incidents of travel in central america

Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas and Yucatan

GENERAL VIEW OF PALENQUE

INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL

CENTRAL AMERICA, CHIAPAS ,

AND YUCATAN.

BY THE LATE JOHN LLOYD STEPHENS.

REVISED FROM THE LATEST AMERICAN EDITION, WITH ADDITIONS, BY FREDERICK CATHERWOOD.

LONDON: ARTHUR HALL, VIRTUE & CO 23 PATERNOSTER ROW 1854.

LONDON: R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.

In preparing the present Work for publication in a cheap form, and which, although it has been favourably received by the British Public, has never before been printed in England, I have not omitted any of the Illustrations which appear in the American Edition, and have given some additional ones, which are now published for the first time.

The Illustrations are all re-engraved from the Original Drawings and Sketches, and the greatest attention has been paid to make them accurate. The reader will thus have the entire discoveries and antiquarian researches as at first presented, and the material wherewith to form a correct judgment of their character and importance.

I have found it necessary to curtail a portion of the narrative written by Mr. Stephens, with a view of condensing the whole into a single volume; but those parts only are omitted which ​ appeared to me of less interest, as not being connected with the original, and, I may say, only object of our journey, an Exploration of the Ruined Cities of Central America, the appointment of Mr. Stephens as Special Confidential Agent from the United States to Central America, having taken place but a very short time previous to our leaving, and after all our arrangements were completed.

Should this volume be favourably received, it will be followed by a continuation of our travels in Yucatan in the years 1841, 1842.

F. C atherwood.

PORTRAIT OF MR. STEPHENS.

(From a Daguerrotype.)

BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICE.

A short biographical notice of my late fellow-traveller may not be uninteresting to the readers of the present volume. Mr. John Lloyd Stephens, the second son of Mr. Benjamin Stephens, was born at Shrewsbury in the State of New Jersey, in the United States of America, in the year 1805. Until the age of thirteen, Mr. Stephens studied at the school of Mr. Nelson, who, although blind, is described as an admirable reader of the classics. For four years Mr. Stephens pursued his studies at Columbia College, New York, afterwards entered a law school, and when of age was admitted to the practice of the legal profession.

In the year 1834, the state of Mr. Stephens's health rendering it necessary for him to travel abroad, he visited many of the countries of Europe, extending his tour to Egypt and Syria. On his return to New York, he published Incidents of Trayel in Egypt, Arabia, Petræs, and the Holy Land," followed very shortly by "Incidents of Travel in Greece, Turkey, Russia, and Poland."

These works were received with great favour, and were very extensively read in the United States; and in this country have been several times reprinted, establishing Mr. Stephens's reputation as an excellent and agreeable writer of Travel and Narrative.

In 1839 Mr. Stephens and myself made arrangements for a tour in Central America, with a view to the examination of the remains of ancient art said to exist in the dense forests of those tropical regions.

Our preparations were scarcely completed, when Mr. Leggett, who was on the point of setting out as United States Minister for that country, died very suddenly, and upon application for it, Mr. Stephens immediately received the appointment. We had some misgivings lest it should interfere with our antiquarian pursuits, but Mr. Stephens contrived, as the reader will find, to combine the chase after a Government with a successful hunt for ruined cities. Our journey occupied about seven or eight months of the years 1839 and 1840. ​ The results of our researches were published in 1841. In the autumn of that year, we resumed our travels, and explored the Peninsula of Yucatan, and in 1843 a second work was brought out. After our last visit to Yucatan, we were urged to pursue the researches so successfully carried on in Central America by a journey to Peru, and Mr. Prescott, the admirable historian of that country, was of opinion that much useful information would thereby have been elicited. Mr. Stephens was, however, disinclined to undertake so distant an expedition, and was confirmed in this resolve by my being obliged to absent myself for several years on a professional engagement in the West Indies; he therefore remained in New York, and undertook the formation of the first American Ocean Steam Navigation Company, which in the end has proved highly successful. He next visited the Isthmus of Panama, with the view of forming a Railway across the narrow but difficult neck of land that separates the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.

A Company was formed, of which he subsequently became the President, and a concession for the line was obtained from the Government of New Grenada. The necessary surveys were made, and the works began in 1850. [ 1 ] Having completed my engagement in the West Indies, I rejoined Mr. Stephens to assist in his great enterprise of spanning the Isthmus with a road of iron, and took charge of the works while he made a second journey to Santa Fé de Bogotá, the capital of New Grenada. We expected to meet in a few months, but Mr. Stephens's health, already much shattered by exposure in tropical regions, and mine still more so by a seven months' residence in one of the most unhealthy climates in the world, separated us for nearly two years; Mr. Stephens going to New York to recruit his strength, and I to California for the same object. Subsequently Mr. Stephens returned to the Isthmus, and by long and incautious exposure in that deadly climate in forwarding the interests of the Railway Company, brought on a disease which terminated fatally in the autumn of 1852.

As his fellow-traveller and intimate friend, I may be permitted to bear testimony to his kindly disposition, and the many excellent qualities of head and heart which endeared him to a large circle of friends and connexions.

Departure—The Voyage—Arrival at Balize—Mixing of Colours—Government House—Colonel M'Donald—Origin of Baliza—Negro Schools—Scene in a Court-Room—Law without Lawyers—The Barracks—Excursion in a Pit-Pan—A Beginning of Honours—Honours accumulating—Departure from Balize—Sweets of Office

CHAPTER II.

Everyone for himself—Travellers' Tricks—Puenta Gorda—A Visit to the Carib Indians—A Carib Crone—A Baptism—Rio Dolce—Beautiful Scenery—Yzabal—Reception of the Padre—A Barber in Office—A Band of "Invincibles"—Parties in Central America—A Compatriot—A Grave in a Foreign Land—Preparations for the Passage of "the Mountain"—A Road not Macadamized—Perils by the Way—A well-spiced Lunch—The Mountain Passed

CHAPTER III.

A Canonigo—How to roast a Fowl—Extempore Shoemaking—Motagua River—Beautiful Scene—Crossing the River—The Luxury of Water—Primitive Costumes—How to make Tortillas—Costly Timber—Gualan—Oppressive Heat—Shock of an Earthquake—A Stroll through the Town—A troublesome Muleteer—A Lawsuit—Important Negotiations—A Modern Bona Dea—How to gain a Husband—A Kingdom of Flora—Zacapa—Making free with a Host

CHAPTER IV.

Purchasing a Bridle—A School and its Regulations—Conversation with an Indian—Chiquimula—A Church in Ruins—A Veteran of the French Empire—St. Stephanos—A Land of Mountains—An Affair with a Muleteer—A deserted Village—A rude Assault—Arrest—Imprisonment Release

An Indian Funeral—Copan River—Woman's Kindness—Hacienda of San Antonio—Strange Customs—A Mountain of Aloes—The State of Honduras—Village of Copan—An ungracious Host—Wall of Copan—History of Copan—First View of the Ruins—Vain Speculations—Applications for Medicine—Search for an Abode—A sick Woman—Plagues of a Muleteer—An unpleasant Situation—A Thunder-storm—Thoughts of buying Copan.

CHAPTER VI.

How to begin—Commencement of Explorations—Interest created by these Ruins—Visit from the Alcalde—Vexatious Suspicions—A welcome Visitor—Letter from General Cascara—Buying a City—Visit from Don Gregorio's Family—Distribution of Medicines.

CHAPTER VII.

Survey of the Ruins—Account of them by Huarres and by Colonel Galindo—Their Situation—Their Extent—Plan of Survey—Pyramidal Structures—Rows of Death's Heads—Remarkable Portrait—"Idols"—Character of the Engravings—Ranges of Terraces—A Portrait—Courtyards—Curious Altar—Tablets of Hieroglyphics—Gigantic Headstone Quarries—More Applicants for Medicine—"Idols" and Altars—Buried Image—Material of the Statues—Idols originally painted—Circular Altar—Antiquity of Copan.

CHAPTER VIII.

Separation—An Adventure—Copan River—Don Clementino—A Wedding—A Supper—A Wedding Ball—Buying a Mule—The Sierra— View from the top—Esquipulas—The Cura—Hospitable Reception—Church of Esquipulas—Responsibility of the Cura—Mountain of Quezaltapeque—An narrow Escape—San Jacinto—Reception by the Padre—A Village Fête—An Ambuscade—Motagua River—Village of Santa Rosalia—A Death Scene.

CHAPTER IX.

Chimalapa—The Cabildo—A Scene of Revelry—Guastatoya—A Hunt for Robbers—Approach to Guatimala—Beautiful Scenery—Volcanoes of Agua and Fuego—First View of the City—Entry into the City—First Impressions—The Diplomatic Residence—Parties in Central America—Murder of Vice-President Flores—Political State of Guatimala—An embarrassing Situation—The Constituent Assembly—Military Police.

Hacienda of Naranjo—Lazoing— Diplomatic Correspondence—Formulas—Féte of La Concepcion—Taking the Black Veil—A Countrywoman—Renouncing the World—Fireworks, etc.—Procession in Honour of the Virgin—Another Exhibition of Fireworks—A fiery Bull—Insolent Soldiery

CHAPTER XI.

The Provisor—News of the Day, how published in Guatimala—Visit to the Convent of La Concepcion—The Farewell of the Nun—Carrera—Sketch of his Life— The Cholera— Insurrections—Carrera heads the Insurgents—His Appearances in Guatimala—Capture of the City—Carrera triumphant—Arrival of Morazan—Hostilities—Pursuit of Carrera—His Defeat—He is again uppermost—Interview with Carrera—His Character.

CHAPTER XII.

Party to Mixco—A Scene of pleasure—Procession in Honour fo the Patron Saint of Mixco—Fireworks—A Bombardment—Smoking Cigars—A Night-Brawl—Suffering and Sorrow—A Cockfight—A Walk in the Suburbs—Sunday Amusement—Return to the City. 153

CHAPTER XIII.

Excursion to La Antigua and the Pacific Ocean— San Lucas—Mountain Scenery—El Rio Pensativo—La Antigua— Account of its Destruction—An Octogenarian—The Cathedral— San Juan Obispo—Santa Maria—Volcano de Agua—Ascent of the Mountain—The Crater—A lofty Meeting-place—The Descent—Return to La Antigua—Cultivation of Cochineal—Classic Ground—Ciudad Vieja—Its Foundation—Visit from Indians—Departure from Ciudad Vieja—First Sight of the Pacific—Alotenango—Volcan de Fuego—Escuintla—Sunset Scene—Masagua—Port of Istapa—Arrival at the Pacific. 161

CHAPTER XIV.

The Return—Hunt for a Mule—Overo—Masagua—Escuintla—Falls of San Pedro Martyr—Michatoyal River—Village of San Pedro—A Major-Domo—San Cristoval—Amatitan—A roving American—Entry into Guatimala—Letter from Mr. Catherwood—Christmas Eve —Arrival of Mr. Catherwood—Plaza de Toros—A Bullfight—The Theatre—Official Business—The Aristocracy of Guatimala—State of the country—New Year's Day—Ferocity of Party. 178

CHAPTER XV.

Hunt for a Government—Diplomatic Difficulties—Departure from Guatimala—Lake of Amatitan—Attack of Fever and Ague—Overo—Istapa—A French Merchant Ship—Port of Acajutla—Illness—Zonzonate—The Government found—Visit to the Volcano of Izalco—Course of the Eruptions—Descent from the Volcano 189

CHAPTER XVI.

Sickness and Mutiny—Illness of Captain Jay— Critical Situation—Rough Nursing— Dolphins—Succession of Volcanoes—Gulf of Nicoya—Harbour of Caldera—Another Patient— Hacienda of San Felipe—Mountain of Aguacate—"Zillenthal Patent Self-Acting Cold Amalganation Machine"—Gold Mines—View from the Mountain-top 199

CHAPTER XVII.

La Garita—Alajuela—A friendly People—Heredia—Rio Segundo—Coffee Plantations of San Jose—The Sacrament for the Dying—A happy Meeting—Travelling Embarrassments— Quarters in a Convent—Señor Carillo, Chief of State—Vicissitudes of Fortune—Visit to Cartago—Tres Rios—An unexpected Meeting—Ascent of the Volcano of Cartago—The Crater—View of the two Seas—Descent—Stroll through Cartago—A Burial— Another Attack of Fever and Ague—A Vagabond—Cultivation of Coffee 208

CHAPTER XVIII.

Departure for Guatimala—Esparza—Town of Costa Rica—The Barranca—Wild Scenery—Hacienda of Aranjuez—River Lagartos—Cerros of Collito—Herds of Deer—Santa Rosa—Don Juan José Bonilla—An Earthquake—A Cattle Farm—Bagases—Guanacaste—An agreeable Welcome—Belle of Guanacaste—Pleasant Lodgings—Cordilleras—Volcanoes of Rincon and Orosi—Hacienda of San Teresa—Sunset View—The Pacific again. 220

CHAPTER XIX.

Visit to the Volcano of Masaya—Village of Masaya—Lake of Masaya—Nindiri—Ascent of the Volcano—Account of it—The Crater—Descent into it—Volcano of Nindiri—Ignorance of the People concerning Objects of Interest—Return to Masaya—Another Countryman—Managua—Lake of Managua—Fishing—Beautiful Scenery—Mateares—Questa del Relox—Nagarotis—Crosses—A Gamekeeper—Pueblo Nuevo. 231

CHAPTER XX.

Beantiftul Plain—Leon—Stroll through the Town—Baneful Effects of Party Spirit—Scenes of horror—Unpleasant Intelligence—Journey continued—A fastidious Beggar—Chinandega—Gulf of Conchagua—Visit to Realejo—Cotton Factory—Harbour of Realejo—El Viejo—Port of Naguiscolo—Importance of a Passport—Embarking Mules—A Bungo—Volcano of Coseguina—Eruption of 1835—La Union. 239

CHAPTER XXI.

Journey to San Salvador—A new Companion—San Alejo—War Alarms—State of San Salvador—River Lempa—San Vicente—Volcano of San Vicente—Thermal Springs—Cojutepeque—Arrival at San Salvador—Prejudice against Foreigners—Contributions—Press-Gangs—Vice-President Vigil—Taking of San Miguel and San Vicente—Rumours of a March upon San Salvador—Departure from San Salvador—La Barranca de Guaramal—Volcano of Izalco—Depredations of Rascon—Zonzonate—News from Guatimala—Journey continued—Aguisalco—Apeneca—Mountain of Aguachapa—Subterranean Fires—Aguachapa—Defeat of Morazan—Confusion and Terror. 249

CHAPTER XXII.

Approach of Carrera’s Forces—Terror of the Inhabitants—Their Flight—Surrender of the Town—Ferocity of the Soldiery—A Bulletin—Diplomacy—A Passport—A Breakfast—An Alarm—The Widow Padilla—An Attack—Defeat of Carrera's Forces—The Town taken by General Morazán—His Entry—The Widow's Son—Visit to General Morazán—His Appearance, Character, etc.—Plans deranged. 263

CHAPTER XXIII.

Visit from General Morazan—End of his Career—Procuring a Guide—Departure for Guatimala—Fright of the People—The Rio Paz—Hacienda of Pamita—A fortunate Escape- Hacienda of San José—An awkward Predicament—A kind Host—Rancho of Hoctilla—Oratorio and Leon—Rio de los Esclavos—The Village—Approach to Guatimala—Arrival at Guatimala—A Sketch of the Wars—Defeat of Morazan—Scene of Massacre. 275

CHAPTER XXIV.

Ruins of Quirigua—Visit to them—Los Amates—Pyramidal Structure—A colossal Head—An Altar—A Collection of Monuments—Statues—Character of the Ruins—A lost City—Purchasing a ruined City. 291

CHAPTER XXV.

Reception at the Government House—The Captain in Trouble—A Change of Character—Arrangements for Journey to Palenque—Arrest of the Captain—His Release—Dangers in Prospect—Fearful State of the Country—Last Interview with Carrera—Departure from Guatimala—A Don Quixote—Ciudad Vieja—Plain of El Vieja—Volcanoes, Plains, and Villages—San Andres Isapa—Dangerous Road—A Molino—Journey continued—Barrancas—Tecpan Guatimala—A noble Church—A sacred Stone—The ancient City—Description of the Ruins—A Molino—Another Earthquake—Patzum— A Ravine—Fortifications—Los Altos—Godines—Losing a good Friend—Magnificent Scenery—San Antonio—Lake of Atitan. 298

CHAPTER XXVI.

Lake of Atitan—Conjectures as to its Origin, &c.—A Sail on the Lake—A dangerous Situation—A lofty Mountain Range—Ascent of the Mountains—Commanding View—Beautiful Plain— An elevated Village—Ride along the Lake—Solola—Visit to Santa Cruz del Quiché—Scenery on the Road—Barrancas—San Thomas—Whipping Posts—Plain of Quiché—The Village—Ruins of Quiché—Its History—Desolate Scene—A facetious Cura—Description of the Ruins— Plan—The Royal Palace—The Place of Sacrifice—An Image—Two Heads, &c.—Destruction of the Palace recent— An Arch. 319

CHAPTER XXVII.

Interior of a Convent—Royal Bird of Quiché—Indian Languages—The Lord's Prayer in the Quiché Language—Numerals in the same—Church of Quiché—Indian Superstitions— Another lost City—Tierra de Guerra—The Aborigines—Their Conversion to Christianity—They were never conquered—A living City—Indian Tradition respecting this City—Probably has never been visited by the Whites—Presents a noble Field for future Enterprise—Departure—San Pedro—Virtue of a Passport—A difficult Ascent—Mountain Scenery—Totonicapan—An excellent Dinner—A Country of Aloes—"River of Blood"—Arrival at Quezaltenango. 339

Quezaltenango—Account of it—Conversion of the Inhabitants to Christianity—Appearance of the City—The Convent—Insurrection—Carrera’s March from Quezaltenango—His Treatment of the Inhabitants—Preparations for Holy Week—The Church—A Procession—Good Friday—Celebration of the Resurrection—Opening Ceremony—The Crucifixion—A Sermon—Descent from the Cross—Grand Procession—Church of Calvario—The case of the Cura—Warm Springs of Almolonga. 348

CHAPTER XXIX.

Journey continued—A Mountain Plain—Lost Guides—A trying Moment—Aguas Callentes—A magnificent View—Gold Ore—San Sebastiano—Gueguetenango—Sierra Madre—A huge Skeleton—The Ruins—Pyramidal Structures—A Vault—Mounds—A welcome Addition—Interior of a Mound—Vases— Ascent of the Sierra Madre—Buena Vista—The Descent—Todos Santos—San Martin—San Andres Petapan—A Forest on Fire—Suffering of the Mules from Swarms of Flies—San Antonio Guista. 360

CHAPTER XXX.

Comfortable Lodging—Journey continued—Stony road—Beautiful River—Suspension Bridge—The Dolores—Rio Lagertero—Enthusiasm brought down—Another Bridge—Entry into Mexico—A Bath—A solitary Church—A Scene of Barrenness—Zapoaluta—Comitan—Another Countryman—Mere Perplexities—Official Courtesy—Trade of Comitan—Smuggling—Scarcity of Soap. 373

CHAPTER XXXI.

Parting—Sotana—A Millionaire—Ocosingo—Ruins—Beginning of the Rainy Season—A Female Guide—Arrival at the Ruins—Stone Figures—Pyramidal Structures—An Arch—A Stucco Ornament—A Wooden Lintel—A curious Cave—Buildings, &c.—A Causeway—More Ruins—Journey to Palenque—Rio Grande—Cascades— Succession of Villages—A Maniac-The Yahalon—Tumbala—A wild Place—A Scene of grandeur and sublimity—Indian Carriers—A steep Mountain—San Pedro 382

CHAPTER XXXII.

A wild Country—Ascent of a Mountain—Ride in a Silla—A precarious Situation—The Descent-Rancho of Nopa—Attacks of Mosquitoes—Approach to Palenque—Pasture Grounds—Village of Palenque—A crusty Official—A courteous Reception—Scarcity of Provisions—Sunday—Cholera—The Conversion, Apostasy, and Recovery of the Indians—River Chacamal—The Caribs—Ruins of Palenque. 404

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Preparations for visiting the Ruins—A Turn out—Departure—The Road—Rivers Micel and Otula—Arrival at the Ruins—The Palace—A Feu-de-jois—Quarters in the Palace— inscriptions by former Visitors—The Fate of Beanham—Discovery of the Ruins of Palenque—Visit of Del Rio—Expedition of Dupaix—Drawings of the present Work—First Dinner at the Ruins—Mammoth Fireflies—Sleeping Apartments—Extent of the Ruins—Obstacles to Exploration—Suffering from Mosquitoes. 404

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Precautions against the Attacks of Mosquitoes—Mode of life at Palenque—Description of the Palace—Piers—Hieroglyphics—Figures—Doorways—Corridors—Courtyards—A wooden Relic—Stone Steps—Towers—Tablets—Stucco Ornaments, &c. &c.—The Royal Chapel—Explorations—An Alarm—Insects—Effect of Insect Stings—Return to the Village of Palenque. 417

CHAPTER XXXV.

A Voice from the Ruins—Buying Bread—Arrival of Padres—Cura of Palenque—Card Playing—Sunday—Mass—A Dinner Party—Mementoes of Heme—Dinner Customs—Return to the Ruins—A marked Change—Terrific Thunder—A Whirlwind—A Scene of the sublime and terrible. 438

CHAPTER XXXV I.

Plan of the Ruins—Pyramidal Structure—A Building—Stucco Ornaments—Human Figures—Tablets—Remarkable Hieroglyphs—Range of Pillars—Stone Terrace—Another Building—A large Tablet—A Cross—Conjectures in regard to this Cross—Beautiful Sculpture—A Platform—Curious Devices—A Statue—Another Pyramidal Structure surmounted by a Building—Corridors—A curious Bas-relief—Stone Tablets, with Figures in Bas-relief—Tablets and Figures—The Oratorio—More Pyramidal Structures and Buildings—Extent of the Ruins—These Ruins the Remains of a polished and peculiar People—Antiquity of Palenque. 447

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Departure from the Ruins—Bad Road—An Accident—Arrival at the Village—A Funeral Procession—Negotiations for purchasing Palenque—Making Casts—Final Departure from Palenque—Beautiful Plain—Hanging Birds'-nests—A Sitio—Adventure with a monstrous Ape—Hospitality of Padres—Las Playas—A Tempest—Mosquitoes—A youthful Merchant—Alligators—Another Funeral—Disgusting Ceremonials. 475

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

Embarkation—An inundated Plain—Rio Chico—The Usumasinta—Rio Palisada—Yucatan—More Revolutions—Vespers—Embarkation for the Laguna—Shooting Alligators—Tremendous Storm—Boca Chico—Lake of Terminos—A Calm, succeeded by a Tempest—Arrival at the Laguna… 486

CHAPTER XXXIX.

Laguna—Journey to Merida—Sisal—A new Mode of Conveyance—Village of Hunucama—Arrival at Merida—Aspect of the City—Féte of Corpus Domini—The Cathedral—The Procession—Beauty and Simplicity of the Indian Women—Palace of the Bishop—The Theatre—Journey to Uxmal—Hacienda of Vayalquex—Value of Water—Condition of the Indians in Yucatan—A peculiar kind of Coach—Hacienda of Mucuyché—A beautiful Grotto. 497

CHAPTER XL.

Journey resumed—Arrival at Uxmal—Hacienda of Uxmal—Major-Domos—Adventures of a young Spaniard—Visit to the Ruins of Uxmal—First Sight of the Ruins—Character of the Indians—Details of Hacienda Livt—A delicate Case—Illness of Mr. Catherwood—Breaking up. 509

CHAPTER XLI.

Ruins of Uxmal—A lofty Building—Magnificent View from Its Doorway—Peculiar sculptured Ornaments—Another Building, called by the Indians the House of the Dwarf—An Indian Legend—The House of the Nuns—The House of Turtles—The House of Pigeons—The Guard-house—Absence of Water—The House of the Governor—Terraces— Wooden Lintels—Details of the House of the Governor—Doorways—Corridors—A Beam of Wood, inscribed with Hieroglyphics—Sculptured Stones, &c. 515

CHAPTER XLII.

Exploration finished—Who built these ruined Cities?—Opinion of Dupaix—These Ruins bear no resemblance to the Architecture of Greece and Rome—Nothing like them in Europe—Do not resemble the known Works of Japan and China—Neither those of Hindu—No excavated Temples found—The Pyramids of Egypt, in their original state, do not resemble what are called the Pyramids of America—The Temples of Egypt not like those of America—Sculpture not the same as that of Egypt—Probable Antiquity of these Ruins—Accounts of the Spanish Historians—These Cities probably built by the Races inhabiting the country at the time of the Conquest—These Races not yet extinct. 527

CHAPTER XLIII.

Journey to Merida—Village of Moona—A Pond of Water, a Curiosity—Aboula—Indian Runners—Merida—Departure—Hunucama—Siege of Campeachy—Embarkation for Havana— Incidents of the Passage—Fourth of July at Sea—Shark-fishing—Getting lost at Sea—Relieved by the Helen Maria —Passage to New York —Arrival—Conclusion. 542

LIST OF PLATES.

AND DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.

Map of Journey in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan

• ↑ It is confidently expected that the Panama railway will be completed by the end of 1855, and will become the favourite route to Australia, as well as to California.

This work is in the public domain in the United States because it was published before January 1, 1929.

This work may be in the public domain in countries and areas with longer native copyright terms that apply the rule of the shorter term to foreign works .

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Incidents of travel in Central America, Chiapas and Yucatan.

By john lloyd stephens.

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An instant best-seller when first published in 1841, Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan by John Lloyd Stephens, with illustrations by Frederick Catherwood, continues to draw readers who want to see the ruins of Copan, Quirigua, Palenque, and Uxmal as this American lawyer and British artist first saw them on muleback more than 150 years ago. Although Stephens and Catherwood traveled without maps into the wilds of a region gripped by civil war, their detailed descriptions and drawings of the great "lost" civilization gave birth to Maya archaeology and led many others to follow in their footsteps.

This new edition brings the best of both Stephens's narrative and Catherwood's drawings into a single volume with an added selection of photographs - many never before published - that expand a reader's view of the Maya ruins, the cities and scenes along the journey, and the native peoples whose cultures endure today. The illustrations include nineteenth-century scenes by the renowned photographer Eadweard Muybridge, portraits of Guatemalan Indians from the Smithsonian's Emilio Herbruger collection, and Osbert Salvin's early photos of Copan. More recent photographs of Guatemala by Jacques and Parney VanKirk and of the Lacandon in Mexico by Gertrude Duby Blom capture the timeless nature of the lands of the Maya that persists into the twentieth century.

Now enhanced with historical and modern photographs, this new, one-volume edition of Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan is organized for the traveler by place and omits descriptions of Stephens's voyages to and from the region and his short trips to Costa Rica and Nicaragua, as well as some long historical digressions and anecdotes. It will remain a classic of travel literature and Maya archaeology.

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Travel advisory january 2, 2024, colombia - level 3: reconsider travel.

Reissued with updates to the country summary.

Reconsider travel due to  crime  and  terrorism . Exercise increased caution due to civil unrest  and  kidnapping . Some areas have increased risk. Read the entire Travel Advisory.

Do Not Travel to:

• Arauca, Cauca (excluding Popayán), and Norte de Santander departments due to crime and terrorism.
• The Colombia-Venezuela border region due to crime, kidnapping, and risk of detention when crossing into Venezuela from Colombia.  

Country Summary: Violent crime, such as homicide, assault, and armed robbery, is widespread. Organized criminal activities, such as extortion, robbery, and kidnapping, are common in some areas.

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U.S. direct-hire government employees must adhere to the noted restrictions:

• They are not permitted to travel by road between most cities.
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Read the  country information page  for additional information on travel to Colombia.

If you decide to travel to Colombia:

• Avoid protest areas and crowds.
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• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP)  to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
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• Review the  Country Security Report  for Colombia.
• Prepare a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the  Traveler’s Checklist .

Arauca, Cauca, and Norte de Santander Departments – Level 4: Do Not Travel

Violent crime, including armed robbery and homicide, is widespread. Terrorist groups are active in some parts.

The U.S. government has limited ability to provide emergency services to U.S. citizens as U.S. government-personnel travel to these areas is severely restricted due to security concerns.

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U.S. citizens are advised not to travel to the border of Colombia and Venezuela. U.S. citizens are at risk of detention when crossing into Venezuela.

The Colombia-Venezuela border is not clearly marked, and U.S. citizens should not go near the border due to the risk of crossing into Venezuela accidentally.

U.S. citizens attempting to enter Venezuela without a visa have been charged with terrorism and other serious crimes and detained for long periods. For more information, see the Venezuela Travel Advisory.

Visit our website for  Travel to High-Risk Areas .

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Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas and Yucatan Paperback – March 7, 2010

• Print length 522 pages
• Language English
• Publisher Nabu Press
• Publication date March 7, 2010
• Dimensions 7.44 x 1.05 x 9.69 inches
• ISBN-10 1146742088
• ISBN-13 978-1146742085
• See all details

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Product details

• Publisher ‏ : ‎ Nabu Press (March 7, 2010)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Paperback ‏ : ‎ 522 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1146742088
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1146742085
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 2.03 pounds
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 7.44 x 1.05 x 9.69 inches

About the author

John lloyd stephens.

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Incidents of travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan

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"Should this volume be favorably received, it will be followed by a continuation of our travels in Yucatan in the years 1841, 1842." Cf. p. iv.

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