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Rebus tours, literary tours, Ian Rankin, Edinburgh

(23/5/2002)

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Undiscovered Scotland

The edinburgh of rankin & rebus.

Edinburgh is home to author Sir Ian Rankin and to his best known creation, Inspector John Rebus. Rebus is the focus of a series of detective novels that have sold millions of copies worldwide in many languages. But the city is not just the backdrop to the Rebus novels, it is also a central character in most of them. Through Rebus many people have come to know Edinburgh less as the beautiful capital of a reborn nation than as a starkly monochrome city of crime, sleaze and overstressed police.

You can experience the Edinburgh of Rankin & Rebus from the gripping pages of the novels, and find out more from the official fan site, linked from this page. But a growing number of people from all corners of the globe are travelling to Edinburgh to see the actual locations from the books for themselves: the pubs, the public buildings, the police station where Rebus works and even the mortuary where autopsies on victims are held.

Judging by worldwide sales and by the thousands of fans who flock to Sir Ian Rankin's book-signings and appearances at events across the world, his fan base extends to millions of readers, many of whom have not yet visited Edinburgh but who are nonetheless fascinated by his depiction of John Rebus, the grumpy, dishevelled, divorced and dysfunctional Edinburgh detective. The character's very name is a giveaway: a rebus is the Latin for a picture puzzle, a mystery that has to be unlocked…

The first Inspector Rebus book was Knots and Crosses, published in 1987, and Sir Ian admits he did not set out to write a series, still less a definitive crime novel. He saw it as a 20th-century reworking of Robert Louis Stevenson's classic The Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde. Stevenson fully recognized the divisions within the Edinburgh of his time. For him it was forever a place of contrasts: rich and poor, good and evil, daytime virtues and nightly lusts, the slums of the Old Town overlooking the surface splendours of the Georgian New Town.

Sir Ian Rankin, like Stevenson a graduate of Edinburgh University, acknowledges not just Stevenson as an influence but also other classic Scottish writers. James Hogg's eerie work Notes and Confessions of a Justified Sinner (1824) is regarded as one of the first psychological thrillers, Conan Doyle's Sherlock Holmes is based on his own teacher, the forensic expert Dr Joseph Bell, who was a formative influence on Doyle as a medical student at the University. Muriel Spark's novel The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie (1961) reveals the divisions within Edinburgh society as seen through the eyes of girls at a private school in the 1930s.

The Rebus books are published in the UK by Orion and by other publishers overseas. They are also available on audio tape and CD. Each novel is a complete story in its own right so you can jump into the series at any stage. But as Rebus himself matures as a character, many prefer to read the books in chronological order. Rankin has also published a number of collections of short stories, some of which also feature John Rebus, along with other books penned under the name Jack Harvey.

Part of the great fascination of the Rebus series is the way Ian Rankin draws on real events or places in weaving his plots. The Falls revolves around some eerie wooden dolls on display in the Museum of Scotland, and links them to legends surrounding Rosslyn Chapel. Set in Darkness involves the building of the Scottish Parliament building. And a more recent novel A Question of Blood mixes a number of real events, including a military helicopter crash similar to a real tragedy on the Mull of Kintyre.

And perhaps the most real of all the many settings in the books is John Rebus's favourite pub, the Oxford Bar. This can be found in a back street in Edinburgh's New Town: and just happens also to be Sir Ian Rankin's favourite pub...

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Rankin's Edinburgh

With our interactive map you can explore Ian Rankin’s Edinburgh from anywhere in the world. Visit some of the key locations found in Ian’s writing and walk in the steps of Rebus as he investigates crimes amongst the streets of his home city.

POINTS OF INTEREST

Click on a location on the map or in the navigation pane below to view an Edinburgh location key to Ian’s books. You can explore each location on Street View as well as discovering in which of Ian’s books the location appears

Rebus lives in the top-floor flat at 17 Arden Street – across the road from Ian’s home while he was writing Knots and Crosses.

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Known to the locals as ‘The Ox’, this small, homely pub represents the hidden Edinburgh of Ian’s books; it’s the perfect drinking spot for Rebus, where he can enjoy a pint and a chat with friends and criminals alike.

Fictional police officers Inspector Rebus and Malcolm Fox – who is an Inspector for the Complaints and Conduct office, the cops that investigate other cops – have gone through this door.

The castle is still a working barracks, and from its battlements you get a fantastic panoramic view of the city. The Naming of the Dead opens with a body found underneath the battlements.

Famously the site on which Greyfriars Bobby, a Skye Terrier, reportedly guarded his master’s grave for 14 years. Rebus muses on the churchyard’s history in The Falls.

So called because it was close to the meat market and used to link down to the slaughter house. The title of Ian’s novel about immigration, asylum seekers, racism and related issues – ‘a market in human flesh where human beings are reduced to a commodity’.

The former headquarters of Lothian and Borders Police until April Fool’s Day 2013, when Scotland’s eight police regions were replaced by a single organisation called Police Scotland.

The Queen’s official residence in Scotland, situated at the end of the Royal Mile. The Queen’s Gallery holds some excellent exhibitions. Doors Open explores the art world through a classic heist story.

Home to the city’s forensic lab.

An alleyway off the Royal Mile that was closed off and built over in 1753. This hidden street spawned myths and urban legends. A body is discovered here in Mortal Causes.

A basement flat on Oxford Terrace was the home of Rebus’ girlfriend Dr Patience Aitken in the early Rebus books. Rebus spends quite a lot of time there in Dead Souls, and comments in The Black Book that living with Patience on Oxford Terrace represents life on ‘the other side of the tracks’.

Devolution and the creation of the Scottish Parliament drove the plot for Set in Darkness, and proved the ideal scenario for Rebus to voice his mistrust of Edinburgh’s political set-up.

Dedicated to the lives and works of Scotland’s greatest literary figures, particularly Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson. The first Rebus story, Knots and Crosses, was inspired in part by Stevenson’s most famous work The Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde.

Stockbridge appears in many of Ian’s novels. In Set in Darkness, Siobhan and Rebus have tea in a café in Raeburn Place. That’s in the days when smoking was allowed . . . In The Falls, Rebus tracks Donald Devlin through the streets of Stockbridge before both tumble into the freezing Water of Leith.

One of Edinburgh’s best-kept secrets; a village of cobbled streets, old restored mills and mews cottages. In Hide and Seek, Rebus confesses he’d like to live here.

The home of Major Weir and his sister, who, despite apparently living lives of extreme piety, confessed to sorcery, bestiality and black magic and were executed for their crimes in 1670. Major Weir appears in the prologue of Dead Souls as a ghostly headless horseman.

Arthur’s Seat is one of seven hills in and around the city; it’s an extinct volcano that last erupted 340 million years ago. In 1836, 17 miniature coffins where found concealed here, which are now on display in the Museum of Scotland, and in part inspired the plot of The Falls.

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REBUS TOURS (Edinburgh) - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go

How a fictional detective became a tour guide for Edinburgh

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The Oxford Bar is a little pub tucked away in a quiet street in Edinburgh, Scotland. In a lot of ways, it's just like a hundred other pubs in town, except for the fact that it's become a must-visit destination for a very specific kind of tourist.

That's because The Oxford Bar is where the fictional detective Inspector Rebus drinks, and where has done so for the past 30 years. Author Ian Rankin's 23rd instalment of the Inspector Rebus series, titled In a House of Lies , has just hit bookstores. Rankin joined Tom Power in the q studio to explain how his flawed and beloved character has become a tour guide for the realities of gritty, complicated Edinburgh. 

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6 Rebus Filming Locations in Scotland

It’s official, Edinburgh’s favourite Inspector is back! Based on the acclaimed novels by Ian Rankin and starring Outlander alum Richard Rankin in the titular role, Rebus is a new gripping crime drama from the BBC. The series follows John Rebus in his younger detective days and the action unfolds against the backdrop of Edinburgh’s dramatic cityscape. Want to enjoy the city without the drama? We’ve got you covered with our list of Rebus filming locations to visit in Edinburgh.  

Rebus will launch on Friday 17 May. All episodes will be available on BBC iPlayer from 6am, with episode one airing on BBC Scotland on Friday 17 May at 10pm and on BBC One on Saturday 18 May at 9:25pm.

Grassmarket and Victoria Street Old Town

Rebus filming on Victoria Terrace

© BBC/Viaplay/Eleventh Hour/Graeme Hunter

The Old Town of Edinburgh is the perfect backdrop for the Rebus series, with atmospheric cobbles, twisting streets and hidden closes. Get close to the action with a visit to the historic Grassmarket area of the city, once home to open-air marketplaces and even public executions. Thankfully things have moved on, and nowadays it’s a bustling spot full of independent shops, cafés and characterful pubs that date back to the 18th century, all with epic views of Edinburgh Castle. Soak up the atmosphere with an evening stroll along Victoria Street, which curves down from the Royal Mile and onto Grassmarket. 

The Mound City centre

New College at the top of The Mound

As backdrops go, The Mound is a pretty spectacular filming location. As its name suggests, The Mound is a steep hill connecting Edinburgh’s Old and New Towns, with incredible views of the National Galleries, Princes Street, Edinburgh Castle and the rest of the city. This filming location reflects the detective’s complex character, as well as the duality of Edinburgh’s shifting landscapes. At the top of The Mound is New College, part of the University of Edinburgh - its gothic architecture is most impactful when lit up at night. If you’re looking for more Scottish culture, at the bottom of The Mound you can find the National Gallery and RSA buildings. They display some of Scotland’s most impressive art, from old masters to cutting-edge contemporary artists.  

National Library of Scotland George IV Bridge

National Library of Scotland

With its bookish origins, it’s no surprise that the new Rebus series features some internal shots of The National Library of Scotland. Centrally located on George IV Bridge off the Royal Mile, the architecture of the building is impressive inside and out. The unfolding corridors and hidden nooks perfectly conjure the mystery and excitement of Rebus's story. The research archive dates back to the 17th century and boasts an incredible collection for visitors to explore, including maps, manuscripts and rare historical documents. Ian Rankin even donated his entire archive to the library! There’s a regular series of events and exhibitions throughout the year, as well as a café to enjoy.  

The Meadows South side of the city

Cherry blossom trees in The Meadows

Eagle-eyed viewers may have spotted The Meadows in the new Rebus series, a beautiful, open green space in the south of the city. In the spring sunshine there’s no better place to bring your copy of Ian Rankin’s original novels and read under the shade of the cherry blossoms, which are in full bloom in April and May. There are a couple of trendy food and coffee trucks nearby to fuel your wanders, or you could explore the nearby neighbourhoods of Bruntsfield and Marchmont if you want to feel like a true Edinburgh local.  

George Heriot’s School Lauriston

Rebus behind the scenes filming at George Heriot's

Edinburgh is well-known for its impressive buildings and academic prowess. These attributes come together at George Heriot’s, the school which Rebus’s daughter Sammy attends in the series. It’s not the first time the school has been associated with fiction; some claim it’s the school that inspired J.K. Rowling to invent Hogwarts! Head to Greyfriars Kirkyard for some of the best views of the school. It was founded in the 1600s, and from the atmospheric graveyard you can marvel at the Renaissance architecture, elaborate turrets and sandstone façade. 

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The Oxford Bar New Town

Rebus being filmed outside the Oxford Bar in New Town

© BBC/Viaplay /Eleventh Hour/Graeme Hunter

After a day spent investigating all these Rebus locations in Edinburgh, you’ll be ready for a rest and a wee tipple! The Oxford Bar in New Town is featured in the series, but its connections with Ian Rankin go back much further. It’s been Ian’s favourite haunt since the 1980s and, being a place where local cops used to drink, he was inspired to make it Rebus’s local as well. Many characters from the pub have been used in Ian Rankin’s fiction and it's not unheard of to see the author himself in there enjoying a pint. 

Don’t just take our word for it, Edinburgh plays a central role in the new Rebus series: 

“Wherever you go in Edinburgh, you get those iconic locations. Anybody who knows the city knows how photogenic it is. It’s beautiful and Gothic. You have the wonderful light on the Firth of Forth and the amazing skies. But it is also this divided city. The rationality of the New Town during the Enlightenment is right next to the medieval Old Town and all that debauchery and vice that went on there. It looks really cinematic and dramatic on film.” 

Gregory Burke, Writer and Executive Producer 

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Inspector Rebus and more! - Rebus Tours

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This Rebus 2 hour walking tour was just wonderful Colin the guide is a passionate Rebus fan and... read more

I’ve been a Rebus fan for many years and came to Edinburgh especially to do the Rebus Tour. So I’m... read more

Inspector Rebus and more!

Absolutely a must if you are an Ian Rankin fan and wonderful fun even if you haven’t read the books. (You will after this tour). Clive is a wonderful storyteller and historian. The world of Rebus mixed with history of Edinburgh is a real treat! Highly recommend this tour.

If you’re a Rebus fan, this is the walk for you. Colin is a real character who is very knowledgable about Edinburgh, Scottish historical literature and of course the life and works of Ian Rankin. Even if you haven’t read any Rebus books (and there were five on our tour who hadn’t!), it’s still a very informative and entertaining walk. But don’t expect to be taken to the popular tourists' spots. This is a tour of the other side of Edinburgh. The one that John Rebus inhabits. That includes the Edinburgh Morgue, local housing estates, cop shops and pubs. Colin’s theatrical narration of excerpts from the John Rebus series were perfectly chosen to illustrate the locations, remind us Rebus fans of what a great writer Ian Rankin is, and perhaps whet the appetite of those non-Rebus readers.

This is hands down the worst tour I’ve ever been on in my life. If you love Rebus or Rankin, stay away. If you like Edinburgh, know Edinburgh, or don’t know Edinburgh, stay away. If you want to hear Japanese people called “Japs”, people who live in council housing mocked, and aomeone read Siobhan’s voice as if they are auditioning for a Monty Python tribute group, this might be the tour for you. I was speaking with a fellow Rankin fan for about 40 minutes after the tour, lamenting that we’d never get that 15 pounds or 2+ hours back. Absolutely insulting tour. Horrible. Stay well away.

Lots of information and a great tour overall. Colin was very personable and made the tour fun and engaging. This tour was especially great if you are a Rebus and/or Rankin fan. I would highly recommend this to everyone!

Thank you Colin! We were a large group from the states, and Colin was professional and personable from the beginning. He helped us book the tour and returned several emails before our trip. The tour went far beyond a “script,” and we all left Edinburgh saying Colin’s tour was the highlight of our stay in Scotland.

Very charming and low key, and good information of local history. Colin is extremely personable and I have no doubt that he would make a reading of the phone book absolutely enthralling.

Rebus Tours

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Edinburgh filming locations for Ian Rankin's BBC series Inspector Rebus

The much-loved Inspector Rebus novels have been transformed into a BBC series, filmed right here in "dark and brooding" Edinburgh and set to premiere on May 17.

• 14:59, 15 MAY 2024

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The iconic Edinburgh tales of Inspector Rebus have been transformed into a BBC series, set to premiere on May 17.

Much of the filming took place here in the capital, with author Ian Rankin serving as executive producer. It follows Detective Sargeant Rebus, played by Outlander star Richard Rankin, as he's drawn into a "violent criminal conflict".

Last year, film crews were seen across the city with Rankin himself sharing snaps on social media. Now, the full list of locations for the series has been released.

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It includes the Grassmarket, Victoria Street, Oxford Bar and the National Library of Scotland.

Ian Rankin, author of the series, commented on the upcoming series and the connection between Rebus and the city he lives in. He said: "Rebus is dark, brooding and slightly dangerous and edgy.

"He’s someone people would like to meet for a short time. The books allow them to meet him for a short time, but I don’t think you’d want to hang out for too long.

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"I mean, if he bumped into me, I’m sure we wouldn’t have much of a conversation before he got bored of me and wandered off. He’d be much more interested in the drink than he would be in the person who was talking to him.

“I think he also feels real to people, partly because he inhabits what is more or less a real city. He drinks in real bars, he worked in a real police station, he lives in a real street.

"You can actually trace his peregrinations around the city. Fans do come to the city looking for Rebus’s Edinburgh, and it’s there waiting for them.”

The top Edinburgh filming locations that appear in Rebus are:

Grassmarket and Victoria Street

The historic area provides a perfect backdrop for the drama, with twisting streets and centuries old cobbles.

Visit Scotland said: "Hidden closes create the perfect backdrop for the gritty mysteries, unravelled by Inspector Rebus. This location ties seamlessly to Rebus's character, reflecting the complex layers of Edinburgh's history and its present-day urban life."

Connecting the Old and New Towns with views across the city, the Mound perfectly captured the capital's rich history.

Visit Scotland said: "This filming location resonates deeply with Rebus by mirroring the detective's own complex character and his perpetual navigation of Edinburgh's shifting landscapes, both physically and metaphorically. "

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George Heriot's School

Known for its Renaissance architecture, this structure remains an active school so can't be visited - though is impressive from the outside.

In the series, it features prominently as the school attended by Rebus's daughter, Sammy.

The Oxford Bar

Where the main character is most known to spend his time, it's also where Rankin's former flatmate worker part-time as a barman.

Rankin said the pub's "small and secluded nature perfectly mirrors the hidden, Jekyll and Hyde aspect of contemporary Edinburgh, often overlooked by tourists."

Visit Scotland added: "A must-visit for Rebus enthusiasts, stepping inside allows one to envision Rebus himself, seated in a corner, deep in thought as he tackles one of his cases."

Other locations features in the series include the National Museum of Scotland and the Real Mary King's Close.

Rebus launches on May 17, all episodes will be on BBC iPlayer from 6am.

You can find out more about filming locations in Scotland on the Visit Scotland site here .

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Ian Rankin to lead literary tour of Edinburgh for competition winner

The winner will also tour mary king’s close and enjoy a champagne lunch on board the royal yacht britannia., article bookmarked.

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Literature enthusiasts have been called on to enter a competition that could see them win a writer’s tour of Edinburgh with award-winning author Ian Rankin

The prize package for the winner and a plus one also includes return travel to Edinburgh, two nights’ accommodation at YOTEL, a champagne lunch on board the Royal Yacht Britannia and a tour and tasting at Holyrood Distillery.

Rankin, author of the Inspector Rebus novels and winner of several national and international awards, will use the tour to tell stories of writers inspired by the Scottish capital including Robert Louis Stevenson, Sir Walter Scott, Irvine Welsh Alexander McCall Smith and JK Rowling.

The “author’s eye-view” tour will include visits to some of Edinburgh’s literary landmarks, including the Scott Monument in Princes Street which is dedicated to Edinburgh-born author Sir Walter.

Rankin said: “Like all the great novels, Edinburgh has a captivating story to tell that’s packed with intriguing characters, fascinating locations and many twists and turns along the way.

“It’s hard not to be inspired by a city that has such natural and architectural beauty, rich history and diverse character.”

After the tour, the winner and their plus one will join Rankin for a drink in the Oxford Bar, which is a familiar spot to Inspector Rebus fans.

They will also experience a tour of Edinburgh’s 17th century Mary King’s Close and dinner at Fazenda restaurant.

The City of Edinburgh Council leader Adam McVey said: “Edinburgh was Unesco’s first City of Literature and it’s not surprising the capital has provided the inspiration to so many writers and been home to such a diverse range of authors.”

He said he hopes the competition, which has been launched through travel group Forever Edinburgh’s The Story Never Ends campaign, will inspire residents and visitors to venture to the capital.

The council’s deputy leader Cammy Day added: “Edinburgh has something for everyone at all times of the year, and it’s a major attraction for book lovers.

“Whether you’re a Harry Potter fan or love Inspector Rebus, Edinburgh offers a wealth of literary connections spanning eras, genres and tastes.”

The competition can be entered by anyone over the age of 18 who lives in the UK and can be accessed at https://edinburgh.org/ian-rankin.

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Rebustours – Hidden Edinburgh

World exclusive reading from the new Rebus book Rather be the Devil, which will be published in November 2016 included!

Rebustours, one of Edinburgh’s most popular walking tours with past sell-out success, offer its visitors an insight into Scottish History, and Edinburgh as depicted in the acclaimed Rebus series by Ian Rankin. And they begin tomorrow!

Participants can expect atmospheric walks through Detective Inspector John Rebus’ Edinburgh, accompanied by readings from the novels. It is not necessary to have read a Rebus book, as the tours feature the historic and cultural background to Edinburgh. The tours are led by actor and local historian Colin Brown.

Rebustours are the only Officially Sanctioned walking talks since 2000.

Rebustours questions:

Where is the City Mortuary and who are Gates and Curt? How are Hogg’s “Justified Sinner” and Rankin’s “Dead Souls” linked with Salisbury Crags? Which school did Sir Walter Scott attend and who are in his debt? When and where was the Flodden Wall built? Where is St. Leonards Police Station?

Rebustours facts:

Rebustours have a 4 Star rating from VisitScotland’s Quality Assurance Scheme. Ian Rankin refers to Rebustours on his official website. Rebustours have sold-out at the Fringe for the past 12 consecutive years.

Quotes from Rebustours participants:

“Colin Brown’s readings were brilliant and it was fantastic to get a real context to the books I’ve read so many times. I’m looking forward to revisiting them with fresh eyes and a new understanding of Rebus’ world.”

“The tour was full of fascinating Edinburgh history – my partner is a big Rebus fan, and I was amazed by how much Colin was able to tell us about this ancient City along the way. I’d recommend the tours to anyone with an interest in old Edinburgh.”

“Colin was fascinating… I loved seeing Siobhan’s car outside the “Cop Shop”, the genesis of “Knots and Crosses”, the Rebus pubs and the tales of old Edinburgh.”

Further information- contact Colin Brown on [email protected] 0131 553 7473 or on the Rebustours.com website. Page 199 in Fringe brochure.

Fringe dates :–Friday 5th – Saturday 27th, every day except Sundays. The Royal Oak, 1 Infirmary Street, Southbridge. Rebus – Hidden Edinburgh 12p.m. – 2p.m. (2hrs) £10.00 (£9.00).

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