’. A little shaken up after his empty threats to call the police on us, we had to hotfoot it out of there.

Our next stop was a lot more vanilla. Albania’s third-largest city, Vlora (30 mins), boasts two of my favourite things: a pretty old town filled with colourful facades, and an impressive WWII memorial . We parked our car on a quiet side street and visited both on foot.

One of the main reasons I wanted to return to Albania was to spend more time around the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last wild rivers. It spills out into the Adriatic near Vlora, so I couldn’t miss the chance to see the Vjosa-Narta Delta Protected Area .

The Zvernec Islands sit in the delta’s Narta Lagoon and are the best access point if you don’t have a 4WD (if you do, off-road tracks are available on the northern side of the lagoon for birdwatching and secluded beaches). We drove the scenic road through a pine forest (approx. 30 minutes from Vlora) to the Zvernec Bridge and crossed the boardwalk over the marshes to the 13th-century St. Mary’s Monastery .

Departing Vlora, we headed south along the coast towards the Riviera proper and arrived at the Llogara Pass (45 mins) just as the light was dwindling. This 15-kilometre stretch of highway is one of the most scenic roads I have ever been on – up there with the Kotor Serpentine that we drove in Montenegro . As you crawl down the mountain, you descend into a sea of low clouds, with the Adriatic stretched out before you like a blue satin sheet.

The marked viewing platform on the highway was quite crowded, so we continued down the road a little further to the ’Big Bunker’ , a Hoxha-era monstrosity perched on the cliff. We climbed down into the bunker and got a front-row seat for sunset.

Dhermi is one of the first major villages you come to after descending the pass, so you can catch the sunset and still make it to your accommodation before dark. We did just that, arriving in time to enjoy a twilight beer on our little terrace at Roots Dhermi .

Stop — Apollonia Archaeological Park; Fier; Vlora & the Zvernec Islands; the Big Bunker & other viewpoints on the Llogara Pass.

Park — Free street parking is easy to come by in Dhermi out of season. If you see a congregation of cars near an intersection, chances are the surrounding streets are either too narrow or too steep to navigate. Follow suit and find a park where there are other cars gathered.

Do — Tour the Apollonia Archaeological Park; urbex at the Fier Kraftwerks; grab lunch in Vlora old town; walk the boardwalk to St Mary’s Monastery; drive the Llogara Pass; watch the sunset at the Big Bunker.

Stay — Roots Dhermi (night 1/2).

Day 4: Full day in Dhermi

Dhermi is split into two parts: the lower and newer Dhermi is a beach resort like any other, with bars and hotel developments cramped along a pebble shore. The older part of Dhermi, the upper village, is a world apart. All white-washed houses and cobbled lanes with a blue-domed Greek-style church belltower stealing the show, the restored village is one of the most beautiful places in Albania.

We gave ourselves a full day in Dhermi to wander the streets at sunrise and sunset, walk the historic Mills Trail down to the waterfront, and stroll along the restored promenade .

Dhermiu Beach is clean and relatively quiet, making it a good choice for swimming. Alternatively, the trailhead through Gjipe Canyon to the popular Gjipe Beach is just a 7-minute drive away in Iljas – we considered it, but decided to spend our afternoon eating tzatziki in Dhermi instead.

Food options in Dhermi are limited in the off-season. We ate our breakfasts (Italian coffee and byrek) at Barba Niko Bakery and had a nice pasta lunch directly opposite at Restorant Genti . For dinner, Sofia Bar in Dhermi serves grilled fish and a mean tzatziki. The terrace here is a prime spot for sunset.

Park — We left our car in the same spot for most of the day. To save time, we drove to the local bakery to pick up breakfast and drove into town for lunch. Street parking was easy to find on both occasions.

Do — Explore charming Dhermi; hike the Mills Trail to Dhermi Beach; lunch in Dhermi town; Gjipe Canyon & Beach (optional).

Stay — Roots Dhermi (night 2/2).

Further reading — Things to do in and around Dhermi .

Day 5: Dhermi to Upper Qeparo

• Distance covered today: 35 kilometres (22 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 60 minutes
• Recommended route: SH8

Qeparo is another lovely beach town 40 minutes south of Dhermi. Its proximity to both excellent beaches and several more villages and castles makes it a convenient base.

Like Dhermi, Qeparo is split into an upper and lower village – but the difference is much more stark. Upper Qeparo has not been restored and is partially abandoned, with a good portion of its stone houses in a state of disrepair. A rare example of traditional Albanian village architecture as it was, its beauty is more the decrepit kind.

We spent two nights in Upper Qeparo, but on one of those days it was raining (good timing for us because we were due for a lazy day). An afternoon plus a morning in Qeparo is ample time to explore the village.

Day 5 of our road trip was packed with stop-overs as we hopped down to Qeparo over the course of around five hours. We arrived in Vuno (15 mins) bright and early and were the only two pairs of feet padding the stone streets under vaulted arches. The incredible St. Nicholas Church – a forgotten chapel with vivid frescoes totally exposed to the elements – was a highlight.

Himara Castle (15 mins) commands exceptional sea views and was another highlight of the Riviera for me. Cafe Butterfly inside the fortress grounds serves good coffee and sweet snacks.

We had planned to drive down to the ‘Submarine Bunker’ in Porto Palermo, but after seeing it from afar from the highway, we decided against it. As much as I would have liked to swim into the concrete tunnel, it wasn’t quite what I imagined – and the road down looked dicey.

Unfortunately we arrived to find Porto Palermo Castle (25 mins) closed on a Monday (the schedule changes in mid-October), so we flew our drone over the triangular fortification instead.

The road to Upper Qeparo (25 mins) is steep but short and fully sealed. We arrived in the village with a couple of daylight hours to spare, and spent them getting lost on the backstreets and walking through the olive groves to Ali Pasha’s Tower before settling down to a delicious dinner at Te Rrapi ne Qeparo .

Stop — Vuno; Gjipe Canyon & Beach (optional); Himare Castle; the Submarine Bunker viewpoint; Porto Palermo Castle.

Park — We parked our car at this wide crossroads at the entrance to the village. It is possible to drive deeper into the village, but we didn’t want to risk it.

Do — Wander the cobbled streets of Vuno & find St. Nicholas Church; explore Himare Castle; stop for a view of the Submarine Bunker; visit Porto Palermo Castle; afternoon stroll through Upper Qeparo; dinner at Te Rrapi ne Qeparo.

Stay — Villa Porta Qeparo .

Further reading — My guide to Old Qeparo .

Day 6: Upper Qeparo to Gjirokaster

• Distance covered today: 133 kilometres (83 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 3.5 hours
• Recommended route: SH8 > SH81 > SH99 > SH4

The drive inland from Qeparo to Gjirokaster was by far the longest of our trip. I was a little concerned that we would run out of time, but we managed to fit everything in.

Bookended with an indulgent breakfast in Saranda and golden hour at the Field of Bunkers, it was a perfect day from start to finish. My only regret is not spending longer in Saranda – I really liked the city’s aesthetic – but after four days, we were more than ready to leave the beach behind.

Leaving Qeparo, we made a beeline for Saranda (60 mins) and had time for a short stroll on the waterfront before an excellent breakfast at Marini . Driving through the city during morning peak hour was a little sketchy – and it was challenging to find a park on the waterfront – so I recommend arriving as early as possible.

On the edge of Saranda, Butrint National Park is Albania’s most-visited attraction and oldest UNESCO Site. I had high expectations and to be completely honest, I found Butrint a bit disappointing. The Roman Forum was much smaller than I had imagined, and the floor that was previously flooded has been covered over. The museum was excellent, but having a guard shadow us the entire time to enforce a no-photo policy really detracted from the experience.

Most disappointingly of all, the baptistry mosaics pictured on every tourist brochure were completely covered in sand (later in the trip we would encounter the same thing in Lin). I had no idea this was standard practice – surely it’s possible to build a roof or insert a horizontal screen and project an image of the mosaics onto it?

The highlight of Butrint for me was the scenery and walking trails along the water.

If we had more time, we could have explored Ksamil and its beaches and islands, or used the car ferry outside the archaeological park to access the Venetian Triangle Castle . Instead, we drove back through Saranda and headed east to start our journey towards Lake Ohrid on the opposite side of the country.

You need a solid two hours minimum to visit the Blue Eye or Syri i Kaltër (40 mins), a 164-feet-deep sinkhole enveloped in azure pools and lush forest. Though it is undeniably beautiful, I found it over-commercialised – the concrete road you have to walk to get there is an eyesore. I’m glad we went, but I don’t consider it an essential stop.

After driving another 30 minutes towards Gjirokaster, we got up close and personal with some of Albania’s concrete mushrooms at the Field of Bunkers (30 mins). There are a dozen or more bunkers of all shapes and sizes dotted around the field alongside a quarry – many have their original door mechanisms intact, and some are big enough to walk inside. Don’t follow Google Maps – take this turn-off instead.

There is an option to stop at the nearby Hadrianoplis Theatre , but the non-road requires a 4WD (or at least something more robust than a Fiesta).

We arrived in Gjirokaster (30 mins) ahead of schedule and enjoyed a local dinner near our accommodation in the new part of the city. Gjirokaster was a breeze to navigate, and we had no issue finding a spot to leave the car.

Stop — Saranda; Butrint National Park; Ksamil (optional); the Blue Eye; Field of Bunkers.

Park — Free street parking is available in Gjirokaster. We parked in the small lot attached to our apartment complex.

Do — Eat breakfast at Marini in Saranda; tour Butrint Archaeological Park; visit the Blue Eye; photograph the Field of Bunkers; dinner in Gjirokaster.

Stay — Jani Studio Apartments (night 1/2).

Day 7: Full day in Gjirokaster

Gjirokaster might be my favourite city in Albania. Like Berat, it has a historic ‘core’ that is protected under a shared 2005 UNESCO listing. Personally I prefer it over Berat – I adore the Old Bazaar area, and Gjirokaster has a greater variety of things to see and do.

We spent our day in Gjirokaster revisiting old favourites and ticking off a few things we missed the first time around. I highly recommend getting an early start and wandering the Old Bazaar just after dawn . The Obelisk is a must-visit for panoramic views.

My highlights of Gjirokaster were touring the Cold War Tunnel , eating traditional oshaf fig pudding for breakfast, and going inside the magnificent Zekate House before walking the backroads to Gjirokaster Castle .

We waited out the warmest part of the day inside the Ethnographic Museum . Alternatively, you can stretch your legs on the 2-ish kilometre hike through town to Ali Pasha’s Bridge . We did it on our first visit to Gjirokaster – it has since become quite popular. (Tomorrow there is a more spectacular Ottoman-era aqueduct to see outside of Tepelena.)

We finished the day with a feast at Restorant Pajtimi , a humble local joint outside the tourist hub. Their version of tave kosi (Albania’s national dish of lamb baked in yogurt) was the best I had.

Do — Take an early morning stroll in the Gjirokaster Bazaar; tour the Cold War Tunnel; walk to Ali Pasha’s Bridge; visit Gjirokaster Castle for sunset; dinner at Restorant Pajtimi.

Stay — Jani Studio Apartments (night 2/2).

Further reading — 10 things to do in Gjirokaster .

Day 8: Gjirokaster to Permet

• Distance covered today: 84 kilometres (52 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 2 hours
• Recommended route: SH4 > backroad towards Bence > SH75

Pressing east from Gjirokaster we entered the most exciting phrase of our Albania itinerary. From this point on, it was all new territory for us (with the exception of Korca, which we had visited twice before) – and we were finally getting a glimpse of the Vjosa River, which was a major inspiration for the trip.

Permet on the Vjosa is a small city with huge potential. It is the self-appointed nucleus of Albania’s emerging Slow Food movement, with half a dozen or more restaurants that respect the philosophy. It is also a burgeoning ecotourism destination, with hiking and mountain biking trails popping up along the river and in the nearby Fir of Hotova National Park.

We were happy with our decision to stay in Permet for two nights – I loved the town’s aesthetic, and it meant we could try more restaurants (we managed five in total!). On our first night, we treated ourselves to a suite at Villa Permet . It was fabulous. On our second night, we moved to Guest House Shtepia ime .

On the way to Permet, we stopped at Ujë Ftoht Cafe (30 mins) for coffee and plate of Albanian pancakes with local honey. The lovely location on the Drinos River would be perfect for summer – in October it was a bit blustery.

We soon arrived in Tepelena (10 mins), birthplace of the legendary Ali Pasha of Ioannina, whose footprint is all over Albania and the Balkans . Tepelena Castle was not at all what we were expecting (I won’t spoil it for you). There is some very interesting Soviet-esque architecture in the centre of town.

Tepelena has a dark past as the site of an internment camp where an estimated 3,000 people were imprisoned during the communist era, around 500 of whom never saw freedom again. There are plans to turn this camp and the notorious Spac Prison into museums ; for now the site remains partially abandoned. I got the chills just seeing it from afar and did not want to go any further.

Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct is a short 10-minute detour from Tepelena via a scenic mountain road and was one of my favourite road stops. An incredible feat of Ottoman engineering, it was still used to irrigate fields up until a few years ago. The aqueduct has been partially reconstructed and a walking path built to access it from the highway. If you have time, a new marked hiking trail starts from behind the aqueduct.

We spent a good half hour photographing the aqueduct from different angles as the sun started to peek above the mountains, casting awesome shadows. Knowing we had a hike of sorts coming up later that day, we continued down to Permet (60 mins) and checked into our first hotel.

In the afternoon we embarked on the hike from Permet to Leus , a small village above the town. It’s only a 30-minute walk, but the steep incline and rough terrain makes it feel a lot longer.

When we arrived, we were elated to find a group of Chinese tourists and their guide, who was weidling a giant key, gathered in front of Leus Orthodox Church . It meant that our slog up wasn’t in vain – we were going to be able to see the interior. Painted from the rafters to the floor, with inlay wood ceilings and a mezzanine level you can climb to get closer to the dome, this is by far the most beautiful church I have seen in my life. I am not a particularly religious person, but it was nothing short of a transcendental experience.

Still buzzing from our holy encounter, we spent another half hour wandering around Leus between haystacks and sweet cottages.

As wonderful as Villa Permet was, my biggest regret of the trip was not booking a night at Chri Chri Guest House in Leus (I tried, but they were sold out). It would have been wonderful to stay overnight in the tiny village, and I bet the owner can organise a visit to the church. Transfers are available from Permet for those who don’t have a 4WD.

Stop — Ujë Ftoht Cafe; Tepelena Castle; Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct.

Park — Free street parking is easy to find in Permet.

Do — Breakfast at Ujë Ftoht Cafe; walk through Tepelena Castle; visit Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct; hike to the Orthodox Church of Leus from Permet.

Stay — Villa Permet or Guest House Shtepia ime in Permet or Chri Chri Guest House in Leus (night 1/2).

Day 9: Full day in Permet + Benja Thermal Springs

• Distance covered today: 14 kilometres (7 miles)
• Recommended route: SH75 > Benja Road

If it’s the season, then you could spend a day mountain biking on one of the newly marked trails around Permet or rafting on the Vjosa River . There is an information booth in the centre of town where you can hire bikes and inquire about river expeditions.

We didn’t have the best weather, so we spent the morning wandering the flagstone paths through Permet Old Town , browsing the cute antique shops – and most importantly, eating local cuisine . Of the half a dozen Slow Food restaurants in Permet that we managed to fit in, Bar Restaurant Trifilia was my favourite.

The drizzle had cleared by the afternoon so we made our way to the Benja Thermal Springs , a 30-minute drive away on the fringe of Fir of Hotova National Park. Set in the spectacular Langarica Canyon beneath the arched Ottoman-era Kadiut Bridge, there are seven separate pools fed by different mineral waters. It was reasonably crowded on an October afternoon, but I still enjoyed the experience. More secluded swimming spots can be found by trekking deeper into the canyon via the riverbank – but alas, we didn’t have the right footwear.

In the evening, we scaled the staircase to the top of Guri i Qytetit , a giant rock dropped in the centre of Permet, ahead of a satisfying dinner and glass of house wine at Te Culi Slow Food .

Do — Soak in the Benja Thermal Springs & hike through the gorge; explore Permet town; eat at Permet’s Slow Food restaurants.

Stay — Villa Permet or Guest House Shtepia ime in Permet or Chri Chri Guest House in Leus (night 2/2).

Further reading — My guide to Permet (coming soon).

Day 10: Permet to Leskovik

• Distance covered today: 54 kilometres (34 miles)
• Recommended route: SH75 > SH80 > backroad to Sarandaporo > SH65

Today’s drive was the most anticipated of the trip – but of course we woke up to torrential rain. The clouds petered out as the day went on, but a heavy fog followed us all the way to Leskovik. I still managed to snap a few photos of the Vjosa River Bend (30 mins) and of an abandoned bridge wrapped in fall foliage.

This time last year, Leskovik was not at all on the tourist trail. The tiny town in one of Albania’s most prestigious wine regions is still a bit of an obscure choice – the main reason we picked it was to break up the longest drive of the trip from Permet to Korca.

As it turned out, Leskovik is a very interesting place. When Enver Hoxha was in charge, Mavrud wines and raki from Leskovik were earmarked exclusively for him and the party elite. The mineral-rich soils here yield spectacular grapes, and even though the wine industry is a fraction of the size it once was, you can still see vast vineyards wrapped around the imposing limestone massif as you wind your way into the town.

Named after that rock, Melesin Distillery is a new boutique hotel that is putting Leskovik back on the map. We splurged on a night here and didn’t regret it one bit – it was the best accommodation of our trip. The restaurant is top notch, serving local dishes alongside Leskovik wine and gin distilled in-house.

We spent the afternoon exploring Leskovik and made a brilliant ‘discovery’ when we stumbled on a set of bunkers with military diagrams painted on the walls. The town is very small and can be covered on foot in the space of an hour.

If the weather is on your side, then I suggest stopping at the Sarandaporo Thermal Springs on the way into Leskovik. (We backtracked to the springs the following morning.) A local alternative to Benja, Sarandaporo is located right on the Greek border. At one point we inadvertently wandered across the state line. Whoops.

Crafted from stone blocks, the baths sit high above the river and are fed with bubbling sulfuric waters. The location is nothing short of spectacular. We were concerned about the road, but it turns out a freshly sealed road has been installed – part of the way, at least. We had to drive for around 10 minutes over gravel then walk another 30 minutes along the riverbed to find the springs. It was certainly an adventure.

Stop — Vjosa River Bend Viewpoint; abandoned bridge; Sarandaporo Thermal Springs.

Park — Free parking is available in front of Melesin Distillery.

Do — Stop for photos of the Vjosa river bend & abandoned bridge; swim in the Sarandaporo Thermal Springs; gin tasting & dinner at Melesin Distillery.

Stay — Melesin Distillery .

Further reading — My guide to Leskovik .

Day 11: Leskovik to Korca/Voskopoja

• Distance covered today: 85 kilometres (53 miles) (or 105 kilometres to Voskopoja)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 3.5 hours (or 4 hours to Voskopoja)
• Recommended route: SH75

Day 11 was the longest drive of the trip, mostly because of the road conditions. Construction on this highway has been ongoing since summer. Once complete, it will shorten the drive time considerably.

As it currently stands, the worst section of road is around Barmash. Mostly compacted gravel, it’s far from the worst road I’ve seen,  but it is bumpy and slow going. After Erseke, it is all smooth sailing over a freshly tarred highway.

Unsure of just how long the drive to Korca would take, we were very selective with our stops and only made quick photo breaks in Barmash and Erseke for the war memorials. We planned to visit the Kamenica Tumulus Archaeological Museum , but like most museums in Albania, it was closed on a Monday.

Unperturbed and grateful to be nearing our destination well before sunset, we continued to Voskopoja, a small village 30 minutes outside of Korca.

Voskopoja is famed for its high concentration of Orthodox churches that date back to the 18th century when it was one of the biggest cities in the Balkans and a centre of Aromanian culture . We only managed to see two of the half a dozen churches we had bookmarked – the rest were closed for restoration and covered in scaffolding (please do take this into consideration when planning a trip; works are not expected to be completed before summer 2024). Of course there was no information anywhere online about the closures.

We did manage to get inside the 1751 Profet Ilia Monastery , which almost redeemed Voskopoja with its sunset magical-ness.

Overall though, Voskopoja was a let down – not only because of the churches being closed, but also because the whole place had a slightly off-putting, almost fake feel to it. After visiting so many lovely villages earlier in the trip, Voskopoja just didn’t do it for me.

I recommend staying in Korca for two nights and potentially adding a half-day trip to the village if you’re desperate to see the churches.

Stop — Various WWII memorials; Kamenica Tumulus Archaeological Museum.

Park — In Voskopoja, park at your guesthouse or on the street. In Korca, you must pay to park in the city centre (find a spot, and an attendant will come and find you to exchange cash for a paper ticket that you should display on your windshield).

Do — Kamenica Tumulus Archaeological Museum (optional); Voskopoja (if staying in Korca).

Stay — Villa Domenico (Korca) or Stone Villas (Voskopoja).

Day 12: Full day in Korca

Less than 40 kilometres from the border with Greece, Korca is completely unique among Albania’s cities. Long a stronghold of education and culture, it has its own unique character and – not surprisingly – a strong Greek vibe.

This was our third visit to Korca. We first came here back in 2019 on our way overland to Thessaloniki , and on this trip, we entered Albania via Korca in a taxi from Kastoria .

Between the restored Old Bazaar and the many excellent museums, Korca has enough points of interest for one day. Don’t miss the National Museum of Medieval Art or the Birra Korca Brewery , a delightful beer garden serving Albania’s oldest brew.

This time around we joined the Free Walking Tour of Korca . It is quite casual and fun, and for an introduction and orientation, it’s a good way to spend a couple of hours. Other highlights were eating lakror, a giant pie that is Korca’s specialty dish, at Shija e Saçit , hiking to the Martyrs Cemetery , Varrezat e Dëshmorëve, at sunset, and driving up to the Kryqi Moravë viewpoint just after sunrise.

Do — Climb the Panoramic Tower; visit the National Museum of Medieval Art; walk in the old town & Old Bazaar; drive to the War Memorial & church viewpoint; beers at the Birra Korca brewery.

Stay — Villa Domenico .

Further reading — My Korca city guide .

Day 13: Korca to Lin (Lake Ohrid)

• Distance covered today: 107 kilometres (66 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 3 hours
• Recommended route: SH3 via Sovjan

Having visited the North Macedonian side of Lake Ohrid (and the eponymous Ohrid) back in 2019, I was quite keen to see how the ‘other side’ of the lake compared. We ended up spending two nights in the area, staying in Pogradec (the biggest Albanian city on the lake) and in the cute village of Lin further north.

My conclusion: Albanian Ohrid is sparser and feels more threadbare. While you could happily spend a week in Ohrid city (like we did), Pogradec by comparison is small and a bit dated. You only need to spend one night on the lake – and it should definitely be in Lin.

Pogradec is a quick 50-minute drive from Korca via Sovjan. If you are so inclined, stop off to grab a coffee or breakfast, walk the waterfront promenade, and peek at the old houses in Toplec Quarter ( around this point ).

Another 20 minutes and you will reach Lin , which is everything Pogradec is not (sorry, Pogradec!). Now believed to be the oldest continuously inhabited village in Europe, it boasts Paleo Christian mosaics and Albania’s most photogenic bunker . Like Dhermi, Lin is another small village of cobbled streets and vernacular architecture that was made for wandering.

An hour or so away from Lin, the Royal Tombs of Selca date back to the days of the Illyrian Kingdom and were carved from the rocky terrain between the 4th and 1st centuries BC. Though not at all compulsory, the tombs are an adventure – and the rural location is quite spectacular. On the way, we stopped for the Ottoman-era Golikut Bridge , one of the loveliest stone bridges in Albania.

It is faster and easier to access the tombs from Lin (rather than Pogradec). Presently there are roadworks in this area, which makes it difficult to locate the correct road. Follow the sealed bitumen road as far as you can, past the bridge, turn left onto the new road, then continue along the concrete path.

Despite it being a tentative UNESCO Site, there is next to no signage for the tombs. We parked our car near the lone sign board then took a guess that the tombs would be located on top of the hill – we were right, thankfully. To find them, follow the concrete stairs to the top. The first few tombs are nice, but the most impressive ones are located around the corner.

Back in Lin, we checked into our delightful room at House 1960 , put in our dinner order, and explored the village on foot. The caretaker unveiled a corner of the Lin Mosaic for us (like in Butrint, it is covered in sand for posterity), then we hiked out onto the peninsula to see the bunker caught between the glassy lake and a stormy sky.

Stop — Pogradec; Golikut Bridge; the Royal Tombs of Selca.

Park — Lin village is tiny and parking is very difficult. House 1960 has a designated lot, but it only fits a couple of cars. Be sure to mention that you are driving so that hosts Merita and Emri can save you a spot.

Do — Stroll the waterfront in Pogradec & see the old town; stop at the Golikut Bridge; explore the Royal Tombs of Selca; peek at the Lin Mosaic; hike the peninsular for sunset from the Lin Bunker; fish dinner at House 1960.

Stay — House 1960 .

Further reading — My full guide to visiting Lin .

Day 14: Return to Tirana

• Distance covered today: 106 kilometres (66 miles)
• Recommended route: SH3 via Elbasan

Waking up in Lin on the final morning of our road trip, we took one last walk down to the lakefront and greeted a trio of fishermen just as they were bringing in their haul. In under three hours we would be back in busy Tirana – so we savoured every last vignette of village life.

From Ohrid Lake, it is a straight shot along the highway back to Tirana via Elbasan. We had arranged to return our car in the late afternoon so we paced ourselves with a couple of stops here and there. The city of Elbasan (90 mins) looked interesting and I would have liked to have a proper walk around – maybe next time.

The road between Tirana and Lin follows the communist-era railroad that once connected all of Albania, but has long since been abandoned. Inspired by this guide , we stopped at the impressive Bushtrica Bridge and did a bit of urbexing at the abandoned train station in Xhyre . We also stopped in Perrenjas to photograph the industrial complex that has been decorated with ladybug murals.

Google Maps routed us back into Tirana via the same highway we had left on. We knew exactly where to go to get back to the rental office. Returning the car took less than five minutes, then we jumped a bus back to the city centre. We had enough time for an afternoon walk in the city and dinner in Blloku before flying out the following afternoon back to Kutaisi .

Stop — Lin viewpoint; Perrenjas street art; Xhyre abandoned railway station & bridge; Elbasan (optional).

Do — Early morning walk in Lin to greet the fishermen; stop at the Lin viewpoint; explore the abandoned train station and bridges around Xhyre; lunch in Elbasan (optional); return your car; afternoon walk in Tirana; dinner in Blloku.

Stay — Konak Skanderbeg Square is a self-contained apartment with a shared kitchen. We chose it because of its proximity to the square – it was easy to get to by bus from the rental car office, and easy to get away using the airport bus that also departs from the square ( more information about getting back to Tirana Airport in this guide ).

Albania Travel Guide

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10 Comments

Your blog posts are wonderful ! In 2023 we went to Georgia….incredible country, we visited some unknown places thanks to your blog (and some hikes on wikiloc), what an adventure. In Georgia we rented a car with cars4rent…was a little expensive, but good service (although we had a crack in the front window) We didn’t want to drive in Tblisi, so the guy from cars4rent dropped us off in the outskirts of town. In Georgia, I thought the ” the tourist trap” was in Kazbegi and Mestia. Luckily we did also did some other places, for example Vashlovani…..and some unknown villages en bazaars.

Now about Albania….I’ve read your blog, and again really good info + photos ! Thanks I think that Albania is becoming more touristic since 2019, but I managed to find some hikes and beaches, that hopefully are quite, not so many tourists.

About the car rental: it’s really expensive for 15 days.

I’ve done some investigation tonight, and it seems that Local Rent offers the best prices…but is it te be trusted? I’ve read that you are of fan of Local Rent….so I am curious about what I can experience if a book a car (intermediate suv) with them. Do you have some hints + tips? Thanks

Hi Michael, thanks for your comment!

We rented from Local Rent in Albania (and have rented with them a dozen times in Georgia). Yes, they can be trusted. What specific hints do you need? I have some more information about Local Rent vs big rental companies here in this guide: https://wander-lush.org/driving-in-georgia-car-rental-tbilisi/

Planning a trip to North Macedonia and Albania this summer, and your guides are (as always) amazing and such a plethora of ideas! Thank you from a Swedish reader

Thanks so much, Ulrika! Two of my favourite countries in the region. I hope you have a wonderful trip!

What an informative article. I have not visited Albania, but it is high on my list. This will make planning and decisions much easier.

Thank you for all your helpful travel information.

Sylvia Short USA

Thanks Sylvia, I hope you get a chance to visit Albania soon!

Thank you so much for all of those information !!! it will really help me. I read that you need to have a 4×4 to drive around in permet, because of the road, but you look fine in the fiesta? was there a disclosure in the car location that you have to stay in paved road? thank you sooo much!!!

Hi Magali – that was probably true this time last year, but in summer they redid all the roads. Apart from the short section that I mention, it is completely new and sealed. The unsealed part is still a road, it’s just a bit rough. We had to take it slow, but we had no issues at all with our small car.

What a wonderful description of your trip. It’s so detailed and beats many well-known guidebooks. Having visited Albania it brought back memories. I look forward to reading about other journeys. Bravo and thank you so much.

Thanks so much Tony! It was an incredible trip!

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The Perfect 5 to 7 Days in Albania Itinerary

Published on October 25, 2023

by Michael Rozenblit

Disclaimer: This article contains affiliate links. That means if you click a link and make a purchase, we may make a small commission. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. For more information, see our privacy policy.

As one of the more off-the-beaten-path destinations in Europe (and even in the Balkans) planning out the perfect Albania itinerary can seem a bit of a challenge. Figuring out where to go, what to see and how to get around when you only have 5 to 7 days in Albania can seem a bit overwhelming.

Albania is a beautiful country in the southeast of Europe with miles and miles of gorgeous Adriatic coastline to rival that of Croatia and Montenegro, vibrant cities that pulse with youthful energy and life and historic ruins with a fraction of the crowds that you’ll find in neighbouring Greece.

If you are considering a trip to Albania and don’t know where to start, then this itinerary is sure to be a help. In it, we outline a route so you can figure out how to spend five to seven days (or more!) exploring this gorgeous Balkan nation.

Table of Contents

How Many Days in Albania?

Before mapping out the details of your route, you’re likely wondering how many days in Albania in order to see a lot of diverse places and also not feel rushed (or spend too much time in transit and not enough time in the destinations itself).

In general, plan to spend at the very least 5 days in Albania if you want to see more than just the capital. Ideally, you would want a week or more if you want to spend time in an array of different locations in the country.

Albania is not a large country, however, it can take a bit of time to get from one point to another so this is something to keep in mind when figuring out how many days to set aside for your itinerary. There are also a surprising amount of great places to visit that really deserve the time, so if you can, try to spend one week in Albania.

Even if you only have 5 days to spend, you will still be able to take in a great deal of sites and historic towns and cities in the centre of the country. While you may not have all the time to see the southern Adriatic coast or some of the ancient ruins the country has to offer, it’s enough time to get a good feel for the nation.

Getting To & Around Albania

If you plan to simply visit Albania as a stand-alone trip, then your best bet is to fly into Tirana’s international airport. There are quite a few connections to Tirana from destinations all over Europe, so it’s easy to get to from abroad.

Many travellers also head to Albania as part of a longer trip through the Balkans or Greece. If you’re coming from elsewhere in the Balkans. you can arrive to Albania via bus from Montenegro, North Macedonia or Kosovo. Most major cities in these areas have connections to Tirana and it can be a great continuation for your trip.

If you’re travelling to Albania from Greece, you can reach the country via ferry from Corfu or overland from the mainland. Regardless, it would make the most sense to do this route in reverse – beginning in Sarande and ending in Tirana.

Once in Albania, it can be tough to figure out how to get around. In the cities like Tirana, you can generally rely on your own two feet while there. And if you want to get around via public transport, this is definitely a viable option.

There is a robust bus network in Albania, however, it can be a bit of a challenge to navigate it and to figure out where there are connections. If you’re in doubt, always check with the reception at your accommodation – they will likely be able to set you in the right direction.

If you are adventurous and want to take the most control over your trip to Albania, then consider hiring a car .

Driving in Albania can be a bit chaotic and it’s best if you feel you are experienced, however, it can be worth it if you want to have the most freedom in your itinerary and want to venture even further off the beaten path. An Albania road trip is a great idea if you’re a confident driver!

5 to 7-Day Albania Itinerary

Day 1 – tirana.

The most logical starting point for any Albania trip is its capital city of Tirana . Located in the north centre of the country, spending a couple of days exploring this dynamic and chaotic city is essential whenever you travel to Albania.

Spend your first day seeing the highlights of Tirana. It’s a pretty compact city and most things are located within easy reach of one another, however, there is a lot packed into a small area. To learn more about the history of the city, consider joining a free walking tour  or  a paid walking tour  of the city.

Begin in Skanderbeg Square, the main gathering point in the city. From there, you can visit the National History Museum and take in the imposing Et’hem Bej Mosque.

Those interested in Albania’s communist history will be interested in the House of Leaves Museum and, of course, you cannot miss a stroll along the pedestrianised Rruga Murat Toptani and exploring the Fortress of Justinian area.

Where to Stay in Tirana

Hotel Antigone – Centrally located in the heart of Tirana, this 3-star hotel has a range of rooms along with breakfast, room service and an on-site restaurant and bar.

Hotel Boutique Vila 135 – This luxury hotel in the centre of Tirana has amenities like breakfast, a restaurant/bar on site, parking included and an airport shuttle. There are several plush rooms on offer.

Trip’n Hostel   – Offering both dorms and private rooms, this hostel is centrally located and has great common areas for guests to enjoy. A perfect option for budget and solo travellers.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse more Tirana hotels!

Day 2 – Tirana

Your second day should also be dedicated to digging deeper in Tirana and seeing more of what this city has to offer.

Spend some time at the Bunk’Art 2 Museum, a converted communist-era bunker turned history museum. Then, cross the river over the Tanner’s Bridge and take some time to explore the Blloku neighbourhood.

Here, you can take in iconic buildings like the Pyramid of Tirana (built as a museum dedicated to former dictator Enver Hoxha) and take in Mother Teresa Square or visit the Grand Park of Tirana. After taking in this area of the city, it’s time to get a great view.

Ride the cable car (known as the Dajti Express) to the top of Moun Dajti, a mountain overlooking the city. Here, there are plenty of fun activities, such as mini golf and rollerblading.

Day 3 – Durres

After a couple of days exploring Tirana, it’s time to move on and see some other areas of the country. Plan to spend the majority of your day in the coastal town of Durres, however, where you choose to spend the night is up to you.

Especially if you’re travelling around by a rental car, it can be easy to stop in Durres for the day and end in Berat to spend the night.

You could also do this if travelling by bus as the buses from Tirana to Berat stop in Durres, so it is on the way – if you are taking public transport, you will have to find storage for your luggage, which can be an inconvenience. You could also opt to spend the night in Durres and continue onto Berat first thing the next morning.

Durres is located only about 30 minutes drive and 45 minutes on the bus from Tirana. Once you’re there, the best activity is to simply take the time to lounge on the beautiful beach and enjoy the gorgeous Adriatic.

You can also take in historic sites – most notably the Durres Amphitheatre. This massive amphitheatre dates back to the 2nd century CE and is very impressive. History buffs will also love the Archaeological Museum, which houses artefacts from the Hellenistic, Greek and Roman periods.

Where to Stay in Berat

Hotel Bila Nino – This 3-star hotel in Berat has a number of comfortable rooms along with a garden, terrace and bar for guests to enjoy. There is also free parking on site.

Hotel Republika Berat – A good luxury option, this 4-star hotel is located in the centre of Berat. They have a range of rooms to choose from, private parking, an airport shuttle and breakfast each morning.

Berat Backpackers Hostel – Backpackers and budget travellers will love this highly-rated hostel. Located in an old house in central Berat, they have great common areas and both dorms and private rooms.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse more Berat hotels!

Day 4 – Berat

Day four of this itinerary for Albania is dedicated to exploring the historic town of Berat. Known as the “town of a thousand windows,” this medieval town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Home to Albania’s largest castle (the Berat Kala), there is a lot of history to take in here and it is absolutely beautiful.

Berat is known for its wide collection of beautifully preserved Ottoman-era houses that decorate the historic Mangalem quarter of the Old Town – this was the traditional Muslim area of the city. The other part of the old town – Gorica, located across the river – was the historic Christian quarter of Berat.

While in this beautiful city, take the time to wander around the old town and feel its living history. Of course, you cannot miss a hike up to the castle – which will provide excellent views of the city below. There is also a lovely, village-like atmosphere around the castle. There are walking tours available if you want to explore with a guide.

If you want to venture a bit outside the city centre, then there are also some wineries where you can sample some locally-made vintages or you can join a cooking class to learn more about traditional Albanian cuisine. You can also head out to the nearby Bogove Waterfall.

In the evening, you can’t miss a stroll along Boulevard Republika – the main pedestrianised thoroughfare in Berat. This provides excellent people-watching opportunities and an unrivalled energy.

Day 5 – Gjirokaster

If you’re seeing Albania in 5 days, this is the final day for you – and boy, is it a great one! Your destination for this day is the beautiful UNESCO-listed town of Gjirokaster. Located in the south of Albania, you’re going to need to have an early start to get here – especially if you’re taking the bus! Getting from Berat to Gjirokaster will take about 3 hours.

Known as the Stone City, Gjirokaster is an absolutely beautiful, historic city that should not be missed when you visit Albania. In modern times, it’s known as the birthplace of Enver Hoxha, the former Albanian dictator, however, there is plenty of other history here as well.

Of course, no visit to Gjirokaster is complete without wandering around the medieval-era castle, which was originally constructed in the 13th Century. Also, make sure to take the time to stroll through the Old Bazaar, where you can browse through artisan shops and maybe pick up some interesting souvenirs from your trip.

While wandering around the old town, take in the historic, Ottoman-era stone houses – these historic homes are part of the reason that Gjirokaster is inscribed on the UNESCO list.

Where to Stay in Gjirokaster

Hotel Bebej Tradicional – This rustic 3-star hotel is located in the centre of historic Gjirokaster. They have several great rooms to choose from, free parking and a restaurant on the premises.

The Stone Sky Hotel – This lovely hotel has a range of comfortable rooms for guests to choose from. There is also breakfast each morning, free parking, 24-hour reception and a restaurant/bar.

Stone City Hostel – A great option for backpackers and solo visitors, this highly-rated hostel has a number of room types to choose from, great common areas and a kitchen and day trips are organised.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse more Gjirokaster hotels!

Day 6 – Sarande

If you’re seeing Albania in one week, then you don’t need to get as early a start as previous days – especially if you feel there is more to see in Gjirokaster! You can spend your morning here – perhaps visiting somewhere like the Cold War Tunnel Museum. This 800-metre tunnel was built as a bunker during communist times and has now been turned into a museum.

After a morning in Gjirokaster, you don’t have a long journey to the final destination of your Albania travel itinerary – Sarande, a city on the Albanian Riviera. This is one of Albania’s most popular coastal cities and it is only about 1-1.5 hours away from Gjirokaster – there are several buses that depart each day.

If you’re self-driving, consider making a detour to the famous Blue Eye – a gorgeous natural spring filled with crystal-clear water located in between Sarande and Gjirokaster.

Once you arrive in Sarande, take the time to stroll around the lovely seaside and take in the views of the gorgeous Ionian Sea.

There are plenty of beautiful beaches to lounge on along with a ruined castle to walk up to and enjoy panoramic views of the city and the sea. Plan to spend the rest of your time in Albania with Sarande as a base.

Where to Stay in Sarande

Hotel Kanes – This seaside hotel is great for visitors to Sarande. There are several rooms to choose from – many with sea views. There is a terrace to enjoy along with an airport shuttle and free parking.

Buzë Boutique Hotel – Located right on the beach, this trendy hotel has a beautiful outdoor swimming pool, a private beach area, a terrace and an on-site bar to enjoy a drink in the sunshine.

Saranda Backpackers – This waterfront hostel is a great option for budget travellers to Sarande. They have plenty of different rooms to choose from and great common areas.

Day 7 – Ksamil & Butrint

On your final day in the country, take a day trip from Sarande to the areas of Ksamil and Butrint National Park to the south of the city. Both areas are easily reached via bus from Sarande in about 30 – 40 minutes and buses leave frequently throughout the day.

Whether you’re driving yourself or taking the bus, start your day by visiting Butrint National Park, which is located furthest south on the route. This archaeological park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (there are so many in Albania! ) and is filled with fascinating ancient Greek and Roman ruins that will really put into perspective just how old and how long people have inhabited this area of the world.

In the park, you can see ruins of ancient forums, amphitheatres and temples. Set along the backdrop of the Ionian Sea, it is truly a wonderful place to end your trip and visiting here is one of the best things to do in Albania.

After exploring the park, hop on the bus (or get back in the car) and head a bit north to Ksamil . This area is home to some of Albania’s best sandy beaches and it is the perfect place to lounge around in the gorgeous sunshine and swim. You can enjoy views of Corfu not far in the distance, along with seeing some of the picturesque Ksamil islands.

If you’re leaving Albania after this day, the quickest and easiest way is to fly out via the airport on nearby Corfu in Greece, which is easily reached via ferry in about 1.5-2 hours. Alternatively, you can continue on to mainland Greece via bus or car – the closest major city is Ioannina.

Have More Time?

There are lots of different options of places to visit in Albania if you have more time. For instance, if you’re coming from Montenegro or North Macedonia (or continuing on there from Albania), it can be worth spending some time in the north of the country.

The town of Shkoder in the north of the country is gorgeous and has a lovely location on the massive Lake Shkoder – sharing a border with Montenegro.

Those looking to get up in the mountains or who want to add some activity to their trip will love exploring the Albanian Alps in the northeast of the country. Particularly popular is the Valbona to Theth hike, a thru-hiking route that takes about 8 hours to complete from one village to another in some of Albania’s most beautiful national parks.

If you want to experience more of Albania’s coast, then it can be a great idea to add a stop in the lovely coastal city of Vlore in between visiting Berat and Gjirokaster.

Vlore has plenty of beautiful, sandy beaches and is considered to be one of the oldest cities in Albania. Make sure to take the time to stroll through the historic centre of the city while enjoying the vast seaside promenade.

Travelling in Albania is one of the most interesting, challenging and diverse places to head to in all of Europe. Retaining an off-the-beaten-path charm and boasting a broad and varied history, Albania is a destination that no visitor soon forgets.

Are you planning on visiting Albania? Have any questions about this itinerary? Let us know in the comments!

Related Posts:

The Perfect 1, 2 or 3 Days in Tirana Itinerary

How To Plan a Split to Mostar Day Trip

The Perfect 2, 3 or 4 Days in Hvar Itinerary

About Michael Rozenblit

Michael is a co-founder and writer for The World Was Here First. Both solo and with his partner, Maggie, he has travelled to over 50 countries across the globe and has a particular affinity for the Balkans and Eastern Europe. He’s lived in numerous countries worldwide but currently resides in his hometown of Melbourne, Australia. Read more about Michael

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Albania Travel Guide

Last Updated: August 18, 2024

Albania is one of Europe’s best-kept secrets. Though it increases in popularity each year, the country is largely ignored by tourists; many still think of it as a post-communist backwater (as if the world hasn’t changed in the last 30 years).

Yet this is a land of untouched natural beauty, with a rich history dating back to the ancient Illyrians and Greeks. It has become a solid favorite of backpackers looking for an affordable, off-the-beaten-path destination to explore.

I absolutely loved my time visiting Albania. It’s a country full of good food and welcoming people. I enjoyed it so much that I extended my stay.

Hikers and nature lovers can partake of all the hiking and trekking here, beach lovers have the Albanian Riviera along the Ionian coast, and history buffs can marvel at the country’s uncrowded UNESCO sites in Butrint (an ancient Roman city), Berat, and Gjirokastër.

Albania is on the up and up, with more tourists visiting each year. I think it will become as popular (and expensive) as Croatia in the next couple of years, so visit now before the crowds come!

This travel guide to Albania can help you plan your trip, save money, and make the most of your time in this underrated destination!

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• How to Stay Safe
• Where to Stay
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• How to Get Around
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Albania

Click Here for City Guides

Top 5 things to see and do in albania.

1. Explore Tirana

Albania’s capital is rapidly transforming into a vibrant, cosmopolitan city, with its bustling cafes, eclectic museums, and trendy shops and galleries. Sip coffee at one of many espresso bars, dive into the developing digital nomad scene, soak up history in Skanderbeg Square, and enjoy the city’s booming nightlife. For a hefty dose of local culture, check out Bunk’Art, a former bunker built during the Cold War that’s since been turned into an interactive art space. If you’re in town for more than a couple of days, take the Dajti Ekspres to the top of the nearby mountain, check out the cave of Pellumbas, or go and explore the Roman and Byzantine ruins in nearby Durrës.

2. Visit the historic town of Berat

A city that’s been around for 2,400 years, Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the highlights of visiting Albania . It’s also known as “the City of a Thousand Windows” because of its unique white-walled Ottoman homes, picturesquely stacked atop one another on a crumbling hillside and characterized by their many windows. Visitors should make it a point to wander around Kala, an ancient neighborhood with panoramic views, historic mosques and churches, and a 14th-century castle. There are also a number of noteworthy museums in Berat, including the Ethnographic Museum, which is housed in an ornate 18th-century Ottoman home.

3. Drive the Llogara Pass

The Llogara Pass is a steep (at times the incline is 11%), winding road that rises over a thousand meters (3,500 feet) into the mountains and overlooks the glittering Ionian coast, which has been nicknamed the Albanian Riviera. This road goes from Orikum to Dhërmi, and there are lots of scenic stops along the way. If you need to stretch your legs, the trails at Llogara Pass National Park are a fantastic place to do so. Post-hike, grab lunch at one of the many roadside restaurants in the park. Though it used to be a dangerous and narrow road, the Llogara Pass was repaved in 2009. It’s still a tricky route, but it’s worth it — this is the most scenic drive in the country (and one of the most scenic drives in all of Europe).

4. Hike from Valbona to Theth

T of the most famous day hikes in Albania, this is an old mule trail that leads you across the Accursed Mountains. This section is moderately challenging and takes around eight hours in total. There are fresh water springs along the way, as well as some cafes on the route, but make sure you bring plenty of water just in case. It’s a stunning area with an abundance of flora, fauna, and wildlife to see. In Theth, there are some other hikes as well. Most notably, the Blue Eye of Theth is a shockingly blue pool of water fed by a small waterfall that can be reached in about three hours (one way) from Theth.

5. Wander around Gjirokastër

Also protected by UNESCO, Gjirokastër is famous for its stonework. Wander the cobblestone streets, hike and explore the castle, swim in nearby waterfalls, and visit the best examples of Ottoman-era architecture in the area. There’s a C old W ar museum here that’s housed in an old 800-meter-long (2,624-foot) bunker from the 1970’s. Close to the nearby village of Muzinë is the incredible natural spring called the Blue Eye. Gjirokastër, for me, is one of the best spots in the country.

Other Things to See and Do in Albania

1. relax on the albanian riviera.

Pristine beaches, turquoise water, cheap and delicious seafood — the Albanian coast has all the beauty and wonders of Croatia, without the high prices and crowds (for now). Dhërmi and Ksamil are considered to have the best beaches in the country, with miles of white, sandy beachfront. If you want a busier beach destination, go to Himarë, where the beach has a promenade lined with cafés and bars. For something more off the beaten path, make your way to Gjipe Beach. For a bustling, developed beach town, visit Sarandë, which is packed with hotels, restaurants, and nightlife.

2. Enjoy the view from Rozafa Castle

Situated near Shkodër in northwestern Albania, the 4th-century Rozafa Castle has panoramic views of the area, including the Buna and Drin Rivers. The fortifications here originally date to the 10th century BCE, when the Illyrians lived in the area (the current castle replaced those fortifications). Legend has it that a young woman sacrificed her life to imbue the castle walls with longevity. There isn’t a whole lot to see here, but the ruins are impressive, and it’s a good spot from which to watch the sunset. The Shkodër History Museum provides a great overview of the castle’s past, including the background of the medieval families who lived here. Admission is 150 ALL.

3. Visit the National Museum of History

The National Museum of History in Tirana offers a view of the country’s rich history and is divided into eight sections: antiquity, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, independence, iconography, the National Liberation Anti-Fascism War, the Communist Terror, and Mother Teresa (who was born in Albania). There’s a remarkable collection of ancient Greek and Roman mosaics, columns, and statues unearthed in Albania as well. The collection is extensive, so give yourself around three hours here. Handily, nearly the entire collection is signed in English. Admission is 500 ALL.

4. Explore the ancient ruins of Butrint

Greeks from nearby Corfu settled Butrint in the 6th century BCE. It quickly became a large trading city that was still prosperous when the Romans took over in 167 BCE. Nowadays, you can wander the pathways between what’s left of the city, including well-preserved arches and colonnades. In 2003, Butrint was awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. It makes for an ideal day trip from Sarandë. I took my time there and spent about three hours exploring the ruins. The entrance fee is 700 ALL and the 45-minute bus ride costs 100 ALL.

5. Admire the art at Bunk’Art

Bunk’Art 1 and 2 are former bunkers that have been turned into museums and galleries underneath Tirana. Built in the 1970s for Albania’s elite, the bunkers’ 100 rooms have now been transformed into a museum and art space. Bunk’Art 1, located on the outskirts of Tirana, focuses on Albania’s communist past and the lives of average people under communism. Bunk’Art 2, the more recent addition, is located right in Tirana; it focuses more on the secret police that were used by the regime to terrorize the population and maintain order. Admission is 500 ALL.

6. See the ancient ruins at Apollonia

Like Butrint, Apollonia was one of the most important cities in the ancient world. The Greeks founded it in 588 BCE, and it fast grew into a city-state with a huge slave trade (just like Butrint). The Romans took over in 229 BCE, when it became a cultural center with an important philosophy school. Even Julius Caesar sent his nephew (Octavius, who became Emperor Augustus) to study there. Today you can visit the ruins (a UNESCO Heritage Site), which include a theater and the restored façade of the administrative center. Admission is 300 ALL.

7. Visit Shkodër

As the largest town in the north (and home to the Rozafa Castle), it plays host to many of the country’s biggest festivals like Carnival, Lake Day, and the Shkodra Jazz Festival. The city’s Old Town is filled with picturesque, pastel-colored homes and buildings. A lot of people breeze through Shkodër on their way to Montenegro from Tirana, but I recommend spending a day or two here. Check out one of the interesting museums here, like the Marubi National Photography Museum and the Site of Witness & Memory Museum. The former is an Albanian photographic museum; the latter commemorates the victims of the communist regime in the city. e to get to Valbonë. If you don’t want to do that, there are day trips available. You can spend a couple of hours on the lake before going up the Shala River, where you can eat lunch, rent a kayak, or chill on the “beach” (the rocky embankment). The mountain water of the Shala is super clear and clean; it looks almost tropical. The restaurants here also rent rooms (or let you camp for free) if you want to stay the night.

9. Go hiking

Albania has lots of incredibly scenic hikes. If you spend most of your time in the south, you’ll get your pick of coastal hikes along the Ionian Sea, including Mount Çika and through the Ceraunian Mountains. In the north, the hike over the Valbona Pass to the village of Theth is popular for a reason; it’s an incredibly beautiful route (and not for the faint of heart). Routes around the country vary in length and difficulty and trekking information isn’t readily available — large parts of these hikes are still undeveloped, so hire a guide if you want to explore. Outdoor Albania has lots of options to help you get started.

10. Take a wine tour

Albania has one of the oldest winemaking traditions in all of Europe. Albanian wine makes use of incredibly rare grapes, and some of the traditional practices date back to the Bronze Age. Many wineries are family-owned and located in breathtaking settings. You can take wine tours from Berat, Lezhë, and Tirana, on which you can sample some of the country’s finest. Expect to pay at least 6,500 ALL for a day trip.

11. Get spooked at Sazan

The “ghost” island of Sazan is a 30-minute boat ride from the southern port town of Vlorë. It served as a Soviet military base and chemical weapons facility for many years before being abandoned. In 2017, the government opened it for tourism, although officially it remains a military base. The rooms in this vast network of nuclear bunkers and tunnels are still stocked with beds and kitchen supplies, and you can still find abandoned gas masks in the valley nearby. Tours don’t run all the time, so you need to ask in the tourist information office in Vlorë. They can book you onto a tour if they are running. Expect to pay 3,500 ALL or more for a day tour to the island.

12. Hike Osumi Canyon

This gorgeous river canyon in southern Albania makes for the perfect day trip from Berat. It is over three million years old, stretches for 40 kilometers (25 miles), and towers 40 meters (131 feet) above the river. The most popular way to see it up close is with a rafting tour. Tours are available February-June and start at 7,000 ALL per person, which includes transportation from Berat, lunch, and 2-4 hours on the water. You can also opt to hike down through the canyon and explore the ancient rock formations and caves via a 12-kilometer trail.

13. Visit the House of Leaves

The Museum of Secret Surveillance, aka the House of Leaves, is an award-winning museum in Tirana located in the old Sigurimi building (the Sigurimi were the secret police). The building was originally used by the Gestapo during the German occupation, continuing as a base of operations for the secret police until 1991. The exhibitions highlight what life was like under German and then communist rule, shedding light on the methods used to spy on, prosecute, and execute enemies of the regime. It’s sobering but incredibly insightful. Anyone even remotely interested in the dark side of Albania’s past will find this museum fascinating. Admission is 700 ALL.

How to Stay Safe in Albania

Albania is generally a safe country to visit. Violent crime is rare but petty crime can be an issue so don’t flaunt your possessions and always make sure your valuables are out of reach while on crowded buses.

Solo female travelers should generally feel safe here, however, the standard precautions apply (never leave your drink unattended at the bar, never walk home alone intoxicated, etc.).

If you’re using public transportation in Tirana, pickpocketing can be a concern, as in most other urban areas around the world. Never set down valuable items; keep them tucked away out of sight.

Locals are really proud of their country, and Albanian culture has a long tradition of guest hospitality. Moreover, Albania is a “nighttime” country (i.e., people stay out late), so there are always eyes and ears out, keeping would-be criminals in check. (Many of the women I met there told me they feel very safe walking around at night for that reason.)

The main danger in Albania is reckless driving. Albania has some of the highest road fatality rates per capita in all of Europe, so be sure to pay extra attention when driving or while walking near busy roads.

Near the border with Kosovo, landmines can still be found. Avoid hiking off the marked trails there, and keep an eye out for signs and warnings.

Scams aren’t super common, but they do occur. You can read about common travel scams to avoid here .

If you experience an emergency, dial 112 for assistance.

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. This protects you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations . It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it, as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. You can use the widget below to find the policy right for you:

Where to Stay in Albania

You won’t find many hostels outside of the main tourist cities, but private guest houses are pretty cheap in the countryside anyway. Here are some of my favorite places to stay in Albania:

• Saranda Backpackers (Sarandë)
• Trip’n’Hostel (Tirana)
• Friends Hostel (Gjirokastër)
• Himara Relax Hostel (Himarë)
• The Wanderer’s Hostel (Shokder)

Albania Travel Costs

Accommodation

• Hostel Dorms – 950-1,340 ALL per night
• Hostel private rooms – 2,450-5,000 ALL per night
• Budget hotels – 2,500-3,500 ALL per night
• Airbnb private rooms – 1,800-3,600 ALL per night
• Airbnb apartments – 5,800 ALL per night
• Campsite – 1,200 ALL per night
• Sit-down restaurants – 500-2,000 ALL
• Casual take-out places – 550-900 ALL
• Fast food (think McDonald’s) – 600 ALL
• Beer – 150 ALL
• Glass of wine – 150-250 ALL
• Cappuccino/latte- 140 ALL
• Bottled water – 70 ALL
• Groceries for a week – 2,500-3,500 ALL

Albania Suggested Budgets

Backpacker – 4,400 all per day.

A backpacking budget covers a hostel dorm, cooking your meals, limiting your drinking, using public transportation to get around, and sticking to free and cheap activities like hiking and free tours. If you plan on drinking a lot add another 500-1,000 ALL to your daily budget.

Midrange – 9,000 ALL Per Day

On a mid-range budget, you can stay in a private hostel room or private Airbnb. You’ll be able to eat out for most meals, enjoy a few drinks at the bar, see more museums and palaces, do a day trip or two, and take the occasional taxi to get around.

Upscale – 15,000+ ALL Per Day

On a “luxury” budget, you can stay in a hotel, eat out for all your meals, see all the sites you want, do lots of day tours, and take taxis where you want. This is just the ground floor for luxury. The sky’s the limit!

Albania Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

Albania is an affordable country to visit. You’ll be hard-pressed to spend a lot of money, even if you’re staying in private rooms or hotels. You really have to go out of your way to spend money here. But, if you are looking to travel cheap, here are some tips on how to save money:

• Bring a water bottle – The tap water here usually isn’t safe to drink, so bring a reusable water bottle to save money and reduce your plastic use. LifeStraw is my go-to brand, as their bottles have built-in filters to ensure that your water is always clean and safe.
• Take a free walking tour – Tirana Free Tour offers a free walking tour that highlights the city and its sites. There are also free walking tours in Berat and Shokdër. Just be sure to tip your guide at the end!
• Cook your own meals – Many hostels here include kitchen facilities, so if you want to save money, cook your own meals. Groceries are cheap here and there are a lot of farmer’s markets around where you can pick up fresh produce.
• Stay with a local – Staying with a local via Couchsurfing is a great way to save money and connect with a knowledgeable local who can share their insider tips and advice.
• Bunk up in a hostel – Hostels in Albania are cheap, especially if you book a shared room.
• Walk everywhere – Most towns and cities in Albania are walkable, so skip the public transportation and taxis to save money.
• Enjoy the outdoors – There are plenty of free hiking trails and outdoor activities around the country that can fill your days.
• Take advantage of wild camping – As it is legal to camp anywhere in Albania, traveling with a tent, or in a camper van, is the perfect way to save money on accommodation.

How to Get Around in Albania

Public transportation – In most towns and cities, almost everywhere is accessible on foot. Otherwise, take the bus. The fares cost around 40 ALL per ride.

To get from the airport to Tirana, the cheapest way is via the airport shuttle. It runs from 6am until 6pm and drops you off near the National Museum of Tirana. It costs 400 ALL (one-way) and takes around 30 minutes. Alternatively, you can take a taxi for around 2,500 ALL.

Taxi – Taxis are readily available in all the major cities. Expect to pay 300 ALL to turn on the meter plus another 300 ALL for every kilometer. A lot of taxis will try to quote you a price instead of using the meter, which is almost always overly inflated. Make sure they put on the meter to avoid getting ripped off.

Train – Albania has a small rail network, but I never saw or heard of anyone taking it. The locals I talked to say it is too unreliable and slow. Buses are much faster, cheaper, and more reliable so use them instead.

Bus – Buses are the main form of inter-transportation in the country. They loosely follow a timetable. From major cities and starting points, they tend to leave on time but after that don’t count on it. But getting to your destination? Add an hour buffer just to be safe. The roads are always jammed and aren’t in great shape, so on-time arrivals are rare.

Buses cost from 300 ALL to over 1,000 ALL depending on how far you go. A bus from Sarandë to Tirana takes about 5 hours and costs about 1,700 ALL, while Berat to Tirana costs about 400 ALL and takes under three hours. The two-hour journey from Vlorë to Berat is around 400 ALL.

Pre-booking is never necessary. Just show up at the bus station and grab your ticket.

To find bus routes and prices, use BusBud .

Car Rental – Car rentals start at 1,500 ALL per day. The roads are in bad shape, so be sure to drive carefully. Drivers need an International Driving Permit (IDP) to rent a car here.For the best car rental prices, use Discover Cars .

Hitchhiking – Hitchhiking is generally safe in Albania. It’s very common, and there are lots of travelers doing it. It’s pretty easy to find a ride here. HitchWiki is the best website for more hitchhiking info.

When to Go to Albania

Albania has a Mediterranean climate, which means super-hot summers (July-August), with a daily temperature averaging over 32°C (90°F), mild winters on the coast, and cold winters in the mountains (November-February).

The best time to visit Albania is during the spring (May-June) or fall (September-October). During this time, the weather is mild, with average daily temperatures around 21°C (70°F), making it perfect for hiking and other outdoor activities.

Of course, if you want to enjoy Albania’s incredible coastline, the best time to come is during the summer. Albania is not yet a huge tourism draw in Europe, so it is rare to find sites and attractions overly crowded, and prices don’t inflate much during peak season. It’s sweltering at that time of year, however, so come prepared for hot weather!

Those who want to get the most bang for their buck should plan to travel during the off season, from November to March. Prices are at their cheapest — though it must be said that the weather can get very cold. If you’re visiting the coastal areas, don’t expect to be able to swim.

Albania Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• HostelPass – This new card gives you up to 20% off hostels throughout Europe. It’s a great way to save money. They’re constantly adding new hostels too. I’ve always wanted something like this and glad it finallt exists.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• The Man in Seat 61 – This website is the ultimate guide to train travel anywhere in the world. They have the most comprehensive information on routes, times, prices, and train conditions. If you are planning a long train journey or some epic train trip, consult this site.
• Rome2Rio – This website allows you to see how to get from point A to point B the best and cheapest way possible. It will give you all the bus, train, plane, or boat routes that can get you there as well as how much they cost.
• FlixBus – Flixbus has routes between 20 European countries with prices starting as low 5 EUR! Their buses include WiFi, electrical outlets, a free checked bag.
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!

GO DEEPER: Nomadic Matt’s In-Depth Budget Guide to Europe!

There’s a lot of free information online but do you want to spend days searching for information? Prob not! That’s why guidebooks exist.

While I have a lot of free tips on Europe, I also wrote an entire book that goes into great detail on everything you need to plan a trip here on a budget! You’ll get suggested itineraries, budgets, even more ways to save money, my favorite restaurants, prices, practical information (i.e. phone numbers, websites, prices, safety advice, etc etc), and cultural tips.

I’ll give the insider view of Europe that I got from years of traveling and living here! The downloadable guide can be used on your Kindle, iPad, phone, or computer so you can have it with you when you go. Click here to learn more about my book on Europe!

Albania Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more tips for your trip? Check out all the articles I’ve written on Albania travel and continue planning your trip:

Albania: An Unexpected Journey

Albania: A Case for Sustainable Tourism

My Step-By-Step Guide to Backpacking Europe

Get your  free travel starter kit.

Enter your email and get planning cheatsheets including a step by step checklist, packing list, tips cheat sheet, and more so you can plan like a pro!

• Where To Stay
• Transportation
• Booking Resources
• Related Blogs

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• Sustainable travel tips
• Packing light
• Sustainable travel products
• Volunteering
• Why sustainable travel
• El Salvador

Albania | along coastal roads, canyons & clear blue rivers

Imagine cruising along winding serpentines while you gaze at the loud blue sea, the windows down, and the breeze of the Ionian Sea dancing through your hair. A sun-salt smell runs up your nose. As you stretch out your hand you can feel the freedom! Soon, you’re driving next to turquoise rivers and can’t believe your eyes as you see the massive canyon right beside you. You’ll be surprised at what spectacular nature awaits you on your Albania itinerary.

Table of contents

Cities to visit on your Albania itinerary

Todo in tirana:.

• Join a free walking tour – The best way to learn about Albania’s and Tirana’s history and some fun facts
• Visit a bunker museum – Further out of the city there’s BUNK’ART 1, and BUNK’ART 2 right in Tirana’s center. Both are important museums that deliver insight into the dark past of communism and war in Albania (BUNK’ART 1 giving a broad overview of the history, and BUNK’ART 2 displaying a dark human point of view).
• Skanderbeg Square & the old Mosque – A historical place named after the Albanian national hero during Ottoman times. On the square, you can find the beautiful old Et’hem Bej Mosque, one of the few that had survived war times.
• Pazari i Ri – The large bazaar full of groceries in one of the oldest parts of Tirana.
• Tirana Castle – A medieval castle of which only a wall from the Ottoman era remains today, nowadays housing handicraft stores & cafes.
• Hoxha Pyramide – a lost place right in Tirana that used to be the most expensive building in Albania (named after the dictator) that’s currently under construction to become a museum.

Stay in Tirana:

• Hotel/Apartment: Rooftop Tirana   – Beautiful, modern apartments in the heart of Tirana with everything you need (especially parking which is important on an Albania itinerary by car).
• Hostel: Tirana Backpacker Hostel   – The perfect place to meet fellow travelers with a funky backyard and awesome breakfast.

Hotel recommendation for Tirana: Rooftop Tirana

These small but modern apartments in the heart of Tirana have everything you need (especially with parking, which can be tricky on a road trip in Albania’s capital). From here you can walk everywhere and enjoy the view over the city in the evening. In my opinion, also an unbeatable price! But be sure to contact the host before you arrive, because the apartments are hard to find.

Contrasts in Tirana

ToDo in Berat:

• Castle – Walk up to the castle and enjoy the view
• Stroll through the old town and cross the bridge – for a great view of the old town and its windows
• Join a free walking tour   – for great insights into the history and myths of this town
• Head to the beautiful vineyard Alpeta – for a wine tasting and a tour for only 15 Euros
• Osumi Canyon – A perfect day trip into Albania’s most stunning nature

Eat in Berat:

• Temi Albanian Food – Authentic, homemade food in an old alley up the hill with many vegetarian options and unbeatable prices
• Lili Homemade Food – A great place to try traditional food close to Berat’s center

Stay in Berat:

• Alpeta Agroturism   – A short drive from Berat you can stay in the vineyard’s lovely rooms in the middle of hills covered with olive trees
• Xho’s Forest – A small B&B with four rooms close to Berat’s historical center with a lush garden where you can have breakfast in the shade of the trees among many cute cats and extremely welcoming owners
• Berat Backpackers Hostel – It was the second hostel in Albania and has a beautiful outdoor area in a traditional building
• Maya Hostel – Another gem with a lovely garden right in the center of Berat

Hotel recommendation for Berat: Alpeta Agroturism

Just a short drive from Berat, you can stay in the beautiful rooms of this winery set amidst hills covered with olive trees. A super beautiful, authentic experience in the middle of the vineyards of Albania. Don’t miss to join a Wine Tasting there in the evening – when the welcoming father joins in, it can quickly turn into a Raki Tasting as well. We had a super nice evening there that felt like a vacation at friends’ homes.

If you’re short on time you can visit Berat on a day trip from Tirana.

Berat & its surrounding vineyards

Gjirokaster

Todo in gjirokaster.

• The castle – for a spectacular view across Gjirokaster
• Old Bazaar – Climb the steep alleys around the old Bazaar and stroll through the carpet and handcraft shops
• Ali Pasha bridge – an abandoned bridge in the countryside just a short hike (around 20 minutes) from town
• Day trip to Lengarica Canyon & Bënjë thermal baths – one of my favorite spots in Albania

Stay in Gjirokaster

• TeArra   – A bit up the hill, but led by a loving host Adi who loves to bake treats for her guests and prepares a large breakfast on her beautiful cozy terrace
• Grandpa’s Home   – A guesthouse that awaits you with the warmheartedness you’d expect from this name. With a beautiful garden and terrace and view of the castle.
• Stone City Hostel – a lovely hostel in a traditional house right in the center of Gjirokaster with a garden, roof terrace, and great breakfast

Hotel recommendation for Gjirokaster: TeArra

Located a bit further up the hill, this little guesthouse is run by the lovely hostess Adi, who loves to bake goodies for her guests and prepare a great breakfast on her cute, cozy terrace. The view from up here is really great and it’s easy to walk into the center. The picture shows her sweetly furnished terrace.

Gjirokaster & Ali Pasha Bridge

Albanian Riviera

Places to see in the albanian riviera.

• Dhermi old town & the church (Manastiri i Shën Marisë) – with amazing sea view
• Vuno – A cute, small hillside village
• Butrint National Park – Ruins of an ancient city (with an old Roman theatre, old church, gates, a castle, and many more) in the southernmost part of Albania
• Heads-up: In my opinion, avoid Saranda and Ksamil which are the most touristy places in Albania with one hotel bunker next to the other

Hotel recommendation for Dhermi: Roots

What a beautiful hotel in the sweet old town of Dhermi! The location is truly unique. And the rooms are stylish and modern yet authentic with a stunning sea view from their balcony. What else could you ask for? In my eyes, the dream accommodation on the Albanian Riviera!

Dhermi & ruins of Butrint

Beaches in Albania

• Gjipe Beach – Maybe one of the best beaches in Albania, but still kind of hidden gem in Albania (maybe not so hidden, as there are also sunbeds down there) but an extremely beautiful bay that you can reach after around 30 minutes walk from the parking
• Gjiri i Akuariumit – Just a 20-minute walk from Livadi beach (where you can park) you reach this small bay which is a natural paradise
• Borsh Beach – A super long beach (over 7 km!) that will never seem crowded, as there’s enough place to find a private spot for you.
• Grama Bay – Far away from any other beaches, it’s best to take a boat to Grama bay (e.g. from Himare). It’s also a very historic place where sailors used to escape storms and left inscriptions on the walls.

A bay near Ksamil & Borsh Beach

Stay in the Albanian Riviera

• Roots (in Dhermi) – Located in Dhermi’s cute old town, this small hotel offers beautiful rooms with a stunning view from their balconies
• Guesthouses Luiza (in Borsh) – An authentic guesthouse with lemon trees in their garden and walking distance to the beach

Hotel recommendation at the sea in Borsh: Guesthouses Luiza

An authentic, simple guesthouse, where you can relax among lemon trees in the garden, enjoy the sea view from the balcony and even walk to one of the longest beaches in Albania in just a few minutes. Here you don’t need much more to get to know and love a slightly less touristy part of Albania.

Eat in the Albanian Riviera

• Green Life Market – The first all-vegan restaurant in Albania, run by warm-hearted owners who basically cook in their home. Great atmosphere and even better food that is organic and as local as possible. Highly recommend visiting (probably the only place worth visiting in Saranda)!

Vegan food at Greenlife Market & Albanian Fruit stalls

Canyons, rivers, and lakes

Osum canyon (kanion osumi), lengarica canyon (kanioni i lengarices).

Lengarica Canyon

Bënjë Thermal Baths

Syri i Kaltër (Blue Eye)

Blue Eye & its clear river

Albanian Alps (Prokletije)

Theth and valbona valley, todo in theth:.

• Calm down – The area around the cute village Theth with its iconic church, free-roaming horses and cows and scenic mountain landscape is truly a place to recharge
• Waterfall hike – You can take a bus that brings you close to the waterfall. Then it’s just a short hike
• Blood Rage Tower – It used to be a safehouse for those who had to hide and can be visited nowadays
• Blue Eye – Yes, there’s also a well with the same name as the spring in southern Albania
• Hike to Valbona or even Montenegro – If you’re a fan of hiking further, there are several routes that cross through Valbona and even Montenegro. But you should be an experienced hiker and willing to walk around 20 km a day for these tours.

Stay in Theth National Park:

You can find many authentic, family-run guesthouses in traditional stone houses in the village Theth. This is also the perfect starting point for many hikes and day trips.

• Guesthouse Gjin Thana – A small, family-run guesthouse with mountain views and a lush garden
• Guesthouse Marashi  – Perfectly located right by the river (what a view to wake up in the morning!) and run by warm-hearted hosts

Hotel recommendation in Theth: Guesthouse Marashi

With its unbeatable location directly on the river, you have a stunning view as soon as you wake up in the morning! In addition, you do not have to go far to the waterfall. The beautiful wooden guesthouse is also run by super warm hosts who will make your stay in Theth very special. A place you will always want to come back to!

Theth National Park (pictures by my friend Jule )

Route along the Black Drin

Albania itineraries, how many days do you need for an albania road trip, more on slow travel, how to get to albania.

The ferry from Bari to Durres

How to get around Albania?

Ferry to Durres & driving in Albania

Driving around Albania

Suggested Albania itineraries

2 weeks albania itinerary.

• drive Tirana ⇨ Berat (1.5h / 100km)
• drive Berat ⇨ Gjirokaster (2.5h / 180km)
• drive Gjirokaster ⇨ Blue Eye ⇨ Riviera (1.5 – 2.5h / 90 – 115km)
• drive Riviera ⇨ Kruje ⇨ Koman Lake (5.5h / 320 km), add a night in Kruje if you’d like to avoid the long drive
• Koman Lake & Albanian Alps (3-4 days)

2 weeks Albania itinerary (click for interactive map)

10 days Albania itinerary

3 weeks albania itinerary.

Llogara Pass & Riviera

Llogara Pass

Good to know

When is the best time to visit albania, where to sleep on your albania road trip.

Accommodation in Albania

How expensive is traveling in Albania?

Is traveling in albania safe.

What about Internet? Can you use EU roaming in Albania?

Food in albania.

• Stuffed vegetables (e.g. eggplant, peppers, or pumpkin) – often stuffed with rice, mixed vegetables and sometimes cheese on top
• Ferges – Like a vegetable casserole with cheese
• Pispili – Spinach cake
• Byrek – Like a pie with a soft pastry
• Qifqi – Rice balls (A special from Gjirokaster)
• Sarma – Stuffed wine leaves
• Qofte – Fried vegetable balls
• Petulla – The typical Albanian “pancakes”, but they’re fried, more like donuts
• Raki – There’s no way of leaving Albania without having some Raki (locals often even drink a glass with their coffee in the morning)

Byrek | Stuffed peppers | Albanian “pancakes”

The Albanian language

• Yes – “Po”
• No – “yo”
• Hello – “Pershendetje”
• Thank you – “Faleminderit”
• Good night – “Naten e mire”
• Cheers – “Gezuar”

Sustainable travel in Albania

Why does albania have such a huge trash problem.

Albania’s nature & animals drowning in trash

What can we do as travelers?

• Avoid any plastic packaging (say no to any plastic bags but bring your own tote bag instead)
• Buy fresh fruit or freshly prepared snacks instead of packed snacks like chips or cookies
• Bring your own cosmetics instead of using the shampoo samples in any accommodation
• Say no to plastic straws, plastic cups etc.
• Bring a water filter bottle , so you don’t have to buy any plastic bottles

More about reducing waste during your trip

Lost places & bunkers.

Bunkers & lost places in Albania

Bunkers everywhere in Albania

Albania – a wrap-up

Albania in three words: Byrek | canyons | trash (yes, sadly that’s one of the things that left a mark)

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13 comments.

You’re quite right, Albania is definitely a beautiful country worth spending time in and exploring. A road trip sounds ideal. It is a pity about the litter but hopefully that will be addressed soon.

Yeah, in my opinion a roadtrip is the perfect way to explore Albania, and especially to get off the beaten path. However, the country needs to manage their litter problem soon. Otherwise this will result in worse problems. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Alma!

Hello! Thank you for making such a wonderful travel blog. I really appreciate this on point detailed guide. I wanna share the website https://www.holidayhare.com/country/albania I use to check info about countries, cities, weather, visa req. etc before I travel hope this helps :)

Thanks for your great feedback. I’m happy to hear that you like my content about an Albania road trip!

Hello. Thanks for the post. I want to share a website i came across, for cheaper holiday rentals, directly from local owners: https://www.rentfromlocals.al

thanks for the great article, keep up the good work

Thanks so much for your lovely comment!

Could you recommend any guided tours or travel tips for exploring the canyons and clear blue rivers in Albania?

You can find my tour recommendations within the article ;)

Thank very much for very helpful tips

I’m happy to hear that my tips for Albania were helpful to you.

Great article.

Hi Rezart, thanks! I’m glad you like my tips for a road trip through Albania.

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Home Travel Guide

10-Day Road Trip Albania – The Ultimate Itinerary

Albania is a hidden gem in the Balkans that tourists often overlook. But what this small country lacks in size, it more than makes up for in natural beauty and interesting history. The best way to visit Albania is by road trip.

Albania is a beautiful country with a rich history and culture. Between the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, Albania has some of the most stunning coastlines in Europe. Inland, you’ll find towering mountains, pristine lakes, and quaint villages. If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path destination, Albania is the perfect place for you.

This 10-day road trip itinerary will take you to some of Albania’s most beautiful places. You’ll start in Tirana, the capital city, and make your way down to Saranda on the Albanian Riviera.

Along the way, you’ll stop at Lake Ohrid , one of Europe’s deepest and oldest lakes, and visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of Gjirokastra . 10 days’ worth of adventure packed into one ultimate Albanian road trip itinerary.

You’ll also get to experience Albanian cuisine, which is a delicious blend of Mediterranean and Ottoman influences. So what are you waiting for? Start planning your trip to Albania today!

Before we start, you may want to know some practical information about driving in Albania and the weather or skip straight to the 10-day itinerary to Albania.

Table of Contents

What are the Roads like in Albania?

The roads in Albania are generally in good condition, especially the main highways. However, there are some potholes and speed bumps, so you’ll want to take it slow when driving on smaller roads. There are also plenty of scenic stops along the way where you can take in the views.

When is the best time to visit Albania?

Albania is a beautiful country to visit any time of year. However, the best time to visit depends on your travel style and preferences. If you’re looking for warm weather and long days, then the best time to visit Albania is from June to September . These months offer the warmest temperatures and longest days. If you’re looking for cooler weather and shorter days, then the best time to visit Albania is from October to May. These months offer cooler temperatures and shorter days.

Day 1 Explore Tirana

Start your Albanian road trip in the capital city of Tirana. Explore the city’s sights, including the National History Museum, Skanderbeg Square, Clock Tower, Et’hem Bey Mosque , and the Cathedral of Saint Paul . Once you’ve gotten your fill of culture and history, enjoy a traditional Albanian meal in one of the city’s many restaurants.

Day 2: Kruje

Kruje From Tirana , head north to Kruje. Kruje is a medieval town perched atop a hill in Central Albania and is home to the famous Kruja Castle , which overlooks the town below. Spend some time exploring the castle before heading into town to grab some lunch. Krujë is also known for being home to national hero Skanderbeg and for its traditional bazaar where you can buy locally made handicrafts and souvenirs. In the afternoon, visit the Ethnographic Museum to learn more about Albanian culture and History. End your day with dinner at one of Kruje’s delicious eateries.

Best tours from Kurje:

• From Tirana: Kruja castle, the old bazaar and Sarisalltik
• Kruja City & Holy Cave of Sari Salltik Day Tour

Day 3: Kruje to Durres

After breakfast in Kruje, hit the road for Durres . Durres is Albania’s largest port city and is home to some of the best beaches in the country. Spend your day lounging on the beach or exploring Durres’ Roman ruins . Make sure to try some of the fresh seafood available in Durres’ restaurants – you won’t be disappointed!

A great activity is to visit the vinyards and hills .

Day 4: Durres to Berat

Berat is known as the “city of a thousand windows” due to its distinctive architecture. Spend your day exploring Berat Castle and wandering through the old town streets. In the evening, enjoy a sunset cruise on Berat’s beautiful riverfront.

Indulge yourself and book a wine-tasting tour in Berat .

Day 5: Berat to Gjirokaster

Known as Albania’s “stone city”. Gjirokaster , a UNESCO World Heritage-listed town known for its Ottoman architecture, is home to an impressive castle which overlooks the town below. Walk through the castle grounds before heading into town for lunch. In the afternoon, explore Gjirokaster’s old town streets and visit one of its many museums. For something different, visit Belsh Citadel —a Soviet-era military base that has been turned into an open-air museum. Be sure to try some of Gjirokaster’s delicious traditional food – kofta are a must!

Day 6 and 7: Sarande to Ksamil Islands

After breakfast in Sarande , Visit Sarande’s old town, stroll along its promenade and swim at one of its many beaches or take a boat tour to nearby Blue Cave . The next day, take a boat ride out to Ksamil Islands – an archipelago of four small islands just off Albania’s coast. Ksamil Islands are known for their dramatic cliffs, crystal-clear waters, and tranquil atmosphere. Spend your day swimming, sunbathing, and exploring these stunning islands before returning to Sarande in the evening. Sarande is a great place to try some fresh seafood.

Day 8: Sarande to Butrint

After breakfast in Sarande, drive south to Butrint – a UNESCO World Heritage Site located on an eponymous island just off Albania’s coast. Butrint was once an important trading port during Roman times, and today it is an important archaeological site. Spend your day exploring Butrint’s ancient ruins, including its theatre, baths, and forum. Make sure to stop by the Butrint museum for an informative overview of Butrint’s history.

Day 9: Llogara National Park

After breakfast in Butrint, continue driving south towards Llogara National Park – a scenic nature reserve located atop Albania’s Llogara Pass. Llogara National Park is known for its breathtaking views, hiking trails, and rare wildlife. Spend your day hiking through Llogara National Park before stopping at one of its viewpoints to enjoy panoramic views of the Albanian Riviera stretching out below.

Day 10: Borsh From Llogara National Park

Drive down winding mountain roads towards Borsh – a small village located on the Albanian Riviera. Borsh is known for its secluded beaches, clear waters, and relaxed atmosphere. Spend your final day swimming, sunbathing, and enjoying fresh seafood before returning to Tirana tomorrow.

Albania is an incredible country with so much to offer visitors. There’s something for everyone in Albania. This 10-day road trip itinerary covers all of the must-see sights in Albania and some hidden gems off the beaten path.

Let us know in the comments your favourite part of Albania.

You might also like to read: 35 BEST DIGITAL NOMAD DESTINATIONS 2024

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Amazing post about Albania! I’ve been doing a bit of research and Albania seem to be coming up everywhere. And the more I look, the more interesting it seems. But I’m wondering though if it is possible to travel alone and not do a road trip around Albania? As much as I love a road trip, sometimes its not the best for travelling on my own.

Thank you so much, we didn’t travel solo but we didn’t come across any problems whilst travelling. I guess if you are travelling solo you would need to take some normal precautions like not hitch hiking or travelling at night. In terms of transport buses are the most common form of public transportation in Albania, and they connect many cities, towns, and villages. There are both intercity and local buses, and they can be a relatively inexpensive way to travel within Albania. However, be aware that bus schedules may not always be reliable, and buses may not be as modern or comfortable as in some other countries. Hope this helps, let us know if you managed to go to Albania. 😉

Hello Asha! Thank you for making such a wonderful travel blog. I really appreciate this on point detailed guide.

Thank you we are so happy you find it useful.

Great itinerary. Do you have a list of the hotels you stayed in each place?

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Albania Itinerary: An Epic 2 Week Albania Road Trip from Alps to Riviera & Ohrid Lake

This 2 Week Albania Itinerary covers the Albanian Riviera, historical Ottoman-era towns, the capital Tirana and gorgeous off-the-beaten path destinations in the South and East of Albania (including lake Ohrid) . My Albania road trip route also includes the best places to see and things to do in each location, accommodation options, transportation, driving times and distances, places to eat, and other handy Albania travel tips.

If you have more time to travel in Albania, I also provide an extended 3 week in Albania route which includes the Northern side of the country- the Albanian Alps with the Valbona-Theth hike . Two alternative routes are also included in this guide: a 2-week itinerary from Albanian Alps to Albanian Riviera and 2 weeks in Albanian Alps all the way to Lake Ohrid .

Albania is not yet under many tourists’ radar. However, a good word is spreading and interest in visiting Albania is growing faster each year. Underdog of the Balkans, having been closed from the rest of the world for more than 40 years, Albania is probably one of the most understated countries in Southern Europe. It is no surprise that mentioning Albania as my travel choice, made many eyes roll. Despite that, I have visited Albania twice so far.

Albania will be a dream place for those of you seeking an authentic, a little rustic, untouched by social media, and also a very affordable travel experience in Europe that combines lots of beautiful nature, culture, history, and adventure. 

The country is still in the transition period. From being chained by the communist regime for several decades, completely closed from the outside world to suddenly being exposed to it, there is definitely a lot to take in and figure out for the Albanian people. Nonetheless, Albania is extremely welcoming to foreign visitors and surprisingly easy to travel around. 

Located in south-eastern Europe, Albania is scarred by dramatic history but blessed with incredible nature- from turquoise waters of Adriatic and Ionian coasts , deep canyons, refreshing lakes, and gushing rivers, to breathtaking Albanian Alps inviting for some of the best hikes in the Balkans.

Meanwhile, the UNESCO-listed Berat and Gjirokastër towns are perfect places for those who love traveling back in time, history, and beautiful old architecture. 

Based on my traveling in Albania experience, here is my modified itinerary, part of which can be done using public transport (buses and minivans) and the rest of it as a road trip in a rental car . Although public connections are available to all the places mentioned in this guide, they are not as frequent and convenient as self-driving. 

RELATED READS: Driving in Albania- everything you need to know before renting a car.

Keep on reading this day-by-day Albania Itinerary for the best places to see, things to do , and what to skip. Plan your own perfect trip to Albania with my practical traveling in Albania tips, including recommended accommodation in Albania, how to get around, as well as driving times and distances between each leg of the trip, and last but not least- great places to eat in each destination. 

Disclaimer:  This post contains affiliate links, which means that I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). This helps to keep my blog running and growing by creating more awesome free content for you.

2-week Albania Itinerary for a Perfect Road Trip (extendable to 3 weeks)

Albania itinerary overview.

• Day 1: Tirana
• Day 2: Tirana-Berat
• Day 3: Berat
• Day 4: Berat-Himara
• Day 5: Himara (visit Dhermi and Gjipe) 
• Day 6: Himara (visit Borsh) 
• Day 7: Himara- Gjirokaster
• Day 8: Gjirokaster
• Day 9: Gjirokaster- Permet
• Day 10: Permet – Korca
• Day 11: Korca- Lin
• Day 12: Lin
• Day 13: Lin-Tirana
• Day 14: Tirana

Extended 3-week Albania itinerary

• Day 15: Tirana – Shkodra (Shkoder) 
• Day 16: Shkodra-Komani Lake Ferry-Valbona
• Day 17: Valbona Pass hike to Theth
• Day 18: Theth
• Day 19: Theth-Shkodra
• Day 20: Shkodra- Kruje
• Day 21: Kruje-Tirana

Albania Itinerary Map

Albania travel essentials

• My TOP TIP : The best way to explore Albania is by self-driving. Look for the best rental car rates at Localrent or Discover Cars .
• Best flight deals: Use Skyscanner to find the cheapest and fastest flights to Albania from your location.
• Accommodation: book your perfect stay using Booking.com .
• Before You Go: 90-day tourist visa is free for most nationalities; if not apply for an Albania visa easily at iVisa .
• Travel insurance : for safe traveling in Albania. Get a quote at SafetyWing or World Nomads .
• Guided tours: look for the best-rated Albania tours on Viator .
• Local SIM Card: Get a sim at the Tirana airport arrivals hall. The best coverage is provided by Vodafone. A tourist pack with 70 GB of data and free local calls costs 2000 LEK (17 EUR).

Recommended guided day tours in Albania:

• Tirana Walking Tour with Food Tasting (5/5 Viator)
• Rafting in Osumi Canyons (5/5 Viator)
• Kayaking and hiking Valbona Pass in 4 days from Tirana (5/5 Viator)
• Pearls of Albania in 8 days (5/5 Viator) – for those who prefer everything organized this tour covers almost all the main highlights of Albania .

About this Albania road trip itinerary

How much time to spend in albania.

This Albania itinerary is created based on my two separate trips. One of them covered 2 weeks of exploring the central, southern, and eastern parts of the country, while the other was focused on visiting the Northern side of Albania for one week.

To see all the places mentioned in this guide you will definitely need 3 weeks in Albania. 

The first two weeks in Albania route is planned as a loop starting and finishing in the capital Tirana. Meanwhile, an extended itinerary adds one week in Albania coving the Northern side-Shkoder and the Albanian Alps.

If you do not have 3 weeks to spare for your trip to Albania and feel like mixing and matching some of the places, or cutting off some time spent in one of the locations and adding more time to the other, you can definitely do so.

My main advice is- do not try seeing the whole country in a short period of time. Logistically and in time wise it would be simply impossible. You can modify this Albania route depending on what you love exploring the most- is it mountains, beaches, historical towns, or bustling cities?

By reading the details about each location on my Albania itinerary route, you will get a good idea if the place is your cup of tea (or coffee).

To give you more inspiration on how to best schedule the trip, I have created two alternative 2-week in Albania route suggestions, where I mixed around parts of the original route. I share those at end of this post.

Also, bear in mind the time of the year that you choose to travel to Albania. For example, the Valbona-Theth hike is seasonal and can be done from late May to early October. Outside these months trail might not be passable, so you have to take this into account when planning.

RELATED READS: Read my detailed post about Valbona-Theth hike in Albanian Alps.

How to get around Albania? Transportation used in this Albania route

Although the whole trip could be completed using public transport only I would strongly recommend renting a car for visiting the Albanian Riviera. Also, the southern and eastern parts of Albania have a lot of beautiful corners reachable only by car, while public transport is sparse. Meanwhile, you can absolutely get away without a car in the section of the route covering the Northern side of Albania. 

On my two-week trip to Albania, I picked up the rental car a few days later into the trip as I did not need it for Tirana and the mountain town Berat which I reached using public transport.

Instead of Tirana airport, I hired a car from the port town of Durres because it was more convenient for continuing the trip to the Albanian Riviera. However, this choice might not be for everyone and usually, travellers rent a car at Tirana Airport upon arrival. If you don’t want the hassle of using public transport I would advise doing just that. 

Renting a car in Albania

My recommended place to get the best car rental deals in Albania is Localrent search aggregator. It caters to local car providers and therefore terms and conditions for hiring a car are much more favorable. The deposit is in cash and can be as low as 50 EUR, sometimes none. I rented a car using Localrent and had a great experience. 

The other website I also use when travelling is Discovercars as they also have some of the best deals on the internet (in case Localrent runs out of supply).

• Click here for the best car rental deals with Localrent
• Click here to compare prices with Discovercars.

RELATED READS: Also read my guide to driving in Albania for all the information and questions you may have about hiring a car in Albania. 

Where to stay in Albania- quick links

For your reference, below is a list of recommended accommodations in each location of this Albania itinerary. Please refer for more details under each destination.

• Where to stay in Tirana: Maritim Plaza Hotel (high-end); Galeria Apartment (mid-range); Tirana Backpaker Hostel (budget).
• Where to stay in Berat: Timo’s Guesthouse (boutique homestay); Hani I Xheblatit (boutique hotel); Berat Backpakers Hostel (budget).
• Where to stay in Himara: Prado Luxury Hotel (luxury); Amphora Guesthouse &Apartments (mid-range); Filikur Hostel Himare (budget).
• Where to stay in Gjirokaster: Kerculla Resort (high-end); Boutique Hotel Musee (boutique); Konaku Guest House (mid-range); Stone rooms 1850 (budget)
• Where to stay in Permet: Villa Permet (high-end); Traditional Guest House Permet (mid-range); The Mozaik House (mid-range)
• Where to stay in Korca: Hani I Pazarit Boutique Hotel (luxury boutique); IN Gallery & Spa (high-end); Villa Domenico (mid-range); Petro’s Apartment (budget).
• Where to stay in Lin: Guest House Lin (mid-range); Rosa B&B (budget)
• Where to stay in Shkoder: Hotel Tradita (boutique); Hotel-Legjenda (mid-range); All Seasons Apartment (mid-range); The Wanderers Hostel (budget).
• Where to stay in Valbona: Villas Jezersca (mid-range).
• Where to stay in Theth : Guest House Bec Villi (guesthouse); Guest House Marashi (mid-range).
• Where to stay in Kruja: Hotel Panorama Kruje (high-end); Rooms EMILIANO (mid-range)

Albania Itinerary Day-by-Day

Day 1: tirana (overnight in tirana) .

Tirana is the capital of Albania and it is also the only city that has an international airport. Therefore, it is likely your entry point will be Airport Nënë Tereza , also often called Rinas International Airport (TIA). 

Tirana is an up-and-coming European city known for its colorful buildings, street art and murals, vibrant coffee shop, and bar scene. Although not a pretty city, but definitely with a distinctive character and turbulent history, Tirana is worth to be explored for at least a full day.

All main sites in Tirana are within walking distance and most of them are located around Skanderbeg Square . 

I recommended joining 2 hours free walking tour which starts in Skanderbeg Square in front of the Opera house daily at 10 AM. The guides are knowledgeable and will give a good insight into Albania’s past and put many things into perspective. 

• If you prefer a more in-depth and smaller group tour, you may want to check out this 6 hours Tirana Walking Tour which combines food experience and includes breakfast and lunch.

The most important and interesting places to visit in Tirana are:

– BunkArt1 and BunkArt2 museums set up in real communist era bunkers. Detailed exhibitions explain the dark history of Albania during the communist regime. 

– Blloku District- a former compound for important communist politicians now turned into to coolest area filled with trendy cafes and bars.

– Spot the colorful buildings and beautiful murals of Tirana which are dotted all around the city. The initiative to awaken the grey apartment blocks by re-painting them in funky colorful patterns was Tirana’s Mayor idea. This makeover makes the capital of Albania stand out as one of the most colorful European towns. 

– Take a cable car ride to Dajti mountain 1600 meters above sea level. The elevated views over the city of Tirana and the surrounding mountain range are unbeatable.

READ MORE: make sure to check my Tirana city guide- a n itinerary of the best things to do in Tirana for 1-2 days .

Where to eat in Tirana

• Traditional Albanian food at restaurant Oda is reasonably priced and makes delicious stuffed eggplants.
• For the best coffee and funky art deco interior go to Coin, and try guarida- cinnamon-infused sweet espresso macchiato. 

Where to stay in Tirana

• High-end: Maritim Plaza Hotel – one of the newest hotels in the heart of Tirana, offers a luxury 5-star hotel experience, sauna, and baths overlooking the city. Click here for prices and availability.
• Boutique: La Suite Boutique Hotel -modern and sheek boutique hotel close to Blloku, Pyramid of Tirana, and Lana River. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: Hotel Restaurant Bujtina e Gjelit – featuring a courtyard with a pool, an in-house restaurant serving local and international dishes, an art gallery, and traditionally decorated rooms, this hotel will make you feel like you left the city. Yet it is in close proximity to the center. Click here to check prices and availability.
• Apartments: Galeria Apartment – an airy self-contained apartment that can host up to 6 people, with private free parking, a beautiful terrace overlooking central Tirana, walking distance from all main attractions in town, including a modern shopping mall. Click here for prices and availability.
• Apartments: Bujtina Shqiptare – I stayed here and loved the huge size of the self-contained apartment that has everything you need-fully equipped kitchen and washing machine, also a balcony overlooking Tirana and the mountains. Only 700 meters from Skanderbeg square, with shops and restaurants around, it is a perfect place to stay in Tirana for a few days. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Tirana Backpaker Hostel -laid back and cozy hostel offering mixed dorms and private rooms, a 10-minute walk from Skanderbeg Square. Click here for prices and availability.

Day 2-3: Tirana- Berat (2 nights in Berat)

• Distance: 120 KM from Skanderbeg Square
• Driving time: 2 HRS

UNESCO heritage-listed Berat is a charming Ottoman-era town. Also, called a town of “thousand windows” due to its unique architecture, Berat features two historical neighborhoods divided by the river Osum.

Gorica , the Christian side, and Mangalem , the Muslim side that extends up to the castle quarter, form the old part of Berat. 

Berat is possibly the most magical historical town in Albania. Wandering the maze of narrow cobblestone streets, watching locals ride old school bicycles and play chess, climbing up the Berat castle to catch panoramic views at sunset, and last but not least eating the best foods at Lili’s home-made food restaurant are some of the wonderful things you can do in Berat. 

If you have more time to spare, there are a few fantastic natural attractions to explore outside the city. Osumi canyon and the waterfalls , or even hiking the mighty Tomorri summit .

Where to eat in Berat

• Lili’s Homemade Food Restaurant is hands down the best restaurant in Albania- the food is unbeatable, while the host Lili is one of a kind. Make sure to reserve well in advance as the word had already spread and the restaurant has only 5 tables.
• Pasticeri Tori Berat – best ice cream and ice cream-based desserts in town.
• Gimi Café – serves fantastic coffee and pancakes.

Places to stay in Berat

• Boutique Home Stay: Timo’s Guesthouse – a homestay in a traditional Ottoman house in Mangalem area features unbeatable terrace views over the Gorica quarter, the best breakfast you can expect, and, of course, unmatched hospitality from the hosts. I stayed here twice and would do it again. Click here for prices and availability.
• Boutique Hotel: Hani I Xheblatit – located in Mangalem area, boasting a restaurant, bar, and beautiful shared terrace this hotel provides nicely decorated traditional Albanian family rooms, exceptional breakfast, and free parking also included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Berat Backpakers Hostel – Located in Gorica quarter, this nice hostel provides mixed dorms and family rooms, a shared kitchen, and a terrace. Click here for prices and availability.

Getting to Berat from Tirana by bus: frequent buses and minibusses (every 30-60 minutes) are available from South and North Tirana Bus Terminal ( Terminali i Autobusave të Jugut dhe Veriut ), the exact location here . The ticket price is 500 LEK, and the journey takes 2 hrs 15min or longer depending on the traffic. In Berat, the final stop is Berat Bus Terminal ( Terminale i Autobusave ) located 3 kilometers from the old town. From the station, across the road, you can catch a city bus for 30 LEK per person or a taxi for around 400-500 LEK.

Day 4-6: Berat to Himare and Albanian Riviera (3 nights in Himare) 

• Driving distance: 155 KM
• Driving time: 3.5 HRS

The drive from Berat to Himare ( Himarë ) is going to be long but very scenic. You will be driving along the Albanian Riviera coast which starts from Vlore-the third biggest town in Albania and stretches all the way to Saranda.

Be ready for the breathtaking views opening up while traversing the dramatic Llogara Pass serpentine road. Crossing Llogara National Park and Ceraunian Mountains, this adventurous road winds up to 1027 meters above sea level and drops down parallel to the shores of the shimmering Ionian sea. 

On the way make sure to stop at Llogara Pass panoramic viewpoint to admire the scenery. The wind at this point is quite wild, so if you, like me, are planning on flying a drone, be careful. 

Albanian Riviera is an up-and-coming seaside destination currently mostly frequented by locals and a number of foreign visitors. Featuring a kaleidoscope of blue waters of the Ionian sea, and pebbly beaches backed by endless rolling hills, Albania Riviera is a sunseeker’s playground. 

While the main beaches in Vlore, Saranda, Dhermi, and Himare are covered with sunbeds and umbrellas during the peak season (July and August), you will still find serenity at many hidden coves dotted along the Albanian Riviera. For that exact reason, I strongly suggest having your own vehicle so you have the flexibility to stop anywhere along the road and stroll down to one of the hidden bays. 

Base yourself in Himare

I recommend Himare ( Himarë ) as a base in Albanian Riviera. Ideally, if you are driving, your best bet is to pick accommodation in the atmospheric old town ( Himare Fshat ) perched atop the hill. You will be treated to gorgeous views and silence at night as opposed to the busy and noisy new part of Himara. 

The historic castle ruins in old Himare are well worth a visit, especially for wonderful unobstructed sunset views over the Ionian coast. 

Moreover, Himare is strategically situated providing convenient access to the best Albanian Riviera beaches located North and South of the town.

Where to stay in Himare

• Luxury: Prado Luxury Hotel -located a few steps away from Livahdi beach this hotel offers modern rooms (wooden floors, marble bathrooms), a private beach area, a gym, and a seasonal pool area, breakfast and private free parking are included. Check for prices and availability here.
• Mid-range apartments: Amphora Guesthouse &Apartments – self-contained apartments and rooms in old Himare. Some of the units are located in ancient buildings, while some are in new ones. We stayed in one of the new-building apartments which had a fantastic terrace with sea views. The guesthouse has a lovely terrace cafeteria where you can have homemade cake and coffee. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range hotel:   Sonar en el Mar – minimalist style modern bright rooms feature balconies with sea views, only a 1-minute walk from the main Spille beach in Himare town, exceptional breakfast, and free parking are included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Filikur Hostel Himare – a 10-bed and 4-bed mixed dorm located 200 m from Potam beach, has a garden, shared kitchen, and private free parking. Click here for prices and availability.

Which beaches in Albanian Riviera should you visit and which skip?

Gjipe beach.

Located 20-minute drive North of Himare town, followed by a short hike down the dirt track with fantastic coastal views, secluded Gjipe beach lays sandwiched between the steep rocks. Although not as secret and not completely wild as it used to be some years ago, Gjipe is still one of the most beautiful beaches on the Riviera.

From the parking lot paid at 300 LEK for a day, reaching the beach requires a relatively easy 20 to 30min trekking through a sandy and rocky path. Taking into account the effort required to reach the beach, there won’t be too many people visiting it. A campsite and three rustic bars selling refreshments and snacks are also available.

Make sure to wander into Gjipe Canyon which cuts inland a few hundred meters from the beach. 

Location: when driving along SH8 coastal road look for the turn to Manastiri i Shën Theodhorit (St Theodor’s Monastery). You can also put “Gjipe beach parking” on Google Maps to direct you. 

Livadhi beach

Just a short 5-minute drive down the hill from old Himare, or North of new Himare, Livadhi beach is quick to access and easy to park (for free). Part of the beach is covered in umbrellas but it still has plenty of space to stretch your towel on the pebbly shores. You can also find a couple of nice beach bars on the right side of the beach to sip a cocktail or have a snack. 

Potam beach

Located at the south end of new Himare town, this pebbly beach is easier to park at than the main Himare beach and also has refreshing cold water streams making it a perfect cool down spot during a hot summer day. 

Borsh Beach

Driving down south from Himare towards Sarande in around 30 minutes you will reach the longest beach on the Albanian Riviera called Borsh. You can find some completely empty spots even during the busy months.

For the most remote locations, skip the busy stretch of the beach, and walk all the way southwards. Look up Ohana’s Restaurant on Google maps. It is a wonderful place to spend a day or even catch the sunset. The rustic beach bar/restaurant just above the shore offers a shaded retreat and has Sri Lankan café vibes.

Note that Borsh beach is around 7km long. Unless you are up for a long stroll along the coast, you might want to park at the south end of Borsh town.

Other beaches on the way to Borsh

Llamani beach -beautiful cove between dramatic cliffs, however, fully covered with umbrellas. We looked at it from above, expressed our regrets about overdevelopment, and moved on.

Porto Palermo- located between Himare and Qeparo town, it is an unspoiled bay mostly known for Ali Pasha’s Porto Palermo Fort. The area lacks facilities, therefore, you can find a few small coves along the SH8 road completely empty and great for a short swim break in crystal clear waters.

Qeparo beach- a narrow strip of pebbly shore in front of a new part of Qeparo town. The bay is surrounded by rolling hills and the beach is facing west, making it a good spot not only for swimming and tanning but also for sunset views. Since it is located close to the new town, there are lots of bars, small restaurants, and supermarkets just a short walk away.

Visit quaint mountain towns Dhermi and Vuno

Dhermi town.

White-washed Greek-style houses characterize polished and pretty Dhermi ( Dhërmi ) old town. Situated atop the hill, Dhermi, is a little bit more posh compared to Himare when it comes to accommodation.

Nonetheless, since Dhermi is located only a 25-30 minutes drive from Himare, it is worth visiting for a few hours to explore its narrow steep, as common in this area, streets.

Only 10 minute drive North of Himare, and South of Dhermi, Vuno is a tiny atmospheric mountain village. Its steep cobblestone streets are still walked by donkeys like back in the olden days. It seems that the time in Vuno stands still. The only new era sign is a few satellite plates sticking out of the balconies.

Even a small section of stone pavement on the main SH8 coastal road remained untouched. While driving, the ride gets really bumpy and makes you slow down and pay attention to the town.

Once in Vuno, make sure to stop for a quick lunch at the outdoor bar/cafeteria Lula located just on the side of SH8 road. They serve delicious byrek and petula (a huge pancake served with cheese and jam on the side). 

Skip Dhermi beach and Drimadhes beach

Advertised as some of the best beaches on the Albanian Riviera, both Dhermi and Drimadhes beaches were a disappointment. Covered by hundreds of umbrellas (pricey by the way) and backed by some random ugly buildings and unfinished construction sites, load crowd, and even trash, both had everything that I don’t like about the beach. We stopped at both no more than 2 minutes each before we left.

The surrounding nature is unquestionably beautiful, and it is heartbreaking to see the area being “uglified” with all those terrible and useless developments (likely some horrific big hotels).  If you read reviews on Google, you will find more people confirming the above.

Skip Saranda

Saranda (Sarandë) is a hotspot in Albanian Riviera. It is the busiest town on the coast and a place where the majority of local and foreign holidaymakers head to. If you are not a fan of high-rise buildings, traffic, and a loud party scene, I suggest skipping Saranda. I have done my research and seen enough images and reviews that convinced me not to waste my time on this part of the Albanian Riviera. Even my host in Himare advised against staying in Saranda. 

Nonetheless, there are a few well-rated beaches in the area like Ksamil , for example, which might be nice to visit off-season. 

Getting to Himare from Berat by bus: this might be a less straightforward and long journey as it requires multiple transfers. From Berat, you can catch a bus to Fier or Vlore (Vlorë), and then from there another bus to Himare. The guaranteed way, though, with many connections available throughout the day, would be going back to the Tirana bus terminal and taking another bus directly to Himare. Tirana to Himare bus costs around 1000 LEK and takes 4 hours.

DAY 7-8: Himare to Gjirokaster (2 nights in Gjirokaster)

• Driving distance: 100 KM
• Driving time: 2 HRS 15 MIN

Drive from Himare to Gjirokaster ( Gjirokastër  ) continues south along the scenic coastal road before you turn into equally stunning hinterlands. On our way to Gjirokaster, we made one more stop at Borsh beach to enjoy a couple of hours by the sea. 

If you are interested in seeing more castles, make a pit stop at the 17th-century Porto Palermo fortress also known as Ali Pasha Castle located on a small island (accessible through a land strip). 

Gjirokaster-the stone city of Albania

Characterized by rooftops made of stone plates, Gjirokaster is a distinctive Ottoman-era town that landed on the Unesco heritage sites list in 2005. From the moment you reach Gjirokaster, you will be swept away by the old-world charm pulsating through narrow cobblestone streets, frozen in time age-old buildings and local people conducting a slow-paced mountain village lifestyle. 

The landscape of Gjirokaster is dominated by a well-preserved 4th-century castle overlooking Drino valley. Meanwhile, the old town seamlessly merges with the new modern part. 

Strategically built on the slopes of mount Gjere ( mali i Gjere ), the distinctive fortified houses of Gjirokaster are interconnected by a maze of narrow steep cobbled streets. Be ready for a good leg day exploring this magical historical place of Albania.

The central nerve of the old town is a bustling New Bazaar area with all the coffee shops and souvenir stalls. Although it is an intersection of only 4 streets, there are lots of other nearly vertical pathways to take, including the ones leading all the way up to Gjirokaster Castle- a must-visit place for history and fantastic views. 

If you are staying for a couple of nights, it is also worth taking a short hike to Ali Pasha bridge -an elegant arched aqueduct built over the ravine. It takes only 40 min of hiking up the steep streets and then descending the rocky path down to the bridge. Make sure to wear sturdy shoes, flip flops are not recommended. 

Where to eat in Gjirokaster

• Taverna Tradicionale Kardhashi – located on the slopes of the castle, a traditional Albanian food restaurant run by laud and energetic family serving fantastic stuffed eggplants and other delicious specialties.
• Antigonea Furre Buki Pasteceri in the new town of Gjirokaster is a fantastic local bakery where you can buy huge delicious byreks for no more than 80 LEK per piece, and some of the best ice cream in town for only 50 LEK per scoop. 

Where to stay in Gjirokaster

I would strongly suggest staying up in the old town of Gjirokaster for the atmosphere and to reduce the number of steep hills which you would still have to tackle even inside the old town.

• High-end: Kerculla Resort – perched atop the mountain this resort boasts fantastic panoramic views, offers a huge private pool (quite handy during hot summer days), and beautiful traditionally decorated rooms, exceptional breakfast is also included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Boutique hotel: Boutique Hotel Musee – located in the heart of old town, next to Skenduli house, this traditional house converted into a hotel offers rooms set up in traditional Gjirokaster style, a cozy terrace, an exceptional breakfast, and free parking. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range homestay: Konaku Guest House – I stayed here-unique rooms in a classic fortified Gjirokaster house, one of the best terraces in town with the castle view, steps away from the bazaar, close to the castle, free parking, and breakfast included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Stone rooms 1850 – located in one of the fortified 200 years old houses, simple but beautifully arranged rooms, property located a bit higher up above the castle, means dome extra climbing up and down. Click here for prices and availability.

Getting to Gjirokaster from Himare by bus: you must first take a bus running to Sarande and then catch another bus going to Gjirokaster. Expect the journey with bus changes to last at least 3 hours. Thus, start early. The approximate trip price could be around 600-900 LEK.

Day 9: Gjirokaster-Permet (overnight in Permet) 

• Driving distance: 60 KM
• Driving time: 1 HR

Our journey continues to less explored parts of Albania. Permet ( Përmet ) is locally known and most visited for the Benja ( Bënja) thermal baths, beautiful arched Ottoman era Kadiut bridge, mysterious Langarica Canyon, and white water rafting in Vjosa ( Vjosë) river. 

Thermal baths, Kadiut bridge, and Langarica Canyon

Sulfur springs are spread all across Langarica canyon which is located only 20 minutes drive from Permet town. Locals believe in thermal waters’ healing power. There are 6 thermal pools that can be used free of charge. Different pool when used in moderation brings different benefits to health. Springs can improve skin conditions, stomach, and kidney diseases.

You can see locals spending hours in the thermal baths. However, our host advised us to stay only 10 to 15 minutes in one pool and then take 2 hours break before repeating the procedure.

When overused, sulfur springs can have a negative impact on your health. 

Dating back to the 18th century, still, in perfect condition, Kadiut Bridge is located in the same place as the baths. It is definitely beloved by photographers due to its elegant shape and mountain backdrop. 

Top tip: if you want to take a dip in thermal baths, make sure to arrive early in the morning before the crowds. It gets really busy during the day, especially in summer. Note that thermal waters are not as hot as you would expect. Thus, if visited in winter, they won’t be hot enough to keep you warm from the cold. 

My favorite part of our time in Permet, and one of the highlights of this Albania trip, was exploring Langarica Canyon . Not many ventures that far but those who do will be rewarded with an avatar movie scene-worthy place.

Surrounded by high limestone cliffs, the narrow canyon is reachable within only 200 meters walk following the gorge and the river after the Kadiut bridge. Unlike in Gjipe, there is water inside the Langarica Canyon. Bring water shoes as you will not only have to cross the river a few times before reaching the canyon but also if you want to continue further, the only way to walk is through the muddy stream. 

During the rainy season, the water can reach waist up. If you are up for an adventure, you can follow the canyon for 4 kilometers one way until you reach a dead end. 

Be careful when walking as the ground under the water is very slippery. Also, due to the muddiness, holes, and rocks are invisible, so take one step at a time. It would also be a good idea to take a waterproof back if you have camera equipment.

Permet town

The town of Permet is situated on the banks of the Vjosa river and is not specifically impressive in terms of architecture. Nonetheless, this small town is very well looked after, including the new road that leads to it.

The main attraction in Permet is the 40 meters height rock. You can climb the metal staircase and see the town of Permet from above. The best time to do so is during sunset. 

Where to eat in Permet

• Restaurant Familjari – a family-run restaurant that serves slow food and is probably the second best or the same level as Lili’s in Berat. Also, the lady host is super funny- she told us to stop ordering the food after our third dish request as it would have been simply impossible to finish everything for 2 people (portions are huge). Try stuffed eggplant (classic) and cottage cheese with bell peppers dish, finish up with gliko -traditional one spoon sweet.

Where to stay in Permet:

• High-end: Villa Permet -spacious rooms with wooden furniture and floors, bar, restaurant, garden, fabulous breakfast, and private parking included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: The Mozaik House – fabulous homestay with exceptional hospitality, beautiful air-conditioned rooms, generous and tasty breakfast, and a garden. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: Traditional Guest House Permet -perched on the hill in beautiful natural surroundings, this accommodation offers nicely decorated traditional rooms, a restaurant, a garden, and a terrace, some rooms have a private kitchen. Click here for prices and availability.

DAY 10-11:Permet- Korca (2 nights in Korca) 

• Driving distance: 130 KM
• Driving time: 3 HRS

Wishing to have had more time in beautiful Permet, we continued our journey further to the East of Albania. The final destination of this leg of the journey is Korca (Korçë) – the town of serenades, as locals call it. 

It takes around 3 hours of driving to reach Korca from Permet, passing close by to the Greek border. However, the drive is probably the most scenic of all 2-week Albania road trips .

If you have read online about the terribly bad road condition on the SH75 section along the Vjosa river between Permet and Leskovik village, disregard it.

The road has been fixed in 2021, and the panoramic drive is now buttery smooth. Although it does have lots of twists and turns around the face of the mountain, the road is brand new and a joy to drive. Take your time when driving and make sure to stop at the scenic point at Vjose river bend. 

The remaining section from Leskovik to Korca, however, is a bumpy slow drive through an old road with many potholes. This explains the amount of time needed to reach Korca.

Nonetheless, there are barely any cars passing by, thus it is not a complicated drive. The only thing that could be a bit of a challenge is if you have a small-engine car. My rental car was a 1.5 L 2008 ford that struggled a little on steeper turns, but it made it all the way without any problem. 

Important tip:   make sure to top up your gas tank when leaving Permet. Unlike everywhere else on this road trip, there were not too many petrol pumps in this particular section. You should also be able to refill in Leskovik town as well but don’t bet on driving with the empty tank as it can be a while before the next station appears. 

Korca- the city of serenades and little Paris of Albania

Korca town is located in the southeastern corner of Albania close to the Greece and Macedonia borders. Surrounded by Morava mountains, the town dates back to the 13th century. Over the years it carried the influence of Greeks and Aromanians and eventually evolved into a dynamic city enriched with important cultural and historic sites, and also significant cuisine elements. 

Although it doesn’t fall on a classic Albania travel route and is often overlooked by foreign visitors, Korca will undoubtedly offer you an authentic experience. Recognized as an unofficial cultural capital of Albania, Korca has several world-class museums, significant architectural monuments and historic districts, cultural festivals, and events happening on a regular basis. 

Korca, also nicknamed as Paris of Albania , (although it is quite a bold statement) does have a mix of distinctive architecture. It is not as unified or following one style as in Ottoman towns Berat and Gjirokaster, but rather a mix of buildings from different eras-old Ottoman houses, Greek-influenced structures, and more recent bizarre modern communism period apartment blocks.

The town is very walkable, lively, and filled with lots of green spaces, and as usual in Albania-coffee shops and bars. The trendiest bar scene can be experienced in the Old Bazaar area Pazari I Vjeter ( Pazari i Vjetër) . 

Top things to do in Korca

• The most notable landmark in town is the biggest in Albania Orthodox Resurrection of Christ Church located strategically in the heart of Korca. 
• For panoramic 360 degrees views over the town, head to the RED viewing tower. Admission is 50 LEK. 
• Visit the impressive National Museum of Medieval Art showcasing a collection of over 7000 Orthodox icons crafted from wood, metal, and stone and decorated with intricate details. To me, Orthodox medieval art had always been some of the most impressive, and seeing such a collection in one place has its “waw” effect.

Places to eat in Korca

• Traditional Byreks- almost unnoticeable eatery selling freshly baked delicious byreks over the counter for takeaway or eat at a table outside. Located in Old Bazaar next to Hani I Pazarit hotel.
• Find Four- recommended by many blogs, it is a nice trendy multi-level restaurant with terrace and balcony seating, serving a variety of food, including lakror (typical for Korca, but made seasonally, layered byrek type of pastry, available in winter, as the waiter explained)

Where to stay in Korca

• Luxury & Boutique: Hani I Pazarit Boutique Hotel – located in Old Bazaar, boutique hotel in a historical building featuring a beautiful courtyard, and characteristic luxurious rooms. Click here for prices and availability.
• High-end: IN Gallery & Spa – located in front of the Cathedral, the hotel itself is an experience, featuring not only tasteful and unique interior design, but also a wellness and spa center, an exquisite rooftop restaurant, and providing free bicycles which are great for touring around Korca. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: Villa Domenico -located in Old Bazaar in a traditional Ottoman-style building, this cozy hotel features tastefully decorated rooms with wooden floors and brick walls, has a lounge area, restaurant and bar, free parking, and delicious breakfast are included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Petro’s Apartment – we stayed here- a cozy modern apartment, more like a mini hotel, with a kitchenette for coffee and tea, fantastic hosts are very responsive and ready to accommodate, and the place has some of the food basics like milk, dry bread, cookies, tea, and coffee, as well as a handful of fruits ready for your arrival. Click here for prices and availability.

How to get to Korca from Permet (or Gjirokaster) by bus

There is once a day bus running from Gjirokaster via Permet to Korca. The bus in Gjirokaster departs at 6 AM and stops at Permet at 7 AM, then reaches Korca at 10:20 AM. To make sure the timetable is accurate, the best is to ask locals, ideally at the bus station for exact departure times. I used th e Gjirafa website as a reference for this information, however, it is not always accurate. Expect to pay around 1000 -1300 LEK for the journey.

DAY 12-13: Korca-Pogradec-Lin (2 nights in Lin) 

• Driving time: 1 HR 20 MIN

Spend a remaining couple of days by the beautiful Ohrid Lake shared between Albania and Macedonia. On the Albanian side, the biggest town on the shores of Ohrid lake is Pogradec. It is often chosen as a base for the Eastern Albania vacation due to its many amenities, hotels, restaurants, and a large public beach. 

However, when looking for our accommodation at lake Ohrid, I pulled a wild card and picked a homestay in the nearby Lin. A tiny village of Lin is situated on the small peninsula on the north side of Ohrid lake.

It was probably one of the best and most unique experiences in Albania. Surprisingly there were quite a few foreign tourists who also managed to discover this little gem. 2 days were spent laying on the sunbed and swimming in the refreshing waters of the lake Ohrid, hiking up the peninsula for the sunset and eating as much byreks as our stomachs could handle. 

If you are up for more action or sightseeing, you can always head to Pogradec, rent a bicycle, and cycle around the lake (even cross the Macedonian border if your passport allows visa-free entrance). 

Where to eat in Lin

• Make a pit stop for lunch in Tushemisht: on the way from Korca to Lin, stop for lunch in Tushemisht-a small village on the east side of Pogradec. Tushemisht seemed like a delightful small holiday town where locals spend their summer days by the lake. The village has many fish restaurants serving koran- a local fish common to the area which can be ordered grilled or as casserole (baked in a sauce).  Shtëpia e Vjeter was our pick in Tushemisht and it didn’t disappoint. The food was great served at the terrace by the water. The restaurant also has private parking which is useful in the tiny old town.
• Restaurant Leza – this restaurant has a large terrace with magnificent lake Ohrid views stretching as far as Macedonia shores. The menu is not huge but has great local specialties, including fresh grilled fish. Come for dinner during sunset- it is simply amazing.

Where to stay in Lin

• Mid-range: Guest House Lin – guesthouse offers wonderful rooms, some with dreamy balconies overlooking the water, a beautiful waterfront garden with sun lounges, and direct access to the Lake. It is quieter than its neighboring guesthouses, and probably one of the best choices for your stay in Lin. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Rosa B&B – I stayed here-charming waterfront guesthouse that feels like you are at grandma’s, run by a very welcoming and hardworking family. The terrace in front of the lake is lovely, but the sunbeds are limited and the guesthouse gets quite full during peak season. Breakfast is included, and homemade food on request is offered. We spent all day there without leaving the place. Click here for prices and availability.

Getting to Lin from Korca by bus

There is no direct bus to Lin village from Korce. First, you would have to embark on the bus going to Pogradec and from there catch a taxi or a minibus to Lin. Allow a couple of hours to reach Lin with changes. Journey from Korca to Pogradec should take just over an hour.

DAY 14: Lin-Tirana (optional night in Tirana) 

• Driving distance: 120 KM
• Driving time: 2 HRS 10 MIN

Depending on your departure from Tirana schedule, or if you continue your Albanian trip, or maybe heading to Montenegro or another Balkan country, you can spend one more day in Tirana and catch up with activities you might not have time to finish on your first day. 

To us, it was the end of a two-week (15 days) road trip in Albania. However, if you have more time in Albania, below is an extended route that focuses on the Northern side of the country and includes the epic Valbona to Theth hike in the beautiful Albanian Alps. 

Extended 1-Week Albania Itinerary 

Adding an extra week to your Albanian trip will cover almost all the highlights of the country. Continue your trip in Albania with this suggested 1-week route in Central and North Albania. 

For this route, you do not need to have a car. You can get around using public transport. In fact, if you are planning on doing the Valbona Theth hike, it is even more convenient to use public transport than driving, as you can avoid complicated logistics of where to leave your car and how to pick it up after the hike. 

• More details on Valbona-Teth hike logistics are below , and you can also read the complete guide here .

Day 15: Tirana-Shkoder (overnight in Shkoder) 

• Driving distance: 90 KM
• Driving time: 2.5 HRS

Shkoder ( Shkodër )  is located in Northern Albania at the banks of Balkan’s largest Lake Skadar, part of which is shared with Montenegro. 

Shkoder usually serves as a jump-off point for Albanian Alps treks, including the well-known Valbona-Teth hike . 

Nonetheless, there are some fantastic things to do in Shkoder before embarking further North into Albanian Alps. I recommend spending a couple of nights in Shkoder to enjoy its laid-back atmosphere. 

Top things to do in Shkoder

As soon as you are in Shkoder town you will immediately notice that people here ride bicycles more than in any other place in Albania (apart from Korca probably). 

It is a great idea to rent a bicycle and explore not only Shkoders’ cozy old town with an old bazaar area but also head south towards Lake Skadar and ride along its shores. Head toward Shiroka village and you will find some atmospheric waterfront restaurants where you can have romantic dinner by the lake. 

Also, don’t miss Rozafa castle located on the way-only 4 kilometers south of the old town of Shkoder. Rozafa dating back to the 9th century BC is a beautiful historical fortification set in a perfect location allowing to watch magical sunsets. 

Places to stay in Shkoder

• Boutique: Hotel Tradita – set in Ottoman style old house, traditionally decorated with Albanian textiles, this boutique hotel is also offering local Albanian specialties at their restaurant, photography museum, and souvenir shops. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: Hotel-Legjenda – we stayed here-an artsy vibe chalets with exceptional quiet surroundings, garden, pool, ground for campervans, walking distance to Rozafa Castle, 4km from Shkoder city center, the hotel also allows you to keep your big luggage for Valbona Theth hike for an extra 1 EUR fee. Click here for prices and availability.
• Apartment: All Seasons Apartment – we stayed here- centrally located in a quiet street self-contained 2 bedroom apartment with all amenities, including a washing machine, and Italian coffee machine. A fantastic host is ready to help you out any time you have a request. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: The Wanderers Hostel – a highly rated popular hostel featuring a lively courtyard, cozy 4 -bed dorms, and private ensuite rooms. Click here for prices and availability.

Where to eat in Shkoder

• Villa Bekteshi Restorant – locals love to dine here, especially for special occasions in big groups. A restaurant in a villa has tables on a couple of levels inside and in a beautiful courtyard. Food is fantastic local Albanian cuisine; rates are also great. Reservation in advance is recommended.

Getting to Shkoder from Tirana by bus

Buses from the North and South Bus Terminal in Tirana leave regularly to Shkoder. The trip takes around 2.5 hours and costs around 400 LEK.

DAY 16: Shkoder-Komani Lake Ferry- Valbona

• Shkoder to Komani Lake Ferry: distance 55 KM, minibus driving time around 2 HRS.
• Komani Lake Ferry: 3 HRS.
• Fierza to Valbone: distance 45 KM, minibus driving time around 1 HR.

Today you will be travelling north to the Albanian Alps – arguably the most beautiful part of the country. The final stop for the day is Valbona- a peaceful mountain village where you will spend a night before embarking on an epic Valbona-Theth hike.

The commute to Valbona is exciting as it involves not only travelling by scenic road but also taking the Koman ferry which passes through emerald blue Komani lake and river Drin.  Because of turquoise waters flowing through an incredibly scenic gorge, Komani is often dubbed with Norwegian fiords. 

3 hours on a boat will pass like 3 minutes while admiring the awe-inspiring scenery of Komani lake. The ferry ride finishes in Fierza village from where you will take a minibus ( furgon ) to Valbona. 

Although it may sound like a lot of logistics, don’t worry it is quite straightforward and the whole transfer from Shkoder all the way to Valbona, including ferry tickets, can be prearranged in advance.

RELATED READS: Click here to read my post with detailed instructions on how to get from Shkoder to Valbona, including taking the Komani lake ferry. 

Top tip: Komani ferry ride is quite popular, therefore, if you are travelling in summer, I strongly recommend booking everything a week or even two in advance. 

Once you reach Valbona- a scenic and very quiet Alpine village, you can enjoy a relaxed evening surrounded by breathtakingly mountain scenery. You can even hear the wolves haul far in a distance. Don’t worry though, they don’t come close to where people are. 

Where to stay in Valbona

• Mid-range: Villas Jezersca – cozy chalets with fantastic mountain views, delicious food, and amazing hospitality of the family running this accommodation. They prepared us takeaway food for the hike and dropped us closer to the trail at the end of Valbona free of charge. Click here for prices and availability.

DAY 17-18: Valbona- Theth hike and time in Theth (2 nights in Theth) 

Today is an epic day hiking from Valbona to Theth mountain village. This iconic hike in Albanian Alps follows a well-marked medium difficulty 17-kilometer hiking trail. Part of the famous Balkan trail, the route goes along the dry river bed before ascending up to the gorgeous Valbona pass.

The hike is moderate although there are enough steep sections which together with the views will surely take your breath away. Pace yourself as it will take at least 6 hours to complete the trail. 

• Read all the information you need to prepare for Valbona-Theth hike in my post . 

Theth Alpine village was my favorite compared to Valbona. Surrounded by snow-capped mountain peaks, rural Theth is simply a majestic place. One of the most visited landmarks is a very pretty little church dating back to the 19th century. Visit before sunset or at sunrise for the best lightning casting over the Theth church. 

I strongly recommend spending 2 nights in Theth to have a good rest after a long leg day hiking Valbona pass. For those of you who still have some energy left, trek to Theth Blue Eye-another well-known trail in the area featuring a crystal clear water pool enclosed between the mountains. The trail is no shorter than the Valbona hike but is said to be way less demanding. 

Where to stay in Theth

• Guesthouse: Guest House Bec Villi – lovely traditional village guesthouse featuring a beautiful garden, serving delicious homemade food. They also can help organize minibus back to Shkoder. For prices and availability click here.
• Mid-range: Guest House Marashi – a bit more upscale instagramer-loved stylish wooden rooms, some of which have bathtubs inside the room overlooking the mountains and/or lovely private terraces. Great homemade food is also served at this guesthouse. For prices and availability click here.

Day 19: Theth – Shkoder (1 night in Shkoder) 

• Driving distance: 80 KM

Getting back from Theth to Shkoder by minibus

The ride in a minibus from Theth to Shkoder is around 3 hours and is also extremely scenic.  

In order to catch a minibus from Theth to Shkoder, you have to request a homestay to prebook it for you. Usually, minibusses have set departure times during the first half of the day. Schedules are not written in stone, so the best is to inquire as soon as you arrive at Theth after the Valbona Pass hike. 

We booked our seats in a furgon a night before, however, it was only the start of the season.

Message your hotel beforehand to find out and try reserving earlier. 

When in Shkoder, you can rest up and catch up with the activities you may haven’t had time to complete on the first day. 

Also, if you are traveling further to Montenegro, as I did on my first trip to Albania, Shkoder is a great place to catch a bus to Podgorica or another town. 

DAY 20: Shkoder-Kruja (overnight in Kruje) 

• Driving distance: 75 KM
• Driving time: 1 HRS 50 MIN

For the last bit of the Albania trip, I recommend visiting Kruja (Krujë)- the first capital of Albania . 

Kruja is a medieval historic town and possibly one of the most well know because it used to be the home and base of operations for a national hero Skanderbeg who fought and won against the Ottomans back in the 15th century. 

Located at the base of Kruja mountain, this small and charming ages-old town is only 1 hour away from Tirana. Due to such close proximity to the current capital, Kruja is usually visited on a day trip.

However, it is a much better choice is to stay there overnight. Pick accommodation inside Kruja castle walls to have the most authentic experience. 

The main attractions in Kruje are the 5th-century castle, where you can also find an informative Skanderbeg museum, and the 400-years old Bazaar ( the Bazaar of Derexhik ). 

Stroll the narrow pedestrian cobbled streets along the many authentic stalls in the old bazaar, interact with friendly locals, and as usual enjoy Albanian homemade food and coffee. 

Where to eat in Kruja:

• Bardhi restaurant is set atop the hill within the castle ruins offering fantastic panoramic views stretching as far as the Adriatic sea. The food served is a traditional Albanian and European mix. 
• Restaurant Alba is another great alternative also within castle walls and with great views. This restaurant is serving traditional food and dishes of Mediterranean cuisine made of organic homegrown produce. 

Where to stay in Kruja

• High-end: Hotel Panorama Kruje – centrally located, with great views of the castle, this hotel also offers a private pool, a huge common terrace, underground parking, restaurant, and bar. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: Rooms EMILIANO – this homestay offers a unique experience of staying within the castle ruins, homemade food, and a fantastic terrace with a view where you can have breakfast and dinner. Click here for prices and availability.

Getting to Kruja from Shkoder by bus

Regular hourly buses from Shkoder to Tirana also stop in the new part of Kruje (Fushë-Krujë). The bus stop location is here . The ticket price is around 300 LEK. You must inform the driver to let you out in Fushe-Kruja. You will have to catch a minibus from the new part to the old part of Kruje from the George W Bush statue. The ticket price is around 100 LEK.

DAY 21: Kruje-Tirana

• Driving distance: 30 KM
• Driving time: 40 MIN

This is the last day of your Albanian journey. Depending on your departure time, you can still spend a few chilled hours in Tirana or head straight to the airport.

If you are not driving, you will first have to get to the South and North Bus Terminal of Tirana and then catch a taxi from there to the airport. Account for enough time to do so.

Plenty of buses and minibusses from Fushe-Kruje to Tirana leave regularly and take around 40 minutes to one hour to reach depending on the traffic. Ticket costs around 100-150 LEK.

At Tirana bus station, you can catch a cab to the airport or the Tirana city center. They are just lined up on the street. Or you can call Merr taxi to send you a driver- those guys are really good and reliable at organizing quick rides.

Alternative 2-week Albania itineraries: from Albanian Alps to Albanian Riviera and from Albanian Alps to Lake Ohrid

I have lined up different Albania itinerary suggestions for those of you who only have 2 weeks in Albania and prefer to visit:

1. The Albanian Alps and the Riviera. This itinerary excludes the eastern and most of the southern part of the country covered in my original route. In fact, if I was visiting Albania for the first time, the Albanian Alps to Albanian Riviera route is what I would have taken. It includes both Unesco towns Berat and Gjirokaster, hiking in the Albanian Alps and swimming in gorgeous Albanian Riviera beaches, as well as some time in Tirana and Shkoder.

2. The Albanian Alps and the Lake Orchid. This route excluded the seaside but adds the southern part of the country. It would be suitable for those of you who are not keen on beaches and prefer more off-the-beaten-path travel. The southeastern part of Albania is definitely still off-the tourist radar.

Since I have already written about each of the locations above, please refer to the specific place by coming back up to the post.

14 days in Albania-from Alps to Riviera itinerary

• DAY 1: Tirana-Shkoder
• DAY 2: Shkoder-Komani Lake-Valbona
• DAY 3: Valbona-Valbona Pass hike-Theth
• DAY 4: Theth
• Day 5: Theth-Shkoder
• Day 6: Shkoder- Tirana (pick up a rental car in Tirana) – Himare 
• Day 7: Himare
• Day 8: Himare (visit Borsh beach) 
• Day 9: Himare-Gjirokaster
• DAY 10: Gjirokaster- Berat
• DAY 11: Berat
• DAY 12: Berat-Kruje
• DAY 13: Kruje-Tirana
• DAY 14: Tirana (return rental car)

2 weeks in Albania- from the Alps to Lake Ohrid itinerary

• Day 6: Shkoder- Kruje
• Day 7: Kruje – Tirana (pick up a rental car in Tirana)- Berat
• Day 8: Berat 
• Day 9: Berat- Gjirokaster
• DAY 10: Gjirokaster-Korca
• DAY 11: Korca- Pogradec-Lin
• DAY 12: Lin
• DAY 13: Lin-Pogradec-Tirana

I hope this post had inspired you to visit Albania and will be helpful when planning your Albania itinerary. If you have more questions, please feel free to comment below, and I will get back to you.

Have a great journey to Albania!

More Albania Travel Resources

• Driving in Albania: everything you need to know before renting a car .
• Valbona to Theth hike in Albanian Alps- everything you need to know.
• Find the best things to do in Albania’s capital with my Tirana itinerary for 1 or 2 days.

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Hi! I am a freelance photographer & videographer as well the creator of www.theroadreel.com. Born in Lithuania, and currently residing in the UAE, I have been traveling around the globe independently for over a decade. I created The Road Reel to share my passion for travel and photography through detailed road trips and city itineraries, and hiking guides, along with regular and drone photogragraphy tips.

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Albania Itinerary: Mountains, Beaches & Culture in 10 Days (+ Map)

This 10-day itinerary for Albania will take you from the mountains in the north to the beaches in the south. It will bring you to the country’s highlights and help you plan your trip.

Albania is one of my favourite destinations in Europe. From the Albanian Alps to the Albanian Riviera and everything in between, this diverse country is full of beautiful places to explore.

If you only have 10 days in Albania, I highly recommend renting a car in Tirana for the second part of this itinerary. This will help you save some valuable time.

But without further ado, here’s the perfect 10-day Albania itinerary for first-timers!

Albania Itinerary for 10 Days: Overview

Day 1: Tirana & head to Shkoder Day 2: Komani Lake Ferry (Shkoder to Valbona) Day 3: Valbona to Theth Hike Day 4: Theth Day 5: Theth to Berat Day 6: Berat Day 7: Gjirokaster Day 8: Gjirokaster & the Blue Eye Day 9: Ksamil & Butrint National Park Day 10: Himare & back to Tirana

10 Days in Albania: Day by Day Itinerary

You will find a detailed guide including what to do and how to travel between places below. I started my trip in Albania in the north and then headed to the south, but you can easily turn this around if you want to.

Note that this itinerary is quite packed so that you can see the best of what Albania has to offer in just 10 days. If you would like to take it more slowly, you can always skip your least favourite destination.

Day 1: Tirana & head to Shkoder

Most people will start their Albanian journey in Tirana, the capital, and it’s worth exploring this city for a couple of hours before heading to Shkoder.

Make sure to start early to make the most out of your day, as there are quite some things to see and do in Tirana .

I started my visit at Skanderbeg Square , the city’s main square and visited the beautiful Et’hem Bej Mosque next. Apart from that, I visited the Tirana Pyramid , Namazgjah Mosque and Toptani Castle complex too.

Tirana is also home to the famous Bunk’Art 1 and Bunk’Art 2 museums . These are housed in underground bunkers and will teach you more about Albania’s turbulent history.

It’s good to know that while Bunk’art 1 tends to be most people’s favourite, Bunk’art 2 is a better option if you’re short on time. This museum is located close to Skanderbeg Square and it’s smaller than Bunk’art 1. I visited Bunk’Art 2 and can recommend it to history buffs or anyone who wants to learn more about the country’s history.

🚌 Make sure not to miss the last bus to Shkoder. There’s a bus every 30 minutes and the last one leaves at 5 pm. It takes about 1 hour and 45 minutes to travel between these cities.

🏨 Where to stay in Shkoder

• Budget: Mi Casa es Tu Casa
• Mid-range: Hotel Tradita
• Luxury: Hotel Golden Palace

Day 2: Komani Lake Ferry (Shkoder to Valbona)

Shkoder is the gateway to the Accursed Mountains or Albanian Alps . If you only have 10 days in Albania, it’s better to skip a visit to this city (trust me, there are more interesting ones included in this itinerary) and head straight to Valbona on day two.

The journey from Shkoder to Valbona is a beautiful one. You will have to take the bus to Komani Lake first. It leaves from Shkoder at 6:30 am and will drop you at the lake around 8:30 am. Here, you can take the 9 am ferry on Komani Lake . This is a relaxing 3-hour ride with spectacular landscapes.

The ferry will drop you off in Fierze, a 30-minute drive from Valbona. Usually, you can either take the bus or a taxi here, however, when I arrived in Fierze, the bus wasn’t operating so I had to take a cab for €20 ($21,90).

You should arrive in Valbona around 1 pm, which will give you some time to explore the region in the afternoon. The surroundings are really beautiful and it’s worth going for a little walk.

🏨 Where to stay in Valbona

• Budget: Guest House Hyrmet Demushi
• Mid-range: Mountain Oasis
• Luxury: Valbona Resort & Spa

Tip: I recommend leaving your big backpack in Shkoder while heading to Valbona and Theth. Keep in mind that you will have to carry all of your stuff during the hike from Valbona to Theth on day 3, so it’s a good idea to bring the necessary stuff only.

Day 3: Valbona to Theth hike

The hike from Valbona to Theth was the absolute highlight of my trip to Albania, and if you love the mountains as much as I do, you might just fall in love with it too.

This is a moderate hike that takes an average of 7 to 8 hours and it’s good to know that hiking is the only way to get from Valbona to Theth or the other way around as there’s no road connecting these villages.

The landscapes along the way are truly magnificent and the path is easy to follow. It took me about 9 hours to complete this hike because I stopped a million times to enjoy the scenery and take pictures.

It’s good to know that this hike starts in Rragam and many of Valbona’s hotels are quite far from here, so depending on where you’re staying, you might have to take a taxi to the trailhead.

If hiking is not an option for you, I recommend spending the day in Valbona and heading back to Shkoder on day 4. Theth is an amazing place to visit but the best way to explore it is also by hiking, so I would recommend visiting Shkoder instead.

🏨 Where to stay in Theth

• Budget: Guest House Rrashkadoli
• Mid-range: Guest House Hyrmet Demushi (close to the trailhead)
• Luxury: Vidis Chalet Hotel

Day 4: Theth

Theth is a charming mountain village surrounded by breathtaking scenery. This is one of my favourite destinations in Europe and I would love to visit it again one day.

There are plenty of beautiful places to visit in and around Theth . Apart from its incredibly picturesque church and mysterious lock-in tower , the Grunas Waterfall and the Blue Eye of Theth are worth visiting too.

Another thing I love about Theth is the organic food. Here, meat and dairy products come from local cattle and sheep, while vegetables are grown on the land.

All in all, Theth is the perfect place to unwind, hike and enjoy nature, and if you’re asking me, it cannot miss from any Albania itinerary!

Day 5: Theth to Berat

To see the best of Albania in just 10 days, you will have to spend some time on the road too, and that’s what today is all about.

To get to Berat, you will have to take the mini-bus from Theth to Shkoder first. It leaves every day at 11 am and takes about 1,5 hours to reach Shkoder.

Once you’re in Shkoder, you can catch a bus to Tirana. It leaves every 30 minutes and takes 1 hour and 45 minutes to reach Tirana, so you should arrive here around 3 pm.

I highly recommend renting a car in Tirana for this itinerary, as this will help you save a lot of time. Make sure to book one in advance so that you can simply pick it up once you reach the capital.

Driving from Tirana to Berat takes a little under 2 hours, so you should arrive in this town in the early evening.

🏨 Where to stay in Berat

• Budget: Hostel Mangalem
• Mid-range: Hotel Klea
• Luxury: Hotel Ansel

Day 6: Berat

Often nicknamed the City of a Thousand Windows , Berat is famous for its historic Ottoman architecture. Many of the buildings in this UNESCO World Heritage site date back to the 13th and 14th centuries. There are plenty of things to do in Berat and if you’re a culture, architect or history lover, this is a place you will love!

Apart from visiting Berat’s historical centre full of white houses, Gorica Bridge , St. Michael’s Church and the National Ethnographic Museum are other places that cannot be missed during a visit to this town.

Head to the 13th-century Berat Castle for sunset. Not only will you have a spectacular view of the surroundings from here, but this castle also boasts impressive landmarks including a citadel and church.

Day 7: Gjirokaster

🚗 Gjirokaster is a 2.5-hour drive from Berat, so make sure to leave early so that you will have enough time to explore this beautiful town.

This city’s historic centre is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. With its beautiful Ottoman houses, colourful bazaars and cobblestone streets, Gjirokaster is one of Albania’s most charming cities.

When you finish exploring the historic centre and bazaar (you might find some great Albanian souvenirs here), I recommend visiting Zekate House , a traditional Ottoman house that’s open to visitors.

If you would like to learn more about traditional life in Albania, it’s worth heading to the Ethnographic Museum , which stands on the site where the house of communist dictator Enver Hoxha once stood.

Finally, head to Gjirokaster Castle and its fascinating museum. This castle is perched on top of a hill and it’s one of the largest in the Balkans. In the castle’s museum, you can learn more about the city’s fascinating history.

🏨 Where to stay in Gjirokaster

• Budget: Stone City Hostel
• Mid-range: Yuri Guest House
• Luxury: Hotel Kalemi

Day 8: Gjirokaster & the Blue Eye

Before heading to Albania’s Blue Eye, it’s worth hiking to the Ali Pasha Bridge , which is right outside of Gjirokaster.

This bridge was once part of an aqueduct system commissioned by Ali Pasha of Tepelenëv. It was built at the beginning of the 19th century and before that, the Gjirokaster Castle didn’t have a reliable water source.

The Ali Pasha Bridge is a 30-minute walk from the Gjirokaster Bazar. If you’re short on time, you can park your car near the bridge, though, it’s only a 10-minute hike from the road.

If you didn’t have the time to do everything you wanted yesterday, you can visit more places today.

🚗 Keep in mind that it’s a 50-minute drive to get to the Blue Eye and that you will need about an hour to visit it.

Once you finished visiting Gjirokaster, it’s time to head to the famous Blue Eye near Sarande, which is a 50-minute drive from this city. Albania’s Blue Eye or Syri I Kalter is a water spring that got its name thanks to its beautiful blue colour.

One of the things that makes the Blue Eye so fascinating is that no one knows how deep it is. Divers have attempted to descend into it multiple times to calculate its depth, but they didn’t succeed. The reason is that due to the high water pressure of the spring, you get pushed to the surface immediately when you attempt to jump into it.

It’s good to know that although you can swim in the Blue Eye (and many people do), the water is extremely cold! I dipped my feet in it for a few seconds and had to hurry out.

🚗 After visiting the Blue Eye, it’s time to head to the Albanian Riviera . Ksamil is home to some of Albania’s most beautiful beaches and it’s just a 50-minute drive from the Blue Eye.

🏨 Where to stay in Ksamil

• Budget: Vila Ronaldo
• Mid-range: Marku Palace
• Luxury: Villa White

Day 9: Butrint National Park & Ksamil

Butrint was another one of my favourite places to visit in Albania and if you’re a history buff, this is a place you absolutely cannot miss! This is one of the most important historical landmarks in Europe , after all.

This UNESCO World Heritage site is a 10-minute drive from Ksamil and it once was one of the most important cities in the Roman Empire . Here, you will find ruins that date back to as far as the 4th century BCE.

After being struck by an earthquake in the Middle Ages, this city was abandoned, and it’s one of the most important historical sites in Albania today.

Apart from its magnificent ruins and rich history, something I really love about Butrint is that it’s an archaeological site and nature park at the same time. The park is full of greenery and it’s famous for its immense diversity of flora and fauna.

It’s good to know that it takes 1,5 to 3 hours to visit this park, it all depends on your personal pace.

After all that travelling, it’s nice to spend the rest of the day simply relaxing at the beach. Ksamil’s beach is often called the Maldives of Europe due to its white sand and crystal clear water.

This being said, Ksamil is not a place everyone will like (I actually hated it). If you don’t mind being among other tourists, you will be able to enjoy this beach. If you’re like me, however, and prefer more tranquil and offbeat places, I recommend heading to another beach instead.

What I did when I travelled along the Albanian Riviera was to check the area using Google Maps’ satellite view. This allowed me to find remote beaches where not too many people head to.

Day 10: Beaches & Back to Tirana

On the last day of this 10-day itinerary for Albania, it’s time to head back to Tirana, which is a little under 4 hours from Ksamil. I recommend splitting this journey in two and stopping at one of the beaches near Himare or Vlore.

Although the beaches of Himare and Vlore are beautiful, I wanted to visit a more remote one and hiked to a small, secluded beach that I found while scanning the area using Google Maps’ satellite view.

I recommend checking out the best beaches in Albania or scanning the area with Google Maps like I did to find a beach that suits your personal taste.

🇦🇱   The Travel Resources I use for Albania By purchasing through the following links, you can support me at no additional cost. 💜 🏨   Booking  &  Hostelworld : To find the best hotels, hostels and guesthouses 🚃  Omnio : To book trains and buses in advance 🛫  Skyscanner : To find the cheapest flights to Albania 🚗  Discover Cars : To rent a car at the best rates 🏕  GetYourGuide  &  Viator : To book great tours and activities 💰 Heymondo : One of the best-reviewed travel insurance companies (get 5% off with this link !) 📋 Don’t forget to  check if you need a visa to visit Albania .

Albania Itinerary for 10 Days: Map

Best Time to Visit Albania

The best time to visit Albania is from mid-June to September , as this is when the Valbona Pass is accessible. It’s different every year, but if you visit in early June or October, it might not be possible to hike from Valbona to Theth (which is a highlight on a trip to Albania) because of the snow.

It’s good to know that July and August is peak season in Albania, so there will be more crowds (and accommodation will be more expensive) at this time of the year.

For the best overall conditions, I would recommend visiting Albania during the two last weeks of June or in September. I visited Albania in mid-June and the weather was perfect.

Read more about Albania:

• Is Albania Worth Visiting? 11 Reasons to Visit
• Best Things to Do in Gjirokaster
• Berat Itinerary: 8 Things to Do in One Day
• 9 Epic Things to Do in Theth, Albania
• Valbona to Theth Hike: How to Hike Valbona Pass
• Blue Eye in Albania: Ultimate Guide
• 21 Souvenirs from Albania That Don’t Suck

Pin it for later: Did you find this post helpful? Save it on Pinterest and follow me on Instagram and Facebook for more travel tips and inspiration.

Laura Meyers

Laura Meyers is the founder of Laure Wanders. She was born in Belgium and has been travelling solo for years. She currently spends most of her time between Belgium and South Asia and loves helping other travellers plan their adventures abroad.

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• Attractions

Llogara pass, Albania. Not just a stop!

• Jan 20, 2021

Presenting the Llogara Pass

Driving along the coastal road from Orikum to Dhermi you will pass through Llogara Pass, a spectacular winding road, rising up to 1,027m and overlooking the Ionian coast of the Albanian Riviera. This is the highest point on the main coastal road between Vlore and Sarande. The experience of using this road is very impressive. However, don’t be surprised to see old aged ladies in black carrying heavy loads of wood for the winter, people riding on donkeys, shepherds walking undisturbed with their flocks of sheep, or just cows chilling for the sake of it – all along the main road! Once arriving at your destination, congratulate yourself on becoming a true Albanian driver!

Starting from Konumi, the ascent is 22.8 km long. Over this distance, the elevation gain is 1.013 meters. The average percentage is 4.4 %. The surface of the road is asphalted, and chains or snow tires can be required throughout the year.

Llogara Pass connects the Dukat Valley in the north with the Albanian Riviera on the southern side. The pass is traversed by SH-8 road. It serves as a panoramic venue for exploring the Riviera from above and touching the clouds at the same time. It’s one of the best coastal drives in the world. The shooting of a Top Gear episode showing a breath-taking car pursuit along the winding coastal road, proves this.

Albanian Riviera gained international attention following this shooting of the Top Gear episode, the reconstruction of the coastal road in 2009, DJ Tiesto ‘s concert stop in Dhermi, and The Albanian Riviera was declared as the Top Value Destination in 2012 by Frommer’s.

Llogara Pass

Llogara Pass (Qafa e Llogarasë – in Albanian) is nestled in the middle of the Çika Mountain range which is part of the Llogara National Park. The Çika Mountain range starts at the Karaburun peninsula, and as it’s running south it’s becoming taller and taller. The top peak – Çika reaches 2,044 meters elevation, and it stands a little south of Llogara Pass. This mountain range runs almost for the whole length of the Ionian coast until the city of Sarande.

The Llogara Pass divides the mountains into a western and an eastern range. The western chains are also known as the Acroceraunian Mountains. In some places, the mountains fall directly into the sea. The Mountains have been remarked upon already by ancient authors such as Ptolemy, Strabo, and Pausanias.

Looking down from the Pass to the south along the coast you can admire the white beaches of the Ionian Sea and the village of Dhermi. This part of the country is renowned for the best climate in the whole of Albania. The average January temperature is up to 10 degrees, and the average July temperature equals 25 degrees. The region has about 300 sunny days a year.

To help preserve the forested area in this pass the government declared 2,500 acres (1,010 hectares), between the altitudes of 470 m and 2,010 m above sea level, a national park in 1966. And with good reason! There are so many flora and fauna in this area. You can see forests of pine, fir, and ash for miles. Living in those forests are deer, wild boar, eagles, and woodpeckers, to name a few.

Some history behind Llogara Pas

In 48 BC during the Roman Civil War, Julius Caesar landed with his legions at the nearby beach of Palase. He soon crossed the mountains over at Llogara Pass in a place later named Caesar’s Pass to chase his adversary Pompey.

For centuries, this spectacular mountain range has almost completely isolated this part of the coast from the rest of the country. That’s why the local inhabitants had easier connections by the sea with Corfu and Greece than by land with inland Albania.

The beach of Palase

The beach of Palase , is the first beach, south of the Llogara Pass. Skydivers use the 1.5 km long beach as a landing place, parachuting down from the Pass. It is an impressive sight down there from the beach – the mountain starts at sea level and you can see the road winding its way up – until you lose it in the clouds.

This part of the region has traditional Mediterranean villages, as well as various historic castles and Orthodox churches. Not surprisingly, the scenery varies between mountain passes, white beaches, hidden caves, and marine fauna, citrus and olive plantations.

On top of the Llogara Pass, you can find some free parking space and a few decent restaurants overlooking the truly magnificent scenery.

The drive is definitely worth it. Don’t forget your camera!

I loved this post, about this place. Thanks very much….and I look forward to this trip when safe travels return.

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I hiked this remote mountain pass in Albania and found unspoilt landscapes and soulful hospitality

The Valbona Pass is an accessible (though not easy) hiking route that local tour companies have incorporated into a convenient three-day adventure.

After a four-hour, lung-busting ascent, we climb the last steps up the rocky scree to reach the vertiginous summit of the Valbona Pass.

Surrounding us is the untamed wilderness of the irresistibly-named Accursed Mountains in northern Albania. Ominous storm clouds are gathering between the jagged peaks and ridges in the direction of our descent over the other side.

For nearly half of the 20th century, this brooding landscape was closed off to the world under communist rule. Since opening up again, the region has bewitched hikers and adventurers with its remoteness and quietude.

But beyond that, it remained an off-beat destination in a country too often tainted by stereotypes - until a few years ago.

Albania ’s northern mountain range is now much more on travellers’ radars. It made it into the New York Times’ 52 Destinations for 2024 and budget airlines including Ryanair and Wizz have launched new routes to the country.

For now, it is still a serene spot. But it is at a pivotal point where the influx of tourists seeking its rugged nature and non-commercialised hospitality might be the cause of their disappearance.

For a sustainable , slow trip in these hinterlands, try this three-day Valbona Pass itinerary for a taster of life in the 800,000 km-squared Alps of Albania National Park.

What to do in Albania: How to hike the Valbona Pass

Tourists first need to make their way to the nearest city, Shkoder, and book in for a night.

Arriving through the gritty residential blocks of the outskirts is underwhelming, but get to the city early enough to spend time wandering the pedestrianised central streets with cafe tables spilling onto the pavement.

Booking with one of the many local companies or through your hotel , you can arrange an early pickup from your accommodation the next morning to begin your itinerary.

The first leg of the journey is in a minivan for around one and a half hours to Lake Komani. Here, you board a crowded ferry - grab a waterside seat for the view - and sail for about two and a half hours through a long gorge of emerald water flanked by fierce rock faces.

Upon disembarking at the Fierza ferry stop, you’ll be met by another minivan that takes you the rest of the way to the town of Valbona, the gateway to the mountains.

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You’ll find guesthouses scattered along the snaking road of the village, but try to book closest to the trailhead. Aim to stay in one of the old stone constructions with steep slate roofs and chalet-like simple wooden interiors.

You’ll awake to a breakfast spread of homemade cheese, freshly-picked tomatoes and cucumbers and warm bread that you can enjoy outside with a view of sharp, snow-flecked mountain peaks.

How to hike from Valbona to Theth

The length of your hiking day will vary depending on the location of your accommodation in Valbona and Theth, but the trail is 12 kilometres long and takes between seven and 10 hours.

The steep ascent takes you through a verdant valley of pines and between monolithic rock faces and limestone towers. There are unexpected pit stops along the way in rickety wooden shelters where all provisions arrive by mule or with the hardy owner.

From the spectacular summit, you can gaze across some of the most unspoilt scenery left in Europe.

The descent to the remote village of Theth winds through wildflower-strewn meadows and grassy slopes.

The mountain community is a scattering of stone buildings and barns in a wide green plateau fringed by mountains. You pass fields and pastures bordered by wooden fences with conical piles of hay ready for livestock.

Life revolves around pastoral traditions and soulful hospitality , which both find their roots in the ancient code of the Kanun established by these Highland communities.

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The laws related to blood feuds and revenge killing have mainly been abandoned (though in Theth you can still visit an ancient stone tower with slit windows where intended targets could hide), but the emphasis on hosting travellers and guests perseveres.

In Theth, you find guesthouses and farm stays costing a pittance a night in creaking ancestral homes where owners prepare abundant meals from the products of their fields, cowsheds and beehives.

Wander to a ramshackle bar clinging to a rock face above a nearby gorge, and you’ll likely be offered homemade raki with your morning coffee.

Until a few years ago, hikers made the return trip down the mountain along a potholed track in a jeep that would lurch sickeningly close to the sheer drop into the valley on one side.

Although not a pleasant journey, it was one of the reasons for the serene seclusion of the village. The new paved surface of this road is a sign of wider change. If daytripper tourism begins to boom, will the untouched landscape and the warm, unhurried hospitality survive?

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